Oil Filters

You appear to have one loose, you have to take the other bolt circled in red loose, then as 5t stated the fastener to separate the caliper and bracket is on the back. IMG_2866.jpeg
 
Thanks, but that top nut is not connected to the calipers. There is actually another nut below it. The calipers are attached to this. In any regard, the same component on the rear wheel is much larger and I think would entail me taking the entire wheel off to get this loose. ... and it would leave me with the same problem of each set of calipers being stuck to their respective rotors.
 

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I believe you, I'm a babe in the hoods. Thing is, I've watched a few videos of guys removing the calipers from their Yamaha 650xs, but different model years, and they removed two bolts per caliper pair and the danged things slid right off the rotors.
 
Yes, the two bolts that hold the caliper BRACKET to the forks. You can break the single bolt loose that holds the caliper to the bracket but no need to remove it for the caliper AND bracket to come off.

On the rear, you don't need to remove the wheel but you do need to remove the axle. The rear caliper bracket fits on it and acts as a wheel spacer. Again, you remove the caliper AND bracket together, remove the one bolt in the front that holds the caliper to the bracket, then flip it around, remove that Phillips screw in the back, and the caliper should lift off the bracket, leaving the pads on the bracket.
 
I may watch a You tube video to get the jest of what's going on but I always go back and study the darn thing with my own eyes and try to understand what the manual is trying to explain as they normally give you a step by step instructions. Don't rely on the You Tube guys completely as they may be giving you the wrong advice.

You say the caliper will not budge. Does your wheel turn or is it locked up due to stuck pistons. Im assuming you cant move the bike from you info.
 
Is the rotor worn so there’s a ridge on the outer edge that the pads are getting hung up on? If the bolts are removed there’s no reason the assembly shouldn’t be removable.
 
You can remove old, stuck on gaskets with paint stripper. It softens them up and makes them easy to scrape off without damaging the part. It may take a couple applications to completely remove the old gasket. "Paint" it on, let it soak for about 10 to 15 minutes, then scrape off the portion of gasket that has softened. Repeat as need be.
 
I no longer clean the sump strainer. Every bike I ever owned had one, and none of them were serviceable, so why start now? I did fix the torn original. Checked the new one a few times. All good, so I leave it alone. If the motor is shedding enough bits to clog it you have far more serious issues.
 
I no longer clean the sump strainer. Every bike I ever owned had one, and none of them were serviceable, so why start now? I did fix the torn original. Checked the new one a few times. All good, so I leave it alone. If the motor is shedding enough bits to clog it you have far more serious issues.
I ride this bike very little in a season, not even enough to warrant an oil change, but as a matter of PM I change the oil filter and drop the sump plate prior to winter storage. I haven’t found any bits in there yet. Just gives me peace of mind (and something to do in the late fall).
 
Yo, yo.....
Yo.

I'm not sure where to reply on this thread. I hope I'm Still in the right spot!
I removed the brakes! I took off the entire front bracket 'cause it was easy. And then the calipers came off! I could then see that the screw 5twins mentioned did indeed hold the calipers in place. So I managed to get the screw off of the rear calipers (which took a good deal of WD40 and finesse) and now I am good to go! I will order the parts for both the oil filters and the brakes.

Thanks, everyone!!
 
Yes, you did! I was just reluctant to try it again, 'cause I tried moving the screw on both caliper sets on my first day of this and they wouldn't budge. I was afraid of stripping them. Thanks, dudeski!
 
Yes, just standard dot3 brake fluid, but if you want a bit better (higher boiling point), you can use dot4. Don't use the silicone based dot5, not worth the extra money and a hassle to install the first time (must totally flush and clean the system of all dot3/4).
 
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