I Bought an XS! (76 XS650 by the new guy..)

[59Tebo]

Hi Greg! Welcome to the party! Your bike appears to be in pretty good shape, parts-swapping not withstanding...
Yes, more ergonomic bars can be had, but if you want to keep it to a "budget" (most everyone else's "budget" went out the window LOOOONG ago) start by looking under the "Tech" tab, Maintenance and General Troubleshooting for the "Buying guide-Getting to know your bike" (among TONS of others) for priceless information. IMO, it's too close to original, and in too good a shape to start chopping into little pieces. Make it a 'survivor' and ride & enjoy it!

 

[member3480]

I chop everything but with that bike I would put it back all stock . I guess I missed out on this one HAHA didn't see it listed
You need anything there are plenty of good guys on here with tons of experience or you can contact me direct at DADDYGCYCLES@YAHOO.COM
Have fun and KEEP CHOPPIN in your case NO!!!! LOL
Rich

 

[peanut]

Welcome greg thats a good lookin bike, you rescued it just in time by the looks of it.
Good to hear that you're not intending to hack it as it looks largely original. Cafe sounds like a great idea , as Jim says you can keep it largely original and everything can be reversed if you decide to sell it or restore it

Some great advice and information on here already .
My advice would be to make it mechanically safe and road legal ,get the engine going and ride it for a bit before making any hard decisions about what to do with it. These bikes can very quickly consume many hundreds of pounds on just very basic stuff like oil seals bearings, gasket sets ,tyres , filters ,cables etc .

Once its running you can enjoy riding it whilst you plan what to do with the bike and start collecting the bits you'll need.
Keep us posted buddy

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Yes, there's been some parts swapping going on, but that's not uncommon. Just make sure your carb set is a '76-'77 one before you start buying parts for it. There were 4 different sets of BS38s used on the 650 over the years and that means 4 different needles. You need the one that matches your carb set. Here's a spec chart .....

Hey, wow thanks! I’ll swing down today if I can and take a hard look at the carbs and see what’s going on, still having trouble finding a needle for it no matter what. I have seen that they sell upgraded carbs for it, might look into that, but I’d really like to get the mike is dialed in first so I know what this thing runs like. My only hope is that the cam chain tensioner guide has life left in it. I’d be sad to have to rip it apart before riding it first.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Welcome greg thats a good lookin bike, you rescued it just in time by the looks of it.
Good to hear that you're not intending to hack it as it looks largely original. Cafe sounds like a great idea , as Jim says you can keep it largely original and everything can be reversed if you decide to sell it or restore it

Some great advice and information on here already .
My advice would be to make it mechanically safe and road legal ,get the engine going and ride it for a bit before making any hard decisions about what to do with it. These bikes can very quickly consume many hundreds of pounds on just very basic stuff like oil seals bearings, gasket sets ,tyres , filters ,cables etc .

Once its running you can enjoy riding it whilst you plan what to do with the bike and start collecting the bits you'll need.
Keep us posted buddy

Sadly, it will need the basics. I’m guessing chain and sprockets, threes for sure, carb work, and I had to buy a new battery. I need to create a starter button for it, and I’ll need to find how to wire up the horn, and rebuild the signal relay. It also needs a front brake system rebuild, and maybe a new disc. All just due to age, and to be expected. I’m hoping to have it riding by spring, it’s way too cold in my dads shed for me to put too much time into it right now. For now I’m just saving my money for when I’m ready to get it all done at the same time.

 

[ThatXS650Guy]

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome. You have a good base to do a rolling restoration.
If the tank is still solid you can probably save it using some of the methods (electrolysis, rust remover, MSR, etc.) described in the forum. For the carbs you send them to Rick at Oldskoolcarbs and he will have them looking and working like new for a great price.

 

[member28833]

Perhaps that bike is a 77 or so with 76 body tins ?
Vin# help him ? Are the carbs linked ?

 

[lakeview]

With any luck, you may be able to simply dismantle the master cylinder and caliper, clean them up, replace the line with stainless from BangGood and be done. Rotors seldom need replacing even if there is some minor scoring. Items like this and the carbs can be removed from the bike quickly and brought into the warmth for quality workbench time. Just take lots of pictures for yourself to record where things were. None of us ever expect to forget details, but we do.
Looks like you have original grips on it!

 

[5twins]

Yes, when you go look at it in the shed, take some more close-up pics of various areas. Show us the front brake, carbs (sides and bottoms), gauge cluster, etc. As mentioned, the whole front end appears to be off a later Special model. That probably includes the ignition switch which means the key won't match the other locks on the bike anymore. Originally one key fit them all. Fork lock, gas cap, seat, and ignition all used the same key.

 

[grizld1]

Post when you confirm the carb set, I may have a needle for you.

 

[JRay77]

Yes, there's been some parts swapping going on, but that's not uncommon. Just make sure your carb set is a '76-'77 one before you start buying parts for it. There were 4 different sets of BS38s used on the 650 over the years and that means 4 different needles. You need the one that matches your carb set. Here's a spec chart .....

Follow this advice! I had some wrong needles and jets in one.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Perhaps that bike is a 77 or so with 76 body tins ?
Vin# help him ? Are the carbs linked ?

Vin number matches a 76. Engine has same vin so that’s a relief. Vin# is 447 211613.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Post when you confirm the carb set, I may have a needle for you.

Will the carbs actually have the size on them? It’ll be cast into the carb body right? That’s how my IT400 was. I think it ran 38mm mikunis also, except it was not cv carb. Just throttle cable controlled slide. These are much different!

 

[Jim]

Read this article. First link is for the CV carb guide (incidentally... written by 5t and grizld1). Read that guide and you'll be able to figure out what carbs you have.

 

[650Skull]

Your bike has BS38 Carbs.........All xs650's from 70 - 79 have BS38's and from 80-84 have BS34's. The main visual difference is the 38's have an alloy cap......

Carbs changed every 2 years, the jetting and needles and needle jets changed and are a set, (look at the chart 5twins posted), and in 76/77 carbs they were linked as were the 78/79 carbs.

Need to take off the air-box and have al ook at the inlet. 78/79
76/77..........................................78/79

 

[peanut]

you should find this thread helpful.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/bs38-swopping-needle-jets-and-jet-needles.51676/

 

[650Skull]

Here is a break down on the front end.........because the 35mm front forks swap would also include the 35mm triple tree then there is a good chance the factory head stock bearings have been changed. This is a usual upgrade to any bike because the factory bearings are usually oval-ed and need replacing, this is done with a set of roller bearings. To check if this has been done the crown, off the top of the triple tree needs to be removed and the lock nuts loosened enough to check the bearing.

You need to be careful when loosening the lock nuts and lifting the cover because if the factory bearings haven't been replaced they can easily end up all over the garage floor......
Pics from Goran Peasson's Photobucket album..... Well worth a look around
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/GoranXS650/library/?sort=4&page=1
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/GoranXS650/library/XS650 Tinnis Project/Steering Bearings?sort=4&page=1



Tapered roller Bearings.....The bearing seat sits above the neck when fully seated.





Pics of an 80 and later gauge cluster...... 76 Gauge cluster. 76 was a one year only cluster. Quite rare
.............

76C 34mm forks, front wheel, Guard, Rotor and Caliper. Note the different caliper and rotor. This is why 5twins asked for a pic of this side to make sure the PO has swapped the 35mm rotor and caliper as well


77-84 35mm forks, Rotor and Caliper. This is from a 79 Standard but the forks are the same as yours


80G35mm front end with the same fork headlight bracket, Gauge cluster, and handlebars as your 76C


On your bike the Wheel from the 76 will swap straight into the later 35mm forks. The rotor and caliper has to be swapped in as a pair because the rotor has an off set and the early 34mm fork caliper won't bolt onto the 35mm forks

 

[Mailman]

Here is a break down on the front end.........because the 35mm front forks swap would also include the 35mm triple tree then there is a good chance the factory head stock bearings have been changed. This is a usual upgrade to any bike because the factory bearings are usually oval-ed and need replacing, this is done with a set of roller bearings. To check if this has been done the crown, off the top of the triple tree needs to be removed and the lock nuts loosened enough to check the bearing.

You need to be careful when loosening the lock nuts and lifting the cover because if the factory bearings haven't been replaced they can easily end up all over the garage floor......
Pics from Goran Peasson's Photobucket album..... Well worth a look around
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/GoranXS650/library/?sort=4&page=1
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/GoranXS650/library/XS650 Tinnis Project/Steering Bearings?sort=4&page=1

View attachment 129696

Tapered roller Bearings.....The bearing seat sits above the neck when fully seated.
View attachment 129694 View attachment 129695




Pics of an 80 and later gauge cluster...... 76 Gauge cluster. 76 was a one year only cluster. Quite rare
View attachment 129692 .............View attachment 129693

76C 34mm forks, front wheel, Guard, Rotor and Caliper. Note the different caliper and rotor. This is why 5twins asked for a pic of this side to make sure the PO has swapped the 35mm rotor and caliper as well
View attachment 129697

77-84 35mm forks, Rotor and Caliper. This is from a 79 Standard but the forks are the same as yours
View attachment 129698

80G35mm front end with the same fork headlight bracket, Gauge cluster, and handlebars as your 76C
View attachment 129699

On your bike the Wheel from the 76 will swap straight into the later 35mm forks. The rotor and caliper has to be swapped in as a pair because the rotor has an off set and the early 34mm fork caliper won't bolt onto the 35mm forks

That is an excellent and informative explanation. Very helpful!

 

[G_YamTech_314]

That is an excellent and informative explanation. Very helpful!

It sure is. I noticed the front caliper today at work (we were super slow... first snowfall of the year and everyone bunkers down for 3”...) sadly, I couldn’t go down to take pics because a 30 minute drive on the sheet of ice would surely have taken me at least an hour.

I am really excited, because not only do I graduate motorcycle tech school tomorrow, but I also have time (hopefully) to take pics and gut the carbs to check jet sizes, and needles and aaaaaaall that fun stuff. I’m almost certain I’ll go there to find the original ‘76 carbs. That’s what I’m hoping at least. I will take measurement pics with vernier calipers of the forks as well. The front fender is badly damaged anyways, so it may need to be replaced...

What is the liklihood of me finding all original 1976 parts for my newly acquired machine?

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Think of Mikes as a store of last resort. Unfortunately, the parts quality is iffy. You can still get a lot of OEM Yamaha parts here at Partzilla.

To revisit this comment a bit... As far as quality goes for the needle, the only problems I could run into would be what? Unsmooth finish? Wrong dimensions? Just weak metal?