I did notice that. Someone had those in wrong as well. Fixed what I could, the 5th long one will have to wait til I hear it run haha. Thanks for the heads up though.
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I Bought an XS! (76 XS650 by the new guy..)
- Thread starter G_YamTech_314
- Start date
Not sure where 5twins gets his hardware, but I use Bolt Depot. They're dirt cheap and ship fast.
Here's a screenshot of a recent order.....
40 stainless 5mm allens for five and a half bucks. At my local hardware store, they're 59 cents apiece.
100 stainless 5mm washers... a buck 77. 30 cents apiece at the hardware store.
And the quality is top notch.
Polishing works most of the time. If it's a bike I'm gonna flip, I'll try that first. If I'm fixing up a keeper, I spring for the new ones.
Yes, good fitting screwdrivers are a must for jet removal. The jets and the screwdriver slots in them are metric so it's hard to find any American screwdrivers that fit well. That's why I've taken to custom grinding 1/4" insert bits for a perfect fit .....
To fit down in the threaded drain plug hole, you may need to grind the sides of the bit a little too. A 2" long bit works best but I think the normal 1" long ones will work too.
Rebuild kits aren't recommended. The '76-'77 kits in particular are pretty bad. They come with the wrong jet sizes. Also, the included float needle and seat assemblies are hit and miss. Sometimes they work, sometimes they leak right out of the box. Genuine replacements from Yamaha are best, and not that expensive. But, I wouldn't buy anything just yet until you try out what you've got. I've still got the original float needle and seat assemblies in my '78 carbs and they're still working fine. I'm also still using the original float bowl gaskets, and they're still fine too.
To fit down in the threaded drain plug hole, you may need to grind the sides of the bit a little too. A 2" long bit works best but I think the normal 1" long ones will work too.
Rebuild kits aren't recommended. The '76-'77 kits in particular are pretty bad. They come with the wrong jet sizes. Also, the included float needle and seat assemblies are hit and miss. Sometimes they work, sometimes they leak right out of the box. Genuine replacements from Yamaha are best, and not that expensive. But, I wouldn't buy anything just yet until you try out what you've got. I've still got the original float needle and seat assemblies in my '78 carbs and they're still working fine. I'm also still using the original float bowl gaskets, and they're still fine too.
Rebuild kits aren't recommended. The '76-'77 kits in particular are pretty bad. They come with the wrong jet sizes. Also, the included float needle and seat assemblies are hit and miss. Sometimes they work, sometimes they leak right out of the box. Genuine replacements from Yamaha are best, and not that expensive. But, I wouldn't buy anything just yet until you try out what you've got. I've still got the original float needle and seat assemblies in my '78 carbs and they're still working fine. I'm also still using the original float bowl gaskets, and they're still fine too.[/QUOTE]
That being said, will the dried diaphragm still be alright, or do you think it’s gonna cause me trouble? I know better than to get carb cleaner anywhere near it, but in the event that it fails, where can I look for replacements? Usually they’re part of the slide itself, looks to be the case with this one as well...
I’ll need to do some work on the tank, and the gas cap needs replaced. There’s a ton of rust, and I wanna keep it obviously. Gonna look at the electrolysis section today, I’m just ready to make some progress!!!
That being said, will the dried diaphragm still be alright, or do you think it’s gonna cause me trouble? I know better than to get carb cleaner anywhere near it, but in the event that it fails, where can I look for replacements? Usually they’re part of the slide itself, looks to be the case with this one as well...
I’ll need to do some work on the tank, and the gas cap needs replaced. There’s a ton of rust, and I wanna keep it obviously. Gonna look at the electrolysis section today, I’m just ready to make some progress!!!
If you want some fast progress, use muriatic acid. If you go to Robins thread (rip buddy) and start reading at comment 222, you'll see the before and after pics of 30 minutes with the acid. Be sure and read the cautions I put in there... it's nasty stuff.
The slide/diaphragm assembly may be OK, you'll just have to assemble and test it, give it the drop test. Yes, replacements are usually sold as a complete assembly and not cheap. There are a couple of cheaper diaphragm only replacements but as far as I'm concerned, the jury is still out on them.
Drop test?
Apparently they won’t be an issue! They drop almost zero, so they should be fine. Gonna do a full carb cleaning tonight. Is it recommended that I keep them both plated together? They’re easy to sync right? If I do a cleaning I wanna make them like new... easier said than done but I can get new hoses and stuff for them, so is it recommended to do every nook and cranny I can clean, inside and out?
Hi Greg and welcome,
amazed that this thread got to 4 pages between my site visits.
Congrats on your graduation.
Note that the cost of a full "back to new" resto on your bike will about equal your student debt load.
Making it OK to ride is way less expensive because elbow grease don't cost money.
About Yamahas, lots of parts swap between different years and models, just like LEGO.
Watch those crosspoint screw heads! They ain't Phillips heads, they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) heads. You gotta use JIS drivers on them or they'll crater out for sure.
Many XS650 owners habitually replace stock JIS-head fasteners with Allen bolts instead.
About your XS650.
Lose the dork bars! They are an ergonomic disaster whose best use is to be part of a windchime.
Keep the later front end, it's a definite upgrade.
Replace the fabric brake lines. They only have a 5-year service life and I betcha yours came with the bike.
Stainless lines are way better anyway, their extra bulge resistance is a true bonus.
The stock m/c piston diameter is sized to operate the dual calipers that the rest of the world's XS650s came with.
Replace the stocker with one that has the 11mm or 12mm piston diameter that's appropriate to the North American XS650's single caliper.
If you drill the bejazus out of the brake disk it'll clean itself up with use over time.
Or save the effort of drilling the disk's super-tough alloy steel by swapping it for an XS11 slotted rotor.
Note that you can choose to keep the stock m/c and add a leftside caliper and a second disk.
Depends on what used parts you can find, whether you prefer the dual disk look and if you care
about the considerable increase in unsprung weight.
amazed that this thread got to 4 pages between my site visits.
Congrats on your graduation.
Note that the cost of a full "back to new" resto on your bike will about equal your student debt load.
Making it OK to ride is way less expensive because elbow grease don't cost money.
About Yamahas, lots of parts swap between different years and models, just like LEGO.
Watch those crosspoint screw heads! They ain't Phillips heads, they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) heads. You gotta use JIS drivers on them or they'll crater out for sure.
Many XS650 owners habitually replace stock JIS-head fasteners with Allen bolts instead.
About your XS650.
Lose the dork bars! They are an ergonomic disaster whose best use is to be part of a windchime.
Keep the later front end, it's a definite upgrade.
Replace the fabric brake lines. They only have a 5-year service life and I betcha yours came with the bike.
Stainless lines are way better anyway, their extra bulge resistance is a true bonus.
The stock m/c piston diameter is sized to operate the dual calipers that the rest of the world's XS650s came with.
Replace the stocker with one that has the 11mm or 12mm piston diameter that's appropriate to the North American XS650's single caliper.
If you drill the bejazus out of the brake disk it'll clean itself up with use over time.
Or save the effort of drilling the disk's super-tough alloy steel by swapping it for an XS11 slotted rotor.
Note that you can choose to keep the stock m/c and add a leftside caliper and a second disk.
Depends on what used parts you can find, whether you prefer the dual disk look and if you care
about the considerable increase in unsprung weight.
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If you mean separate them from the angle bracket that holds them together as a bank, no, that's not necessary unless you're replacing the butterfly shaft seals. But I'd hold off on doing those for now. The ones in there may still be OK. They hold up better in the cooler, wetter northern climes as compared to like if you lived in Arizona where it's hot and dry.
To do a proper cleaning, you'll need compressed air to blow through the tiny orifices. Yes, scrub everything down inside and out to get it as clean as you can. I start with something mild like kerosene, only resorting to the carb cleaner for stubborn spots the mild stuff won't clean. If I put carb cleaner through the passageways, I flush them afterwards with mild stuff to get any carb cleaner residue out.
There's only one little o-ring in your carb set, on the needle jet. It may or may not need replacing. Check to see if the needle jet is tight in the carb body. If it's loose, it needs a new o-ring.
To do a proper cleaning, you'll need compressed air to blow through the tiny orifices. Yes, scrub everything down inside and out to get it as clean as you can. I start with something mild like kerosene, only resorting to the carb cleaner for stubborn spots the mild stuff won't clean. If I put carb cleaner through the passageways, I flush them afterwards with mild stuff to get any carb cleaner residue out.
There's only one little o-ring in your carb set, on the needle jet. It may or may not need replacing. Check to see if the needle jet is tight in the carb body. If it's loose, it needs a new o-ring.
Ahem... (clears throat like instructors do....) I gave ya a link to the carb guide. It should be called the carb bible. Read it!! backwards and forwards. We'll have a test tomorrow....
Sorry, Greg, I looked through my salvage carb parts stash and couldn't come up with a 4M1 needle. Hope you found a source.
Lol... Yes sir... I’ll be sure to have studied it. After a few hours, and more beers than hours, I’ve definitely got two VERY CLEAN carbs. They’re 99% together. Now... where does that pesky paper thin washer go..? Sneak peek of the cleaned carbs...Ahem... (clears throat like instructors do....) I gave ya a link to the carb guide. It should be called the carb bible. Read it!! backwards and forwards. We'll have a test tomorrow....
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It actually still had the needle in it! Whoever had the bike before me put the plastic retainer ring in wrong (before the needle and clip) and the needle was wedged (undamaged) into the slide. All is well, carbs are clean, and we will try to start the bike tomorrow afternoon, as long as I can rig up the ignition switch to make the starter button work...
You mean the needle jet that seats in the removable needle seat?? It must be built in under the spring and rod. Didnt see an O ring. Did a pretty thorough cleaning. Even split it from the Angle iron out of excitement (before reading this) the carbs were positively atrocious and I’m honestly quite happy I split them to do a cleaning, they’re happy now, and so am I. I’m more familiar with them, and ready to see if they run tomorrow...
This made me laugh, because I agree 100% the disc has seen better days, and I do plan on switching to dual disc if the wheel permits. I already need new brake hoses, they’re shot, and I believe the reservoir is as well. Seeing as how it doesn’t even have a master cylinder in it, I’m just gonna say screw it and replace the whole front brake system. I’m gonna make it rideable first, then we will see what kind of imagination I have. Given that I haven’t even heard the bike run yet, I think I’ll spare the fun of getting ahead of myself until later down the road... that being said, I now have IMMACULATE carbs (in my opinion) and I’m ready for valve clearance tomorrow, and an ignition switch wiring fiasco. Wish me lunch... it’s an absolute cluster-fluff.
Looks like a bowl drain plug washer...
Pretty sure it was a spacer for the choke actuator... I checked every washer on these things, had both bowl drain plug washers, and it fit perfectly between the spacer, and the choke lever. All is good... now we just wait for video footage tomorrow of the (hopeful) start up... if I’m wrong about washer placement, I’ll gladly eat my hat...
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