Nylon screws

Here's a simplified diagram from Tech that shows the type A pretty well.


View attachment 232322

Got a problem Jim, about to do the wiring and both your diagrams have the black wire going different places.
In one it's going to a brush In the other the brown wire is going to a brush.
What's the go mate?
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Black is ground... earth..
Prolly best to cover that wire terminal with heat shrink or something and tie it off back up the harness. Then it's always there so you can revert back to the other regulator type.
 
Black is ground... earth..
Prolly best to cover that wire terminal with heat shrink or something and tie it off back up the harness. Then it's always there so you can revert back to the other regulator type.

Ok yeah mate , doing a wire by wire job here as we speak. 2.15pm here.
I've just ordered 20 amp fuse and holder as well as a couple of BP7ES they're being delivered soon.
Black from regulator I'll earth to the bikes frame .
Black from the brush I will connect the brown spade to plug into the connector to join the black wire from the brush.
I'll also solder a wire from switched power to the brown wire before it goes into the connector.
Nylon screws are in place.
Didn't loctite them cos one day they'll need to be undone for brush change...or is it best to put a dab of loctite on them?
Once all that's done and insulated I'll bolt the RR unit back in place....err no I'll leave it loose for now in case it is RS cos some smoke did escape a few weeks ago...
If it's not charging after this then I'll go the car regulator but I'll cross that bridge if I get to it.
Thank You....hopefully this thread may help if you get someone else as unelectrical as me again.....No one could be but!
 
I'll also solder a wire from switched power to the brown wire before it goes into the connector.
You should already have a switched brown at the reg connector. It's there for both the old and new style regulators. You just need to add to that one and run it down to the brush.


1671683788570.png
 
WOOHOO 🎉
She's charging!!!
Was intially showing 15-16 volts at battery with multimeter, it's hard to hold two probes and rec the bike.
Come back down to 12.4 with lights on and revving engine.
 
I think the key may have been re-grounding the black wire running into the reg/rec after doing away with it's original ground source from the inner brush. Although the wiring diagrams show that black ground wire tying into many other ground wires, in reality it doesn't on many of the older models. The black wire running from the inner brush is the only ground supply to the regulator.
 
WOOHOO 🎉
She's charging!!!
Was intially showing 15-16 volts at battery with multimeter, it's hard to hold two probes and rec the bike.
Come back down to 12.4 with lights on and revving engine.

15 -- 16 can be charging with no regulating
12,4 can be no charging ( and no regulating ) aka Battery Voltage

Should be around 14 V with 2 .5--- 3 k rpm .
 
15 -- 16 can be charging with no regulating
12,4 can be no charging ( and no regulating ) aka Battery Voltage

Should be around 14 V with 2 .5--- 3 k rpm .

Yeah well think I might've jumped the gun!
In my enthusiasm to see an initial high charge that levelled off to a low.
I checked before I left this evening battery was showing 12.7 static.
Rode the 22kms to my destination in daylight, light off.
Couple hours later started the return trip LED headlight on low beam ( plenty bright enough) 22kms later(14miles)
Arrived home took seat off and checked static voltage 12.3 volts.
Start engine 12.1 light off
Rev it up 11.6 with headlight on .....errrrrrrr, not good😒
Gotta be a crook R/R unit hey?

Still was good to actually ride it somewhere and get home at night.....probably wouldn't have got much more out of it before Id have to turn the headlight off to keep the ignition operating and wing it back without a headlight .

So what's the simplest car reg/rec unit I could rig up that'd do the job and give me charge to ride night and day???
 
Well not read through all so apologize if wrong
If this was me
I would start with measure the resistance between slip rings on rotor
I would then try to find a stock Yamaha regulator if such a thing is with the bike purchase
It has its shortcomings but if present it is easy to plug in se if that changes anything.

If i get this right you have the pre 1980 alternator
and now with the Nylon screws in.

My guess is ( Right or wrong ) is that the rectifier part is OK in the combo and perhaps the regulator toast
but unsure.

Then what rectifier and or regulator -- It is 2 Separate parts -Is the best for you depends as I see it on what can be bought over counter where you live
Gold Coast Aus have a skyline and is fairly big place ( Wish I was there right now in the shade at the beach )

May I suggest you google here at the forum about type No s the boys have found working '
Print that paper out taking it with you to a reputable auto supplier .. asking for a senior person .. slam that paper on the counter
Asking him to sell you one regulator and rectifier that is matched. Last time i bought i payed around 10 -- 15 $ US
For the regulator
he can have problems with the rectifier but then it is a electrical supplier or online.
Be careful about which pin goes where it is not always the same position
So the ones here on the forum is probably simpler install and Use.


The ones I have been using looks like that

Bosch 3 pin was very common here

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180984113664

s-l500.jpg
 
Well not read through all so apologize if wrong
If this was me
I would start with measure the resistance between slip rings on rotor
I would then try to find a stock Yamaha regulator if such a thing is with the bike purchase
It has its shortcomings but if present it is easy to plug in se if that changes anything.

If i get this right you have the pre 1980 alternator
and now with the Nylon screws in.

My guess is ( Right or wrong ) is that the rectifier part is OK in the combo and perhaps the regulator toast
but unsure.

Then what rectifier and or regulator -- It is 2 Separate parts -Is the best for you depends as I see it on what can be bought over counter where you live
Gold Coast Aus have a skyline and is fairly big place ( Wish I was there right now in the shade at the beach )

May I suggest you google here at the forum about type No s the boys have found working '
Print that paper out taking it with you to a reputable auto supplier .. asking for a senior person .. slam that paper on the counter
Asking him to sell you one regulator and rectifier that is matched. Last time i bought i payed around 10 -- 15 $ US
For the regulator
he can have problems with the rectifier but then it is a electrical supplier or online.
Be careful about which pin goes where it is not always the same position
So the ones here on the forum is probably simpler install and Use.


The ones I have been using looks like that

Bosch 3 pin was very common here

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180984113664

View attachment 232470
Thanks
Rotor has been rewound.
Replaced the stator with a good one.
It's pre 80 so I've used nylon screws and followed the wiring instructions of the people that know their stuff here.
Comes down to the Solid State R/R unit being bung I think.
While doing a suggested test procedure some smoke escaped from it...
We all know the smoke is valuable and things won't work properly once it escaped.
Someone will tell me exactly what to buy and how to wire it up.. I hope.
Till then it's daytime jaunts or ride one of my two big V twin Victory's...
Just need some precise info on my next move...
 
I think the key may have been re-grounding the black wire running into the reg/rec after doing away with it's original ground source from the inner brush. Although the wiring diagrams show that black ground wire tying into many other ground wires, in reality it doesn't on many of the older models. The black wire running from the inner brush is the only ground supply to the regulator.

ok mate, Ill show you what Ive just ordered off ebay, after much checking part numbers and seeing whats available in Australia.
Presume theyre chinese and dunno if theyre metal screw or nylon screw compatible.
But from what else it fits my guess is similar to the RR32 thats on the bike now and not functioning correctly cos it lost its valuable smoke!
So it'll wire up same as with nylon screws....and hopefully bloody well work!!!
, here we go...
Says out of stock cos I bought the last one....https://www.ebay.com/itm/332667249290

To further mess up my serenity the yellow Victory Kingpins started playing up, stalling , revs jumping up n down...and its not very user friendly.
First go to on them it clean and retighten battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged.....DONE!
Plus I filled the tank with Premium Unleaded and dosed it with Methylated Spirit (96% Alcohol) to clean out the fuel system and injectors.
Ill throw a pair of fresh spark plugs in tomorrow too.
Merry Christmas to All
 
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ok mate, Ill show you what Ive just ordered off ebay, after much checking part numbers and seeing whats available in Australia.
Presume theyre chinese and dunno if theyre metal screw or nylon screw compatible.
But from what else it fits my guess is similar to the RR32 thats on the bike now and not functioning correctly cos it lost its valuable smoke!
So it'll wire up same as with nylon screws....and hopefully bloody well work!!!
, here we go...
Says out of stock cos I bought the last one....https://www.ebay.com/itm/332667249290

To further mess up my serenity the yellow Victory Kingpins started playing up, stalling , revs jumping up n down...and its not very user friendly.
First go to on them it clean and retighten battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged.....DONE!
Plus I filled the tank with Premium Unleaded and dosed it with Methylated Spirit (96% Alcohol) to clean out the fuel system and injectors.
Ill throw a pair of fresh spark plugs in tomorrow too.
Merry Christmas to All

Still not read through
But according to Jim who usually get it right this RR is for an Post 1980 Model Post #91

it is listed as
For Yamaha XS650 1978-1983

I would believe Mr Jim more at this point in time Since there is 2 different versions no the same 1978-1983

Your bike is as I understand it pre 1980

So that wording -->
So it'll wire up same as with nylon screws....and hopefully bloody well work!!!

Is that with or without nylon screws Now ?
I myself hooked up a post 80 regulator on a pre 80 bike No Nylon screws and fried the regulator
At power on. ( I believe ). Got my money back

So it is important not to mix these up We don't have pictures so we don't know what alternator you have.
You don't get a second chance and can be watching the Blue expensive smoke again

If you believe Mr Jim it is one setup
If you believe that --> For Yamaha XS650 1978-1983 ( which I don't having fried one myself )
It is another

Please be careful .. Perhaps call the seller ..So he will refund you should it go wrong..
 
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