More electrical research!

i just ran the bike both ways isolated and with the capacitor, it did the same thing when it was with the capacitor but when i ran it isolated just to the coil it ran good didnt die or seem like it was missing, it actually ran goooooddd, but then the battery volts got low so i had to quick riding it
 
motorbreath,

OK. Just for the record. I suggested isolating the ignition with post #12 way back on the 18th of August. :doh:..This is the 44th post three weeks later. You are a hard sell! :banghead:
 
motorbreath,

I'm not familiar with whoever you bought the PMA from. Suggest that you contact them. But while you have the engine running with the battery powering the PAMCO, check the voltage on the capacitor. Look for a max of 15 Volts at 3,000 and higher RPM. I would also make sure that all three stator wires are going to the reg / rect and that the reg / rect is grounded solidly to the frame, not the battery box or some other part of the bike, but the frame.
 
Well i hooked put my alternator back on yesterday, wired everything up and still doing the same thing!!! Im at a loss for ideas, i was thinking the battery but how could it be doing the same thing then if i just ran the hughs pma, pamco, and Tc bros capacitor?:confused: Im about ready to sell it and get a Suzuki! :banghead:
 
motorbreath,

Well, you will have to get this one working before you can sell it anyway. Have you contacted Hugh? He is very good at backing up what he sells.
 
lol, ya i know i have to get it running, but i dont think it was the PMA though like i said i put the alternator back on yesterday and its still doing the same thing so i dont think that it was the pma. whats the tell if the pamco is going bad, is there a tell on it? I have spark, and when i hooked the battery up straight to the pamco the bike ran great! I dont think its fuel related at all, i could have a bad ignition switch maybe? I don't think its the battery at all, the charging system works i had about 14 volts at 3500 rpms, and the battery was at 12.4 volts with the bike off. Just trying to run down all the ideas of what could be doing this.
 
motorbreath,

Well, re installing the stock alternator does put a different light on the subject. It could be a bad ignition switch, or more likely, a bad kill switch. Try this. Hook the coil up directly to the battery with an inline fuse but leave the PAMCO red wire going to the kill switch. The PAMCO does not draw much current, so if the kill switch is bad it should not affect it. Even though the coil has power all the time with this arrangement, it will not draw any current unless the PAMCO is turned on by the kill switch. If that works, then take the kill switch apart and clean the contacts.
 
pamcopete,

so should i leave the battery wire going to the ignition switch also and just run a separate wire with an inline fuse to the coil then, right? just adding a wire from battery to coil?
 
Sorry one more thing before i do that, i measured the volts from each skrew on the back of the key switch and was wondering if its normal for the each screw to drop from 13 volts to between 4-6 volts about every 5 seconds.
 
Sorry one more thing before i do that, i measured the volts from each skrew on the back of the key switch and was wondering if its normal for the each screw to drop from 13 volts to between 4-6 volts about every 5 seconds.

Well, no. Do you mean when the switch is on?
 
motorbreath,

Well, then no...dropping like that is not normal. Dig deeper. There may be something drawing excess current every 5 seconds. The PAMCO will down to 5 Volts, but that is not something you want to count on. It is probably not the switch itself, but something powered from the switch, like a light bulb with a partial short to ground. Just start disconnecting things until it goes away.
 
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