My first build (2016) '72 xs650

fredintoon said:
Hi Azazel,
well, you seem to have won the photo-posting battle, or at least fought it to a standstill, eh?
About the bike, what's that antique furniture term? Well patinated?
It's a look that some riders cherish, it lets them spend more expense and effort on the bike's mechanicals and keeps it safer from thieves, who prefer to nick the shiny ones.
The photos do show that besides not being kept looking good the bike has been somewhat PO'd.
While side-covers are easily lost it's not everyone who's install his mufflers wrong side out.
And WTF is the thing bolted to the rightside muffler? A flagpole bracket?
When you put the mufflers to rights a thing that won't cost much but will improve the bike's look is to replace the el-cheapo strap-iron muffler clamps with Stainless T-bolt clamps from Princess auto.
[edit] your last pair of photos just leapfrogged this post. Reverse electrolysis cleaning may be the way to de-rust that tank and there may be more than $50-worth of frustration in restoring that switch. Perhaps it's replacement time?
Click to expand...

I had no idea they (mufflers) were installed upside down lol! (though i new something wasn't right...


The left muffler is about 1/4 inch from the chain man! Jeez! I knew that wasn't good Haha:wtf::laugh:
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And here's another pic of the right side one.
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As for whats bolted on it, I have no friggin clue. :shrug: I'll know more about terminology when I get my manuals.

I have the side covers still. I just took them off to clean the carbs.

As for the handlebar switch: I'm having a hard time finding OEM parts for '72 gauges and switches. Been looking and looking. Others were right on this forum when they said that '78's and up were easier to find parts. But whatever, I fell in love with the '72.:bike:

Send me a link for the T-bolt clamps from PA if you get a chance.

reverse electrolysis. I'll have to look into that.
 
Here's a pic of the carbs. I cleaned them thoroughly and reassembled them. I'm gonna send them to oldschoolcarbs at one point to make'em all shinny.

full
 
Azazel said:
I had no idea they (mufflers) were installed upside down lol! (though i new something wasn't right...
The left muffler is about 1/4 inch from the chain man! Jeez! I knew that wasn't good Haha:wtf::laugh:
And here's another pic of the right side one.
As for whats bolted on it, I have no friggin clue. :shrug: I'll know more about terminology when I get my manuals.
I have the side covers still. I just took them off to clean the carbs.
As for the handlebar switch: I'm having a hard time finding OEM parts for '72 gauges and switches. Been looking and looking. Others were right on this forum when they said that '78's and up were easier to find parts. But whatever, I fell in love with the '72.:bike:
Send me a link for the T-bolt clamps from PA if you get a chance.
reverse electrolysis. I'll have to look into that.
Click to expand...

Hi Azazel,
those mufflers are aftermarket items. They ain't "handed" so they just need to be rotated 180º so the mounting rails are on the inside.
BTW, as those mounts aren't in use (except for perhaps mounting a pole to fly the Maple Leaf from on July 1st) just what is holding those mufflers on, eh?
If they are simply hanging off the headers pretty soon they'll be flying on their own.
[edit] the Princess Auto link didn't work.
Google "Princess Auto Canada" and type "t-bolt hose clamp" in the catalog's ASK box [end edit]
And yes! That's the XS650 owner's Mantra:-
clean the carbs, clean the carbs, clean the carbs and if she still don't run right, clean 'em again.
Well the later model bar switches may not be exact replacements but they aught to work with some creative wiring work.
And I seem to remember tank electrolysis being findable on this site somewhere.
 
fredintoon said:
Hi Azazel,
those mufflers are aftermarket items. They ain't "handed" so they just need to be rotated 180º so the mounting rails are on the inside.
BTW, as those mounts aren't in use (except for perhaps mounting a pole to fly the Maple Leaf from on July 1st) just what is holding those mufflers on, eh?
If they are simply hanging off the headers pretty soon they'll be flying on their own.
[edit] the Princess Auto link didn't work.
Google "Princess Auto Canada" and type "t-bolt hose clamp" in the catalog's ASK box [end edit]
And yes! That's the XS650 owner's Mantra:-
clean the carbs, clean the carbs, clean the carbs and if she still don't run right, clean 'em again.
Well the later model bar switches may not be exact replacements but they aught to work with some creative wiring work.
And I seem to remember tank electrolysis being findable on this site somewhere.
Click to expand...
Yeah. That's what I figured. (With the handlebar switches) I'm probably just gonna get a similar set of switches and tinker the wiring till it works.

As for what's holding the mufflers on... Believe it or not, almost looks like one side welded to the frame I shit you not. Haha. Hard to tell. I'll check again but I don't know. They're tight tight up against the frame mid way.

Thanks
 
The bike looks like it is in pretty good shape considering. Mine was similar. Thats the reason for two years. Replace those mufflers with the repo's from Mikes. You should be able to clean those switches up. You can buy new gray cover http://www.vintageconnections.com
 
Last edited:
While on eBay, search for:
"Yamaha DT100 handle switch"
"Yamaha RX100 handle switch"

Those are $17 offerings that look to be very close.

The dirt in your switch makes me think the bike may have been underwater. Keep yer eyes open for this during teardown.

Edit: Or it may have been tailgating a pickup down a dusty road. Slim opening in front of the switch could let dirt/dust in there. Not sure about Yamaha, but H*nda service procs called for tightening the front part of clamshell switch bodies first, then tightening the backside, to prevent water/dirt entry...
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
While on eBay, search for:
"Yamaha DT100 handle switch"
"Yamaha RX100 handle switch"

Those are $17 offerings that look to be very close.

The dirt in your switch makes me think the bike may have been underwater. Keep yer eyes open for this during teardown.

Edit: Or it may have been tailgating a pickup down a dusty road. Slim opening in front of the switch could let dirt/dust in there. Not sure about Yamaha, but H*nda service procs called for tightening the front part of clamshell switch bodies first, then tightening the backside, to prevent water/dirt entry...
Click to expand...

My theory was: that the bike was on its side for some undetermined amount of time with the handle bar "dipped" in a pile of dirt or something. But just plain ol mud on the highway could be right too.
I considered putting on another handlebar switch kit. Just figuring I'll have to trial and error test all the wires cuz the connections most likely will not match right?
 
Azazel said:
...I considered putting on another handlebar switch kit. Just figuring I'll have to trial and error test all the wires cuz the connections most likely will not match right?
Click to expand...

Yep. Different connectors, too. I've looked at those switches, never bought any. If you do try to retrofit one, it would be great if you would show us how...
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
Yep. Different connectors, too. I've looked at those switches, never bought any. If you do try to retrofit one, it would be great if you would show us how...
Click to expand...
What I might do is:

Get the 17.99 similar looking one.
Cut both wires and start matching wires one by one until everything "blinks" right. Like my old man use to do with trailer hitches. If it doesn't work, well... I'll just try and rebuild that
Original switch. It's not in that bad of shape, it just barfed out all its bits and pieces when I opened it.
 
So yesterday I went and got some CLR (2 gallons) and filled up the tank. Swishing it around ever 30 minutes or so.

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A pic of the tank interior before:
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And a pic of the interior this morning:
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Thinking of putting so little rocks in there to scratch off the remaining rust. It rubs off quite nicely when I scrape it with my index finger.
 
I used this duct seal to plug the bottom.

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One of the petcock things is split right down the middle. I guess this would enable me to run on fumes? heh heh. Should i change it?

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Decided to have a drink while i waited. Heck, it was friday...

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This works

View attachment 62960

Clean well, wrap a couple of strands from a copper wire around the top, solder. the tank hole is small don't let the top get too thick. That valve has been in the tank for about 3 years now.

Note a #26 oring from a metric oring assortment stops tank petcock leaks.

View attachment 62959

It's fat, lightly install screws push it into, place finish tightening, a bit of lube helps. I razor blade any remaining paint off the tank bottom seal area lightly sand the metal.

I like a couple feet of light chain for tank shaking duties, it comes back out easy with a hook, done.
 
Instead of rocks, try sheet rock screws and count how many you put in, that way you can count the ones you get out to know you got them all.
On the petcock, that tube is works so you have the regular amount of fuel and some for reserve. In ON fuel flows in the top of that tube. In RES fuel flows in at the bottom.
You might be able to carefully remove that tube and replace it. If you can find tubing the right size, Maybe slip a piece of fuel line down around the tube.
If you get it clean enough you might try soldering the crack.
Leo
 
gggGary said:
This works

View attachment 62960

Clean well, wrap a couple of strands from a copper wire around the top, solder. the tank hole is small don't let the top get too thick. That valve has been in the tank for about 3 years now.

Note a #26 oring from a metric oring assortment stops tank petcock leaks.

View attachment 62959

It's fat, lightly install screws push it into, place finish tightening, a bit of lube helps. I razor blade any remaining paint off the tank bottom seal area lightly sand the metal.

I like a couple feet of light chain for tank shaking duties, it comes back out easy with a hook, done.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gary. I'll do that. Any reason why the copper wire is necessary at the top? to reinforce it or something?
 
XSLeo said:
Instead of rocks, try sheet rock screws and count how many you put in, that way you can count the ones you get out to know you got them all.
On the petcock, that tube is works so you have the regular amount of fuel and some for reserve. In ON fuel flows in the top of that tube. In RES fuel flows in at the bottom.
You might be able to carefully remove that tube and replace it. If you can find tubing the right size, Maybe slip a piece of fuel line down around the tube.
If you get it clean enough you might try soldering the crack.
Leo
Click to expand...

That's actually a pretty good idea man. I'm sure i could find a tubing to condom on there and would pretty much solve it without soldering... We'll see how it goes.

Im gonna try those screws now. I got some lying around somewhere.
 
Note above, the hole in the gas tank is skinny the gas tubing won't fit through. Make the hole big and the o-ring won't seal. The copper wire wrap is to pull, hold the split together. I have run into many of these tubes split, this is my best solution to date. It's an odd size tube, and quite thin....
 
How about shrink tubing used for electrical connections. Not sure if it will hold up to the gas?
 

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