1980 xs650special
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Anybody ever used the sync gauges offered thru mikes? Give me any revues ya got
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Mikes sync gauge
- Thread starter 1980 xs650special
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1980 xs650special;
That would be a big waste of $65.00!
Make your own "U-tube" manometer. 22 feet of 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD clear plastic tubing. Use any liquid you like...................red colour is easy to see. Cost less than $8.00 and is much more accurate than 2 gauges.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37
That would be a big waste of $65.00!
Make your own "U-tube" manometer. 22 feet of 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD clear plastic tubing. Use any liquid you like...................red colour is easy to see. Cost less than $8.00 and is much more accurate than 2 gauges.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
i thought I could get by using two vaccuum gauges, but one jumps around sooo much, its near impossible. make a cheap manometer from a yard stick, and tubimg. alot of guys here have used it with much success.
The trick in using a vacuum gauge is constrict the tubing with a clamp or something until the needle doesn't jump around. A vacuum petcock has that built it, a small opening like a jet after where the vacuum line attaches. I used to wonder how the petcock diaphragm could stand that pulsing, but it never sees it.
Mcnabb;
I have never used one on a 4 cylinder bike. However, it should work.
I suspect you would use it on cylinders 1 and 2 first, then 2 and 3, then 3 and 4, maybe 1 and 4 as a final check. The sequence might depend on how the 4 individual throttle shafts are adjusted.
No additional tubing..................this device only compares the pressure (vacuum) of 2 sources.
I have never used one on a 4 cylinder bike. However, it should work.
I suspect you would use it on cylinders 1 and 2 first, then 2 and 3, then 3 and 4, maybe 1 and 4 as a final check. The sequence might depend on how the 4 individual throttle shafts are adjusted.
No additional tubing..................this device only compares the pressure (vacuum) of 2 sources.
Ok but couldn't you make it where it would check all 4 at once kind of like you do with two?? All your trying to do is get the liquid all up to an equal line in the tube right? I'm just askin because it would be cool to have both in different spots in the shop. My buddy likes to work on cb 750
You could split the input lines so you have 4 lines going to two equally filled level lines. Problem would be if one side ends up being off you'd have a hell of a time deciding which carb to adjust to equal it out. So basically you would have the right bank equal with the left bank of carbs but each bank would be screwed in itself. I don't think this would be a possible gauge.
I do agree with the guys above....it cost me $3 to build mine and it works like a charm!
I do agree with the guys above....it cost me $3 to build mine and it works like a charm!
The mercury gauges they used to sell worked on a 4. They had 4 hoses that drew from one reservoir of mercury. You could do the same with a homemade one. Hang a plastic jar filled with ATF off the bottom of the yardstick with 4 brass tubes for 4 hoses stuck through the lid. I'm going to build a 2 cylinder version like this.
If you use a jar open to atmospheric pressure , the engine vacuum will draw the fluid up about 8.5 to 9 feet. The tubing would have to be at least 10 feet tall to allow for overshoot. Might be a bit awkward to handle.
The jar's not open, jeeze, it's sealed and so are the tubes through the top. That's the basic premise for a vacuum gauge to work - no seal, no vacuum. Guess I'll have to build one to show you guys, lol. It may cost $3 or $4 instead of $1.55 but I think it will be worth it.
5twins;
I see what you are designing now. Yes, if the jar is air tight, and the lines coming through the jar top are air tight, then it would draw the fluid up about 4 to 5 feet. That would work.
I see what you are designing now. Yes, if the jar is air tight, and the lines coming through the jar top are air tight, then it would draw the fluid up about 4 to 5 feet. That would work.
Don't most 4 carb set ups ha a sync screw between each carb? On the 750 maxum my friend has it has a screw in the center where the cables hook and one between the outside carbs.
I think on that set up I could use the home made manometer to sync the two center carbs, then the left two carbs and then the right two carbs.
Number right to left, 1,2,3,4 sync 2 and 3 then 1 to two and 4 to three.
Leo
I think on that set up I could use the home made manometer to sync the two center carbs, then the left two carbs and then the right two carbs.
Number right to left, 1,2,3,4 sync 2 and 3 then 1 to two and 4 to three.
Leo
XSLeo;
Yes Leo, that's how I think you would do 4 carbs....................just do a pair at a time, and do it 3 times.
Yes Leo, that's how I think you would do 4 carbs....................just do a pair at a time, and do it 3 times.
Rexxis
Almost there...
I'm running jbm boots w no barbs. How do I hook up to that? Isn't there a screw somewhere on the carbs you can take out and insert a barbed fitting? I remember reading that somewhere but am unable to find it again. If so, what are are the specs on the fitting and who do I get them from?
hard_y_rd
XS650 Guru
I'm wondering the same thing. I'm going to run early BS38's from a '73.
Rexxis
Almost there...
Found it. Pg 34 of the amckay carb guide(http://www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf). 38's (which I have) have a vacuum port which is normally blocked off by a screw. You can use a m6 x 1.00 barbed fitting in its place to hook your vacuum lines up to.
