breahn riley
XS650 Addict
What gauge wire should I run from the red reg/rec wire to the battery? Is 12 fine?
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My Wiring Thread
- Thread starter breahn riley
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical pamco wiring
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
What about 2.5ish?
Not good, if correct.....I suggest that you go to Radio Shack and but 2, 10 Ohms resistors, twist them together in parallel and measure the resistance. Should be 5 Ohms. Do this to verify that your meter is working correctly and that you are doing it right. Some meters have problems reading low resistance, especially them fancy auto ranging pieces of junk that no real man would be caught using.
Also, you must either remove the brushes or unplug the regulator or the reg/rect to get an accurate reading.
The extra effort is worth it because a rewound rotor is $125 plus shipping.
If you do all these extra checks and you are still reading 2.5 Ohms, then you need a rewound rotor and you will find no better person to provide one than Gary at "Custom Rewind" in Birmingham, AL @ 800 798 7282.
You will also need a rotor puller, available at MikesXS for $10, or talk to Gary. Sometimes he has a loaner puller available. Do not even think about removing the rotor without this tool.
Gary's a great guy. Almost makes the ordeal of a fried rotor worthwhile. You'll come away from this experience a better person.
Not good, if correct.....I suggest that you go to Radio Shack and but 2, 10 Ohms resistors, twist them together in parallel and measure the resistance. Should be 5 Ohms. Do this to verify that your meter is working correctly and that you are doing it right. Some meters have problems reading low resistance, especially them fancy auto ranging pieces of junk that no real man would be caught using.
Also, you must either remove the brushes or unplug the regulator or the reg/rect to get an accurate reading.
The extra effort is worth it because a rewound rotor is $125 plus shipping.
If you do all these extra checks and you are still reading 2.5 Ohms, then you need a rewound rotor and you will find no better person to provide one than Gary at "Custom Rewind" in Birmingham, AL @ 800 798 7282.
You will also need a rotor puller, available at MikesXS for $10, or talk to Gary. Sometimes he has a loaner puller available. Do not even think about removing the rotor without this tool.
Gary's a great guy. Almost makes the ordeal of a fried rotor worthwhile. You'll come away from this experience a better person.
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pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
You don't need that heavy a gauge. 14 is just fine.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
cool, ill look into the meter part tmmrw. on my diagram it doesnt really show wires coming out of the key ign. in my ign there are brown, blue and red wires. also the tail light that i purchased only has a green and black wire. on my diagram the tail light shows three wires. any ideas? i had the stator completely off when i took the reading and it read 2.1 ohms. so i buy two 10 ohm resistors?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
breahn,
The tail light probably needs a ground to the case. The fender is not grounded, so you will have to run a separate wire to the mounting screw for the tail light itself.
If that ignition switch is stock, the red is battery, the blue goes to the tail light and the brown feeds the fuse box and everything else. You can ignore the blue and just run the tail light off of the fuse box.
Having the rotor off when you take the measurement really helps, so it's likely that the rotor is fried, but just for a sanity check, get the resistors from the Shack. I suggest two 10 Ohm in parallel because the standard for 5 Ohms is actually 4.7 Ohms, I believe, but that will work as well. Just one 4.7 Ohm resistor. You are doing this little test before you commit to spending $125 just to be sure your meter is working OK.
The tail light probably needs a ground to the case. The fender is not grounded, so you will have to run a separate wire to the mounting screw for the tail light itself.
If that ignition switch is stock, the red is battery, the blue goes to the tail light and the brown feeds the fuse box and everything else. You can ignore the blue and just run the tail light off of the fuse box.
Having the rotor off when you take the measurement really helps, so it's likely that the rotor is fried, but just for a sanity check, get the resistors from the Shack. I suggest two 10 Ohm in parallel because the standard for 5 Ohms is actually 4.7 Ohms, I believe, but that will work as well. Just one 4.7 Ohm resistor. You are doing this little test before you commit to spending $125 just to be sure your meter is working OK.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
Ok, ill pick up the resistors today and see what is up. I have a rotor puller so ill pull the rotor off and see what the ohms are. If its shot, I already called Gary and left a message. Thanks Pete.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
Gary has got a heavy accent.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
breahn,
Not if you're from South Carolina.....y'all.....
Not if you're from South Carolina.....y'all.....
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
Pete or anyone, do you have a photo of the orientation of the stator wire as it is passing the sprocket? I thought there was a bracket that held the bunch of wires out of the way but I can't find the bracket. Maybe its lost, I'm not sure. Just curious how the wires are held off the sprocket.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
ok. so i picked up the 10 ohm resistors, they look similar to this pic.
I first took one resistor and wrapped each end around each end of the multimeter and got 10 ohms. I then took two resistors, wrapped the ends of two resistors around the multimeter and got 5 ohms. So the multimeter is working properly. I then tested the rotor again with the stator removed. I checked in a few different spots and got a max reading of 2.6ohms. The next step, which didnt go so well was to try to remove the rotor to see if i could get a diff reading if the rotor was removed. This is what happened to my rotor puller.
Here is what i did to try to remove it. I took the big end and threaded it on to the part that im calling the "crank threading" Big part is on and I did not remove the nut or lock washer that is at the end of the "crank threading" I then threaded the narrower part on until it bottomed out on the bolt. I had an adjustable wrench on the big part with a pipe holding it in place. I then put a 16mm socket on the small part, used a pipe for leverage and started tightening the small part down. I thought it started to pull loose but then i realized that the threading gave out on the little part. What did i do wrong? could it have been a case of weak threads in the little part of the rotor puller? Should i go to the hardware store and replace the little part with something that has stronger threads. Like a hardened bolt? I need to get the rotor off as it seems like I will be ordering a new one . Thanks
I first took one resistor and wrapped each end around each end of the multimeter and got 10 ohms. I then took two resistors, wrapped the ends of two resistors around the multimeter and got 5 ohms. So the multimeter is working properly. I then tested the rotor again with the stator removed. I checked in a few different spots and got a max reading of 2.6ohms. The next step, which didnt go so well was to try to remove the rotor to see if i could get a diff reading if the rotor was removed. This is what happened to my rotor puller.
Here is what i did to try to remove it. I took the big end and threaded it on to the part that im calling the "crank threading" Big part is on and I did not remove the nut or lock washer that is at the end of the "crank threading" I then threaded the narrower part on until it bottomed out on the bolt. I had an adjustable wrench on the big part with a pipe holding it in place. I then put a 16mm socket on the small part, used a pipe for leverage and started tightening the small part down. I thought it started to pull loose but then i realized that the threading gave out on the little part. What did i do wrong? could it have been a case of weak threads in the little part of the rotor puller? Should i go to the hardware store and replace the little part with something that has stronger threads. Like a hardened bolt? I need to get the rotor off as it seems like I will be ordering a new one . Thanks
You need to remove the nut and lock washer. These hold the rotor on. If the threads in the Big part are ok then replacing the inner part with a bolt will work.
The shaft and the hole in the rotor are tapered. It don't take much to get the rotor loose. It might move about 1/64th inch and be loose.
The shaft and the hole in the rotor are tapered. It don't take much to get the rotor loose. It might move about 1/64th inch and be loose.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
Is there a trick to gettin the nut loose. The motor is mounted but I don't have a new chain on, so I can't step on the brake and break the nut loose that way. Is there some way to stop the crank from rotating so I can bust the nut loose?
I have often gotten it loose by putting a end wrench on the nut, holding the rotor by hand and a sharp wack on the wrench with a hammer to loosen.
I picked up a cheap electric impact wrench at a truck load tool sale. They come around several times a year. At the county fairgrounds, the Grange hall, American Legion, Fire houses. Harbor Freight has them. Most places that sell tools probably sells them.
It's not real strong. It wouldn't get the lug nuts off the truck when I first got it. But the 3 foot breaker bar they sold me did.
It works very good for getting things apart on the bike.
Just hold the rotor by hand and a quick shot with the rattle gun and it comes right off.
I picked up a cheap electric impact wrench at a truck load tool sale. They come around several times a year. At the county fairgrounds, the Grange hall, American Legion, Fire houses. Harbor Freight has them. Most places that sell tools probably sells them.
It's not real strong. It wouldn't get the lug nuts off the truck when I first got it. But the 3 foot breaker bar they sold me did.
It works very good for getting things apart on the bike.
Just hold the rotor by hand and a quick shot with the rattle gun and it comes right off.
kent_in_kc
Heartlander
Impact wrenches are highly overrated for removing very tight fasteners. I second the long breaker bar. A good combination is to put the breaker bar on, pull hard on it, then while holding tension on it, whack the end of the socket with a hammer. The combination of torque and vibration can sometimes break loose a fastener that otherwise is just frozen.
Have you tried working some PB Blaster in there and letting it set for a while? Maybe heating it up with a heat gun (not a torch)?
Have you tried working some PB Blaster in there and letting it set for a while? Maybe heating it up with a heat gun (not a torch)?
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
I have not tried the heat gun or a material to break the bolt loose. Are you in agreement with the best way to keep the crank from rotating is too hold the rotor with your hand?
A strap wrench might work. Most any tool you might try, like a big pipe wrench can damage the rotor. If the rotor is damaged, getting it rewound might be a problem.
Can you install The drive chain and get some one to stand on the brake for you?
Can you install The drive chain and get some one to stand on the brake for you?
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
Got the rotor off pretty easily. Ran some wires and bike started on first kick. Then started on first kick several times afterwards. Working on uploading some video.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
I am having trouble getting my taillight to work. My tail light has a green and black wire. I think the green runs to the brake switch and the green runs to the power on the headlight. i dont have it grounded out, being that there are only two wires. Ive tried all different ways of tryin to wire the light. Could it not be working cause i dont have the tail light grounded out?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
As posted above....
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
youre right, i couldnt remember if someone gave me an answer. the ground worked. thanks for the heads up.
