New member, new project (Atlanta)

Looks like you have the same "tilted" tachometer issue that I've had. I've heard that the tach cable came in 2 slightly different lengths. Something to check. Turn the front end lock-to-lock to be sure yours is long enuff. I added a slight bend to my cable outer, right where it exits the tach, so that it wouldn't nudge against the headlight recess, allowing the tach to "un-tilt", and match the angle of the speedo...
 
Looks like you have the same "tilted" tachometer issue that I've had. I've heard that the tach cable came in 2 slightly different lengths. Something to check. Turn the front end lock-to-lock to be sure yours is long enuff. I added a slight bend to my cable outer, right where it exits the tach, so that it wouldn't nudge against the headlight recess, allowing the tach to "un-tilt", and match the angle of the speedo...

Ah interesting, I was wondering why it was off kilter. Could you elaborate a little on your solution?
 
This pic shows the *slightly* bent cable. They're pretty stiff. Be sure it's lubed well.

XS1B-TachCable.jpg

The tach's wiring and bottom 2 bulbs also like to clump behind the tach, and tend to push the bottom outward. Takes a bit to get that mess to lay flat and not press on the mount gasket.

Lastly, the mounting gasket, rubber pad thing, doesn't have as much rubber material at the top, versus the bottom. May need to add padding, and/or bend the sheet metal instrument mount. This is only one of many 'tweaky' things...
 
Ready for lift offffffffffff!!!!
Oil--check
valve clearance--check
carbs bench synced--check
throttle cables adjusted--check
cam chain tensioned--check (will have to do again once warm)
Static timing set--check
rear brake adjusted--check
front brakes--not so check... but who needs 'em! (seriously, bleeding the new set up ain't going smoothly)

Any other major things I should do to prep for the first start? Will probably be tomorrow morning (I'll try and do a video)

Here she sits waiting around:
IMG_2077.JPG
 
Man you do nice work! That looks like it just rolled off the assembly line. Kudos to you for saving it and keeping it so original. I just hate seeing the early models getting all hacked up.
Re: bleeding your brakes. Do you own a Mighty Vac?
image.jpeg

Maybe one of the best tools I own, makes bleeding brakes painless. However when I was bleeding my front caliper I couldn't figure out why I couldn't draw brake fluid out even though I had the bleeder very loose. Turns out my bleeder which didn't have a rubber cap on it was packed with old dirt. That also led to a front caliper rebuild, because it was filled with crud and corrosion. I don't remember if you have rebuilt your caliper or not, but if you haven't, I can pretty much guarantee it needs it.
Good luck with your start up tomorrow, fingers crossed!
 
Thanks! I have never done a full restoration before but I really wanted to save this one. I tried to do it correct, and I think I came pretty close!

That looks like a solid investment for the brakes. I may have to brake down and buy one. It's a brand new caliper and M/C and brake lines. All new components. I get plenty of fluid pumping through, but the lever won't stiffen all the way up. I can see the piston grabbing and retracting when I pump the lever. It just doesn't want to go the whole way or something.
 
Well I bought that brake bleeder tool and I'm sucking a ton of juice through the system but it ain't firming up at the handle :-(

Any other ideas? I've got my two young helpers working on it with me now and we're all stumped! regardless of whether we get the brake right, we're rolling this puppy outside and firing her up for the Fourth of July!
 
Pump the lever several times with the bleeder closed to build up pressure. Then, hold the lever down and open and close the bleeder quickly, before releasing the lever. Once the bleeder is closed, you can release the lever and repeat with more pumping. Make sure the MC reservoir doesn't run below the min line. This will guarantee that the pressure is always coming from the MC.

I have that Mityvac tool but I've never had good luck with it. It always shows me bubbles even when there aren't any. I just don't trust bleeding brakes when there isn't pressure coming from the master cylinder. The nice thing about doing this on a bike is you can work the lever and the bleeder at the same time by yourself! Hmm. Maybe I just need to make some friends. :cool:

Oh and by the way, massive kudos! She's looking absolutely gorgeous. Very nice work!
 
Keep at the bleeding, with all new parts there is lots of air in there and I may just take awhile to work it out.

One thing that sometimes helps is, if you can get any pressure, use something to hold the brake lever full on over night. Like a small bungy cord or heavy rubber band. I think keeping the air in the line and stuff under pressure helps encourage it to work it's way up hill to the master.
 
Randy at Marbles Motors did the paint - here is a link to the ebay auction that turned me on to him. Wasn't cheap, but it was done right. I've got various leftover xs2 parts I'm gonna sell at some point, let me know if you are looking for anything!
 
Randy at Marbles Motors did the paint - here is a link to the ebay auction that turned me on to him. Wasn't cheap, but it was done right. I've got various leftover xs2 parts I'm gonna sell at some point, let me know if you are looking for anything!
The bike hast arrive yet so I’m not positive on all things that I need but he did say it was complete except for the seat. So if u have one or any leads on one let me know.
 
A seat is one of the things I don't have, sorry. More like fender stays (front and rear), a front fender (tweaked but not too badly), wheel, and other various odds and ends
 
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