My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)

Sudonate91 said:
Where did you get that nice aluminum cover :yikes: . Also great thread thanks for linking it.
Click to expand...
MotoLanna. 2 yrs later and it's still 26 bucks.
One of the nice things about a build thread... it's a journal you can refer to long after you forget where you got stuff from. :umm:
 
Oooh... check out this aluminum swingarm over at MotoLanna. Love those axle adjusters.

Untitled2.png


Untitled.png


Untitled3.png
 
 
Last edited:
Sudonate91 said:
@Jim would you recomment the K&L caliper rebuild kit too? https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-L-Brake-Caliper-Rebuild-Kit-32-1250-Yamaha/333772865113?fits=Make:Yamaha&epid=171146572&hash=item4db669be59:g:FpYAAOSwaxJfnZJQ

this guy also sells the master rebuild https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-L-Brake-...247618&hash=item48f0e149e2:g:d20AAOSwv4xfm5c4


Edit: He also sells the brake line https://www.ebay.com/itm/Galfer-Brake-Line-Kit-Front-fits-Yamaha-XVS-65A-V-Star-650-Classic-2004-2008/313318818893?fits=Make:Yamaha&epid=15026939625&hash=item48f341c44d:g:skcAAOSwjVtfwICD
Click to expand...
Never dealt with Parts Giant. He says it's K&L but I don't see any packaging that says K&L.... so I don't know.
For the caliper (slave) plan on a new piston too. There will be a better than even chance it's too pitted to reuse.
 
Cant remember any need for a special tool either
XS Leo in # 256
I have not seen any description of the problem
Can you pump up pressure on the handle ?
Can you adjust at the handle so pressure can be built ?
Does any piston move in the caliper ..?
Is the brake on ??

Speaking of tools something like that
Adjustable Pliers Water Pump Pliers with rags or something in between
If you think and read before you do it it is doable simpler than the carburetor.
Perhaps taking the caliper off the bike hanging by the side and after the pressure test at the handle see if the
Pistons in the caliper is stuck with pressure. If they move they can be pushed out by that most of the way
The water pump pliers trying to move it.

Be careful with the screws at the top of the reservoir those can sit hard and are easily damaged.

And brakes is a safety concern .. ..I suppose those parts can be bolted off and taken to a shop that can do it.
But generally speaking in my view they are not so sensitive or difficult to work on . But again there is a safety factor.



 
Just came in late - good to hear the bike tick over! Hope you put some air in that back tyre before you ventured out? LOL. All good advice on the front brake. Brakes are safety critical, but they are not hard to work on. Just have to make sure you do it right. If you don't have compressed air to remove caliper piston, I've usually managed by splitting the caliper, taking hold of the edge of the piston with mole grips & rag and turning the piston this way and that, then gradually pull it out. OK to apply some lube such as WD40 because your going to clean it all anyway.
 
Jan_P said:
Cant remember any need for a special tool either
XS Leo in # 256
I have not seen any description of the problem
Can you pump up pressure on the handle ?
Can you adjust at the handle so pressure can be built ?
Does any piston move in the caliper ..?
Is the brake on ??

Speaking of tools something like that
Adjustable Pliers Water Pump Pliers with rags or something in between
If you think and read before you do it it is doable simpler than the carburetor.
Perhaps taking the caliper off the bike hanging by the side and after the pressure test at the handle see if the
Pistons in the caliper is stuck with pressure. If they move they can be pushed out by that most of the way
The water pump pliers trying to move it.

Be careful with the screws at the top of the reservoir those can sit hard and are easily damaged.

And brakes is a safety concern .. ..I suppose those parts can be bolted off and taken to a shop that can do it.
But generally speaking in my view they are not so sensitive or difficult to work on . But again there is a safety factor.
Click to expand...
Right now the handle cannot be compressed. It seems like it's all gummed up. That's the extent of the diagnosis I was able to come up with.
 
Mornin..
Sudonate91 said:
. If only the master cylinder rebuild kit wasnt out of stock :(
Click to expand...
Well, Plan B, this taken apart master cylinder isn't doing anybody anygood living on my shelf. Im keeping it for someday? Na, if you would like to reassemble and try it out, I could send it to you.
Working today, off Christmas eve thru "End of 2020 Year" :lmao: can get to the post office then.
20201222_053331.jpg

Saved it. If I didn't believe it was good enough to use, I'd of tossed it. You could try it, give me something perhaps if it works out well. -R Vancouver WA
 
Sudonate91 said:
Right now the handle cannot be compressed. It seems like it's all gummed up. That's the extent of the diagnosis I was able to come up with.
Click to expand...

At this point in time with what i know it is not certain a cylinder rebuild is needed.
Not even any new parts
Thinking out loud I would suspect new caliper pistons and stuff. They can rust.
But the solid handle can be locked in pressure only .
That goes away when the system is opened.
I Have never heard of gummed up brakes .But i have heard of water coming in that's why
brake fluid replacement is recommended.
I did not do that for many years + 10 and ended up paying the price for it
The brake pistons rusted and stopped working. Seized
If this was me I most likely would go for the procedures used when changing the fluid.
Se what happens
And if that not works open a hose connector closer to the handle so the handle has the possibility to move if there is locked in pressure.

I would also consider Machines offer in
# 276
Above i think it looks fine enough.
 
Yes, definitely take Machine up on his offer. Between his and your MC, you should be able to assemble one good one. This is the off season so you've got time on your hands. I wouldn't rush into buying a bunch of brake parts just yet, you may not need hardly any. Like has been mentioned, a thorough cleaning works many times without needing to replace any parts. To get the snap ring out of your MC, many just buy and mod (if need be) a cheap pair of needle nose from HF. Who knows, you may not need to grind the tips at all, they may fit just as they are ......

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-34-...MIqLLixYbi7QIVCQCGCh2wswkAEAQYASABEgLjcvD_BwE

What you will want to replace are the brake lines. Most of us do away with the 2 lines and splitter block, using one long line in their place. These stainless lines are dirt cheap on eBay now (less than $10). All you'll need to do is determine the length you need. You've made no mention of replacing the handlebars. Although yours don't look stock, they are still rather high. Many of us change to a lower, more normal height bar. Not only does this improve the look of the bike (in my opinion) but more importantly, it improves the steering "feel" and input. Here's my '83 as I got it (stock "buckhorn" bars) and after changing to lower Euro bend handlebars. With the lower bars, a 90cm long line works well .....

4uE06QI.jpg


7zJUwvH.jpg


Lb47yPc.jpg
 
Jan_P said:
Kick starting is something I have done --- been there done that
In the beginning on British bikes .Some I knew kicked with a Closed petcock and opened it when it started
Avoiding to much fuel sucked in. Not sure if it helped.

The saying was if it don't start on first or second kick then you are in Trouble.
Some bikes had a reputation to be dangerous High compression pistons on twins and single 500 s BSA B33.
If one don't have the right technique and are not big enough man you might not get a Norton Commando to start at all.
" Its a mans game "
You have to be careful try avoid having a fully straight leg when it fires .. Because of it kickbacks ..it can hurt your leg
or worse
On XS 650 the rubber on the kick can be slippery when wet. I once slipped off and the kick hit the calf muscle .Limping for 1 week
On a summer road trip on camping sites and so. And still needed too keep on kick starting.
XS 650
I have had substandard wiring so I have always kick started .Trying the electrical only do it harder.
If on the kick stand -- makes the leg being in an angle if one needs to try hard. According technique
I move the kick to the ignition point and then I heave myself Upwards and then on the way down I start it
There are two ignition points ( 2 Cylinders ) one with the kick more horizontal which is advantage .Unless the other cylinder ignites more easily.
The use of choke is bike specific and temperature dependent
At some setup I had --- choke and throttle at kicking did the trick .Right now strangely it is choke and let go entirely off the gas handle
It feels awkward but it starts ..
It can help to do as the old Harley owners do Kick it around one two three times with ignition off and then start it.
notice it depends --- according the rule first or second kick or you are in trouble.
If you fumble and are getting to 5 th kickk ..one way can be to push the choke all the way in and do it a couple of more times
The way I do it if problems arise
On central stand .Stepping up having the foot on the left Foot peg and kick starter ( right side )
Heaving myself upvards ... jumping off the left side foot peg the right on the kick and on the way down Kicking it.
Click to expand...
Kickstart Kudos is overrated. Quite why people want to kickstart their bikes is beyond me. All that coffee bar car park jumping and prancing is OK for those who like to watch. Each to his or her own I suppose. Me, I’ll press the button.
 
Good point 5twins, thought about suggesting the Bike Master Euro bars which do actually work with the "Special" angled master cylinder too.
Let's get him hooked up for a good ride
:thumbsup:
 

Similar threads

Adamc
WELSH FLAT TRACK REVIVAL
13 14 15
Replies
298
Views
20K
rickthefix
rickthefix
K
Right Carb Running Rich
Replies
18
Views
2K
5twins
5twins
REPETE
'75 650B Charging System Guidance Needed
4 5 6
Replies
105
Views
8K
REPETE
REPETE
B
1978 xs650 "build" work in progress
Replies
5
Views
2K
OHRider
OHRider
VladTheDrumpaler
1978 XS650 Electrical Rebuild
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
VladTheDrumpaler
VladTheDrumpaler
Back
Top