mikesxs (new) stator is shorted or grounded???

[oldschoolxs]

red brush wire is under screw #2, not #1 like stock. You can also see it on the link peanut posted of the stator from mikes. The red wire jumps over screw #1 and is under screw #2. Green is under screw #3. brushes look identical to the pic you posted.

Pics of your stator with a close shot of the brushes will help. Remove the brushes and get shots of those too.
Here is a pic of what the stock brushes for the 70-79 stators. Your should look like these.
I also posted a pic of the stock 70-79 stator. In this pics the green wire is hooked under screw #3. The black wire is hooked under screw #1, the brush with the longer metal mounting strip hooks under screws #1, #2 and #4.
This brush is grounded to the stator frame by these three screws and back into the wiring harness on the black wire.
Your stator has a different colored brush wire. A red wire. Which screw does this red wire hook under?
Leo

 

[retiredgentleman]

yes those are the parts I am using.

can someone comment on my LOW AC readings on the 3 whites coming from stator? If my readings are low, then that means the stator is internally grounded and bad, correct???

I have had a friend who knows more about electrical than I do look at this a number of times and he is stumped as well. We ASSUME the stator should be good because it is new. now I am getting the low ac readings.

Just because you have low AC voltage output readings, does not mean the stator windings must be grounded. It could also mean that the rotor is not producing a strong magnetic field.

Why don't you answer your own question, about stator grounding, by simply measuring from anyone of the 3 stator winding outputs (white or yellow leads), to the stator frame. Your ohmmeter should show a very high resistance........infinity in a perfect world.

You could also measure the rotor current flow (that's what produces the magnetic field), by connecting your VOM as an ammeter on the 20 amp scale. Disconnect the normal wires first. 12 volts must be connected to the brushes with your ammeter in series. Should read around 2 amps.

I do recall, one member on this site that had a good stator while it was measured on the bench; however when he installed the stator onto the engine, one of the mounting screws had somehow grounded the stator windings.

Here is a basic fact. If you supply 13 volts to the rotor (that has a 5 ohm winding that is not grounded), and that rotor spins adjacent to the stator windings (that are not open circuit or grounded), you will definitely have about 12 AC volts when the engine is at about 1200 rpm.

 

[XSLeo]

With the red wire hooking to screw #1 or #2 And your brushes looking like those I posted, then the red wire is the ground wire. Black on a stock stator.
So this red wire should go back into the harness at the big plug and connect to the black wire in the harness.
The green to the green at the big plug.
On any regulator bypass test as I described you jump battery power to the green wire.
Leo

 

[Splexin]

I had this issue not long ago, stator was grounding out cause screw was too long (pickup) but being a 79 you shouldn't have that issue.....but you could check mounting screws in case.

Anyway, even after fixing it I kept having the issue and discovered it was actually the new reg I had installed. Only reason I figured it out is that I had an old functional one. You sure it isn't reg?

The problem with Mikes stators is they don't clear wrap or poxy the coil, insulating it from contact, like in the originals. So it doesn't take much to get contact with the stator housing. So as a result, paranoia about grounding out comes to mind when you start having charging issues yet everything else checks out. I was just about to send them a flaming email about the stator until I discovered it was reg.

 

[peanut]

mmm isn't that what i said at the beginning of this thread RG ?