Mountain Rider's 1972 XS650 Teardown and Rebuild

[Mountain Rider]

Hello again and yes I am back with pic's.
As some of you know I have started a restro on my XS some time ago. Life got in the way but hay better late then never. So follow along if you would like and when I have questions I will post to this thread.

So here she is.


Here is the frame, swing arm, center stand, after tear-down and a wash.




So I want to start with getting a rolling chassis first and my first question for the frame and other rusted parts is. Has any one use Krylon Rust Protector™ Rust Converting Primer or Rust Tough Primer ? I rely do not want to take the frame to have media blasted because of cost and I will rattle can paint the frame myself. I will prep the frame and all parts the best I can but some areas are hard to get at and this is why I ask about the Krylon products. Someone also told me to me to do a acid wash once I have removed the rust the best I can, to help kill the rust but I do not know of what kind of product I should look at for the acid was if it's rely needed? Any thought are welcome.

More pic's with progress notes to come.

 

[Mailman]

Well it looks like you and I are restoring the same bike! I also have a bare frame sitting in my garage waiting to be painted. I intend to use spray cans also. I have done a couple of other bikes this way with good results. Here is my technique. First a hot soapy wash and rinse, then clean all the nooks and crannies out really well, the frame needs to be CLEAN BEFORE you start sanding or you just sand grease into your paint and the new paint will never stick. After you think you have the frame clean THEN wipe the whole frame down with paint prep solvent and dry with paper towels. If you have any grease or crud left, you will see it on the paper towels. Repeat until you no longer pick up any dirty residue. Any oil left on the frame will cause fisheyes in your new paint.
NOW you are good to sand. I use 400 grit wet sand paper. Make sure you smooth out any scratches and chips and scuff the entire surface. After sanding , wipe down with paint prep until clean. I don’t use primer, I use Rustoleum Professional grade gloss black.
It can be applied directly to metal or over your original ( sanded) paint. I like Rustolium Professional because it has a good spray pattern and lays down a good heavy coat, which smooths out nice and hardens up nice and has very good gloss retention.
Here are some things I’ve already painted that way.

Good luck with your build! Bob

 

[Mountain Rider]

Looks nice Mailman ! The reason I ask about the Krylon is that it changes the composition of the rust that may be left behind and neutralizes it and then makes ready for the painting. I am just worried about the tight area around the head tube/down tubes that are hard to get at, as I have some surface rust and maybe a bit more then surface rust in some spots. I also wonder if by using the Krylon products that I asked about above will in time just flake away causing the paint to blister and peel?

Edit:

I see that there is also Rust-Oleum® Rust Reformer, might give this a try...

 

[willis]

I agree with MM’s suggestion of Rustoleum Professional grade. While I have not painted a frame, I have used on wheels, swingarm, engine covers, triple trees....etc. it lays on nice and is a durable finish. You can buy in spray cans as well as quarts and gallons if you have a spray gun. I was just at Menards last night to get some more since Lowes quit carrying it. I was surprised at the various color options they offered in the Professional grade spray cans. I am getting ready to do some mag wheels in the near future. I have been very happy with this product.

 

[Mountain Rider]

Ya looks as if I will go the Rustoleum path. I read through 25 pages of the 40+ pages of Mailman's thread for his restro project, I am jealous of the condition his scooter was in when he picked it up much cleaner then mine.

Bench grinder with wire wheels does wonders though....

 

[Mountain Rider]

Hello Everybody,
Been some time now, hope all are well...

So working on the XS cleaning the carbs, I thought I should take a look at MikesXS site to see what gaskets are still available for the Mikuni BS38.
Looking over the site I find this https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-choke-body-gasket-8-hole-1976-79-oem-447-14979-00.html ok looking below on the notes it reads "1970-73 650's did not use a choke body gasket.". hummmm I say.

This is my carb of my manufactured summer of 71, but 1972 XS2, looks like a gasket or as the service manual says PG.67 - #33 Starter Packing.

Here is the choke side of carb with gasket removed.

Now back when I received the bike 16 years ago, I did order a Keyster 48-1918 carb kit from MikeXS. To tell the truth, I do not remember opening the
pg.67 #24 Starter Body Assembly when I started working on the bike the first time.

So with this said is MikeXS site correct and I must have added the gasket back 16 years ago? The gasket is in pretty nice shape not brittle like the others and I could probably continue using it if needed?

What say all, and thank you for the input and help.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... ok looking below on the notes it reads "1970-73 650's did not use a choke body gasket.". hummmm I say...

I'll see your "hmmmmmm, and raise a

My '71 carbs use the starter gaskets, wouldn't run without them. Some have reported receiving thin gaskets. I prefer the thicker versions. Also, check your carb's choke surfaces for irregularities. Seems that there's an issue with the later BS38s. Ask members Mailman and Robinc about what they've found.

Starting at post #404
http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-21#post-494783

Starting at post #151
http://www.xs650.com/threads/on-the-road-again-at-40-the-bike-that-is.49360/page-8#post-513362

 

[Mountain Rider]

Ya I have flowing Mailman's build. So far my surface on the carbs are looking real nice. The thing that messed me up was how MikesXS said no gasket on choke body.

 

[5twins]

Some years of these carbs have only one choke assembly, located on the left carb. The right carb is fed "choke" through a crossover hose between the carbs. The right carb doesn't have a choke assembly but the cast area where it went is still there on the body. It is covered with a plain flat cover. That cover uses no gasket. Any actual choke assembly will need a gasket.