Discussion in 'The Garage' started by rbirkey, Jun 18, 2019.
Pamco on this site touch's a nerve with a lot of people and it seems like it has for years. Whether it came from Pete himself or the Mikes knock off. I really like the one I got from Pete years ago and now I wish I had bought a just in case backup when I could.That being said I'll probably get one from Mikes and hope I never need it.
Been thinkin' about playing with this thing. 50 bucks shipped. No need to reinvent the wheel.
DIY ? HAH ! Pete had long experience in the electronics field being the one who made the bits to convert the telephone to touch tone.
Pete started developing the ignition for His Own Bike and originally made his trigger plate from a gerber baby food lid.
Problems with the system come from high heat and he solved this by hunting down the highest quality heat tolerant bits.
His price was giveaway to help the XS riders and he never set out to make high profit.
Boyers ( both red and blue box ) often burned a hole thru the box due to using low quality components.
I called them on this and they admitted to this and to shipping them out anyway !
Just copy Mike's ignition Turn about is fair play...
Actually, in your link Pete offers $100 to the first person who makes his own Gerber lid ignition. Didn't look at the details but he says it's simple. Make those....
Heiden Tuning have been selling these for quite some time now
Well there ya go... knew it would work.
All good, no hurry but if not going to need anymore, I will probably always keep my points-style ignition and would probably make an offer on the points plate as well if you get your electronic setup reliable and stable and are confident in it.
How does that system handle the spark timing advance function Jim?
Perhaps it uses the stock mechanical advance...?
Thanks for all the feedback!
Here is the wiring diagram of what I have done so far. Any thoughts, issues, or feedback?
From the Mike's install pdf.
Based on this feedback, I have replaced the original fuse holder with the newer blade type with a new 20A fuse!
Does this original "regulator" component on the left side of the battery box need to be present with the new ignition system?
I've updated the wiring diagram per feedback.
Can someone describe to me what to expect when the ignition key is turned? In the first position, the neutral safety light comes on along with the headlight (Light switch is on), and the taillight. In the next position, the headlight goes off, and when I hit the start button, nothing happens.
The first position is the one you use to start and ride the bike.
As I understand it, the second position is some sort of "parking" position which allows the lights to work but I think that the key can be withdrawn from the lock. I guess you would use that if you had to leave your bike somewhere and wanted to be able to mark its position in the dark (say beside a roadway). I must admit that I have never actually used the second position so I may have some of that incorrect.
Your schematic looks good Randy
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