My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)

[Sudonate91]

Mornin..

Well, Plan B, this taken apart master cylinder isn't doing anybody anygood living on my shelf. Im keeping it for someday? Na, if you would like to reassemble and try it out, I could send it to you.
Working today, off Christmas eve thru "End of 2020 Year" can get to the post office then.
View attachment 181107
Saved it. If I didn't believe it was good enough to use, I'd of tossed it. You could try it, give me something perhaps if it works out well. -R Vancouver WA

How much would you like for the mc? Shipping to zip code 63366 in the United States. Seems like a good route to go!

 

[Sudonate91]

Yes, definitely take Machine up on his offer. Between his and your MC, you should be able to assemble one good one. This is the off season so you've got time on your hands. I wouldn't rush into buying a bunch of brake parts just yet, you may not need hardly any. Like has been mentioned, a thorough cleaning works many times without needing to replace any parts. To get the snap ring out of your MC, many just buy and mod (if need be) a cheap pair of needle nose from HF. Who knows, you may not need to grind the tips at all, they may fit just as they are ......

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-34-...MIqLLixYbi7QIVCQCGCh2wswkAEAQYASABEgLjcvD_BwE

What you will want to replace are the brake lines. Most of us do away with the 2 lines and splitter block, using one long line in their place. These stainless lines are dirt cheap on eBay now (less than $10). All you'll need to do is determine the length you need. You've made no mention of replacing the handlebars. Although yours don't look stock, they are still rather high. Many of us change to a lower, more normal height bar. Not only does this improve the look of the bike (in my opinion) but more importantly, it improves the steering "feel" and input. Here's my '83 as I got it (stock "buckhorn" bars) and after changing to lower Euro bend handlebars. With the lower bars, a 90cm long line works well .....

I do like the look of the lower bars! My only hesitation is changing the look too much. Since the main reason I'm doing this is sentimental value for the family, is like to keep it's impression as close to how gramps road it.

So for the brake lines, I havnt looked too close on how the the works. You said two lines and a splitter block. Does the front brake control the back brake too? Or where does it split to? I was going to get a 20" stainless steel line for the front assuming that was the length and only run I needed for the front.

 

[Jim]

Normally there's two lines... MC to splitter block and splitter block to caliper. I have a one piece HEL line that I took off my SG when I converted it to dual disc. It just bypasses the splitter and goes direct to the caliper. It's almost new and was quiet spendy. I'll let it go for way less than I gave for it. Send me a PM if you're interested.

 

[jetmechmarty]

I do like the look of the lower bars! My only hesitation is changing the look too much. Since the main reason I'm doing this is sentimental value for the family, is like to keep it's impression as close to how gramps road it.

So for the brake lines, I havnt looked too close on how the the works. You said two lines and a splitter block. Does the front brake control the back brake too? Or where does it split to? I was going to get a 20" stainless steel line for the front assuming that was the length and only run I needed for the front.

The buckhorn bars work fine if you like them. I've been living with them since 1983 and haven't considered changing them. Now, it includes the same reason. That's how I bought it.

Many of these bikes have two brakes on the front wheel. On the lower tree is a junction. You have a line from the master cyl to the splitter, and another from the splitter to the caliper. You may omit the splitter, since you have one caliper only. If you're replacing the handle bar, wait on the decision. The stock bar is a long line. The shorter bar will work better with a shorter line.

 

[Jim]

The buckhorn bars work fine if you like them. I've been living with them since 1983 and haven't considered changing them. Now, it includes the same reason. That's how I bought it.

Ditto! My Kenny Roberts "wannabe" days are a distant memory... the buckhorns ride just fine. I've got one that's in way better shape than yours. They'll just cost ya the ride if you want 'em?

 

[member28833]

How much would you like for the mc? Shipping to zip code 63366 in the United States.

Lol.. I already made a couple hundred bucks off of a $50 dead partial bike already. I'll send it to you. Its up to you to make it work
pm message me an address, there is a chance I'll get to the post office tomorrow.
Cheers -R

 

[Jim]

 

[Sudonate91]

So another random question. My father in law has a powder coating setup at his company and offered me the use of it. Does anyone know where I could buy power coat paint the same color as the tank? I believe the colors I have are from a '78

 

[jetmechmarty]

So another random question. My father in law has a powder coating setup at his company and offered me the use of it. Does anyone know where I could buy power coat paint the same color as the tank? I believe the colors I have are from a '78

There are some powder coaters that do amazing work. I saw a very nice looking powder coated pickup truck a few years ago. Still, I think I've seen better results with a rattle can than powder. Then again, free is a good price.

 

[Sudonate91]

There are some powder coaters that do amazing work. I saw a very nice looking powder coated pickup truck a few years ago. Still, I think I've seen better results with a rattle can than powder. Then again, free is a good price.

If I wanted to get real crazy I would powder coat the frame. But I'm not real crazy lol. He also has a sandblaster which can be dialed to less agressive grits. I wonder if I can blast the parts and re-apply paint via powder or rattle. Is there a place to get oem rattle cans? Or something that is similar to oem?

 

[jetmechmarty]

If I wanted to get real crazy I would powder coat the frame.

I'd powder the frame.

 

[Sudonate91]

I'd powder the frame.

That requires me to take everything off . Idk if I would be capable of putting it back together! Sometimes I lack attention to detail on a project that large.

 

[GLJ]

That requires me to take everything off . Idk if I would be capable of putting it back together! Sometimes I lack attention to detail on a project that large.

Take your time, take a lot of pics. It's all done one step at a time.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Take your time, take a lot of pics. It's all done one step at a time.

Yes, put it all together and make everything work as it’s supposed to. Don’t take it apart before that’s done. So, stay the course.

 

[5twins]

Yes, that is a ton of work and something not even I've done, lol. I just touch up the rust spots on the frame with Rustoleum, lol.

 

[Jim]

Yeah... a full on restoration might be a bit much for where you're at... now. Gain some skills fixing it up first and go from there. There's nothing wrong with just making it a "survivor" for now.... everything fixed and working with maybe a few cosmetic fixes. You'll gain tons of knowledge and maybe down the road be ready to tackle a resto.
To see how involved a resto is, have a look at my 80SG restoration... or @Mailman and his XS2.

 

[5twins]

Yes, get the bike up and running and then you can do the "ride and wrench" thing, fixing little things here and there one at a time. That's how I go about doing most of mine. Nothing I do after getting it running usually lays it up for more than a few days.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes, get the bike up and running and then you can do the "ride and wrench" thing, fixing little things here and there one at a time. That's how I go about doing most of mine. Nothing I do after getting it running usually lays it up for more than a few days.

Yes to that Worth to mention in a planned maintenance routine
Do the work and tuning in the winter
And riding in the summer
Nowadays it is better getting parts and for these bikes these can be found.
But it can always happen that the part you need is difficult to find and it can take long time to get it.
More so for rarer bikes.
I remember people that for Harley over here ... had an engine failure first or second week in June
Before the parts was here --- Shop vaccinations over --- and the job done it could be in late August and Early September
And then the climate could make it to late ----season over.
I suppose it is different in Arizona and California but here it is important to have the bike in shape and serviced.
When double digits in Celsius temperature comes
It s a real Buzz kill to be forced to take the engine out mid May to Late July ---Really bad..

 

[XSLeo]

If you get your M/C to work you can use that to push the piston out of the caliper. Just don't get you fingers in the wrong place as the piston comes out.
Leo

 

[5twins]

You said you resolved your clutch issue by lubing the worm. You said it looked relatively clean. Going by the pic you posted back in post #172, it's clean alright, too clean, lol. It should be packed with grease. Also of note - it appears the lock nut on the adjuster screw is installed backwards. There's a shoulder on the nut below the hex part and that should face in towards the worm .....

Now let's talk about properly greasing the worm. You'll need to take it apart, remove the inner male metal worm from the outer nylon part. Clean any dirt and remnants of old grease off the parts. The high ribs on one part correspond to the grooves in the other so fill those grooves with grease in both parts .....

Then screw the two parts back together, work them in and out, and wipe off any excess grease that is forced out. Now you've got a nice 100% greased worm.

You'll notice the metal male worm has 4 ribs or "swirls" on it. That means you can start screwing it into the female part in one of 4 positions. Only one is correct and will put the worm arm where it needs to be once fully screwed in so the cable can connect to it (arm pointing to about 7 or 8 o'clock) .....

To arrive at this correct position once screwed in, start the worm with the arm pointing to about the 3 o'clock position .....