Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration

[Mailman]

THE SEARCH FOR FACTORY REFLECTORS

My bike came with mis matched front reflectors. Not even just the reflectors , but the chrome shrouds they attach to were mismatched. The DPO must’ve somehow smashed one of the originals.

So I put on a search for a matching pair of originals, I didn’t know for sure which was correct and which was the wrong one. First I tried Gary, but he didn’t have any to spare, ( he did offer to loan me a set though, he really is a nice guy ).

Then I found a set on eBay that came off of a TX750, they were the right look, the right maker, but there were no measurements in the ad and when I got them, they were way too big.

So back to EBay I go, this time I found a set from a dismantled XS2. The real deal, but rough. I will have to work my magic on them.

This photo shows them all. The original mis matched on top. The TX750 reflectors in the middle. And the new XS2 set on the bottom. The photo is something of an optical illusion, the bottom set is exactly like the top right one.

And here again are the new ones.

A lot of work for something most people wouldn’t look twice at. But it’s all the small things that matter. ( At least to me).

 

[kshansen]

I just noticed Saturday while looking for the key for the steering lock that I do have both the front and rear reflectors from the 1972 I parts out. Not sure how good they are but will try to dig them out in the morning and have a good look at them. If they are better than what you have you can have them for the shipping cost.

 

[Jim]

The collared nut sets your bearing drag. I usually set just a tad more drag than I want on new bearings 'cause they'll loosen up in short order. Leave the cinch bolt (and everything above it) loose until you get the forks, front wheel and fender installed. I usually save the three cinch bolts (the two fork bolts) 'till last on tightening sequence.

 

[Mailman]

I just noticed Saturday while looking for the key for the steering lock that I do have both the front and rear reflectors from the 1972 I parts out. Not sure how good they are but will try to dig them out in the morning and have a good look at them. If they are better than what you have you can have them for the shipping cost.

Thanks Ken,
That’s very kind of you.

The collared nut sets your bearing drag. I usually set just a tad more drag than I want on new bearings 'cause they'll loosen up in short order. Leave the cinch bolt (and everything above it) loose until you get the forks, front wheel and fender installed. I usually save the three cinch bolts (the two fork bolts) 'till last on tightening sequence.

Yeah, that sounds like a plan Jim. Thanks!

 

[Superjet]

Nice Mailman! I will be adding a grease fitting to my steering neck too. Thanks for posting that!

 

[Mailman]

Nice Mailman! I will be adding a grease fitting to my steering neck too. Thanks for posting that!

Thanks! But I can’t claim that idea. 5Twins has been promoting that idea for years, I learned that from him!

 

[MaxPete]

Following with interest - this is going along very nicely!

One aside: I use the steering lock on Lucille (‘76 XS650C) nearly every time I ride her. The lock works perfectly and provides (at least in my warped mind) a tiny measure of security for my precious ride.

Pete

 

[mrtwowheel]

Another way...…...with a drilled hole in the front rotor, if you have a front rotor, stick a padlock in the hole.

Scott

 

[5twins]

Just a little note about the grease fitting in the neck if you have a fork lock in the neck too - you have to plug the bottom of the neck tube or the grease you pump into the neck will just fall out the bottom. An old wine bottle cork does the trick.

When setting the steering head bearing tension, sometimes when you tighten that very top nut, it applies more pressure to the notched ring and bearings and makes them a bit tighter than you set them at. You kind of have to play around with the setting and experiment so that the tension is still good once everything is tightened down.

 

[cra-z1]

The collar on the right with the gray rubber piece is the correct one for the XS2. There is a sequence to the front end triple trees. I can dig it out for you and post tomorrow.

 

[Mailman]

The collar on the right with the gray rubber piece is the correct one for the XS2. There is a sequence to the front end triple trees. I can dig it out for you and post tomorrow.

That’d be great thanks! I have been looking through my Yamaha manuals. Is this it?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Bob, you might find some useful front-end info in this thread:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs1b-front-upgrade-winter-project.43795/

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Just a little note about the grease fitting in the neck if you have a fork lock in the neck too - you have to plug the bottom of the neck tube or the grease you pump into the neck will just fall out the bottom. An old wine bottle cork does the trick...

5T, the steering damper shaft will plug the bottom hole, but the upper hole could allow grease to escape, unless the rubber compression washer under the damper knob is a good fit. Not sure what to say about the splined damper nut, I suppose that grease could wick thru the splines, and get into the friction disc...

 

[Mailman]

Thanks 2M, I’ll give that a read.

You know it didn’t occur to me until later the the difference in design on the early bikes with
Steering dampers might not take too well to having the damper components greased up!
Haha!
Not to mention all the potential escape points for the grease.
Oh well.

 

[5twins]

Yes, I didn't even think about that friction steering damper. Maybe filling the neck with grease isn't such a good idea, lol. I know that on my '78, having the neck full of grease makes it constantly ooze out of the bottom bearing. I think the reason for that may be there isn't that extra grease seal on that bearing like the All Balls set comes with. That bearing set is just the plain one that MikesXS sells. The All Balls set I put in the '83 hasn't leaked any grease out the bottom at all yet, and it's been in there since last spring. But I think something else that's helping with that is the "grease saver" tube I installed on the neck. There's not a big pile of grease in there sitting on top of the bearing .....

 

[gggGary]

When setting the steering head bearing tension, sometimes when you tighten that very top nut, it applies more pressure to the notched ring and bearings and makes them a bit tighter than you set them at. You kind of have to play around with the setting and experiment so that the tension is still good once everything is tightened down.

Yes even if the lower nut doesn't turn, tightening affects bearing tension. Later Yamahas use a rubber washer between the nuts and lock them together with a long fingered washer, just snug the top nut, align the spanner slots, the washer fingers slide in. The top triple bolt locks the top nut against the bottom of the triple holding them both from turning. I've seriously considered changing my XS's to this system. Will probably do at least one during a fork swap this spring.
It will require some sort of shim to retain stock fork ear tension as the upper triple will sit slightly higher.

 

[kshansen]

Another way...…...with a drilled hole in the front rotor, if you have a front rotor, stick a padlock in the hole.

Scott

Just don't forget to remove the lock and try to drive off! Not saying who might have done that one but it took a bit of time with a borrowed hacksaw to cut through the hoop on the lock. One good thing, other than it not being a hardened steel hoop, the bike had a sidecar so it did not fall over on the dummy!

 

[cra-z1]

Well the major point I see and remember on the fork install is you need to tightem the upper cap bolt first which locks them in place on the upper triple tree. You dont want to lock the bottom triple tree and then possibly stress that cast aluminum upper tree by tightening those tube caps. So after you get your bearings adjusted this is what i do. I tighten the lower tree bolts so that the tube will slid without binding. I install the upper triple clamp and tighten the steering stem nut just tight enough but will allow the upper triple clamp to rotate. Then I slide the legs up and thread the cap into the leg (dont forget to install your signal mounts if your using them). Snug each of them up evenly and then torque to spec. You may need to use a strap wrench to hold the inner tube from turning. Once the upper caps are tight I torque the steering stem nut, I then tap the top of the tube caps with a rubber mallet to relieve any stress then i torque lower triple tree bolts. By following these steps the forks should be aligned without any binding.

 

[Mailman]

Well the major point I see and remember on the fork install is you need to tightem the upper cap bolt first which locks them in place on the upper triple tree. You dont want to lock the bottom triple tree and then possibly stress that cast aluminum upper tree by tightening those tube caps. So after you get your bearings adjusted this is what i do. I tighten the lower tree bolts so that the tube will slid without binding. I install the upper triple clamp and tighten the steering stem nut just tight enough but will allow the upper triple clamp to rotate. Then I slide the legs up and thread the cap into the leg (dont forget to install your signal mounts if your using them). Snug each of them up evenly and then torque to spec. You may need to use a strap wrench to hold the inner tube from turning. Once the upper caps are tight I torque the steering stem nut, I then tap the top of the tube caps with a rubber mallet to relieve any stress then i torque lower triple tree bolts. By following these steps the forks should be aligned without any binding.

Thanks for the detailed response, I appreciate it!

Bob, you might find some useful front-end info in this thread:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs1b-front-upgrade-winter-project.43795/

2M thanks a bunch for that link, there was all kinds of useful info in there beyond what I’m facing right now.

Progress is stopped for the moment while I take care of a couple issues. I have to get my reflectors in order to mount, and I need to decide if I am going to mount my turn signals in their stock location or move them to the side of the headlight. I kinda think I’d like to relocate them, but I’m not sure what all that entails.

 

[cra-z1]

In my opinion I would not put a zerk fitting in the neck. The idea is a good one and I have done this on my 85 Venture Royal. The difference is that I rode the Venture a lot and the removal of the fairing and all the parts was a pain. You will not be riding this bike as much let alone in the rain or other types of weather condition. Use a good quality grease and you wont need to re-grease fpr a long time. As for the turn signal relocation it is easy. You should already have all the parts. You just remove that outer cap on each side of the headlight and replace it with the turn signal. Dont install the mounts at the fork tube caps. Keep all your parts to convert it back to stock if you want later. I did it because those mounts tend to break due to the vibration of the bike and i like the looks. Im not sure why Yamaha did it that way. Here you can see how simple it is.