Hey, could someone tell me why i still have a leak after replacing the clutch push rod seal? i have checked the rod to match sure it wasnt bent, i made sure that the rod was clean and i cleaned the area of any grime.THANK YOU for any input
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Dogger
XS650 Addict
This is why some guys recommend you buy them 2 at a time. Almost guaranteed it won't work the 1st time.
Was it leaking right away? If so it probably got damaged during install. To help chamfer the edge of the aluminum b4 you put it in. Use a knife or dremel or something like that.
If it started leaking a little while after install, it's possible it's time to replace the little bushing behind the seal, you have to drill the old one out.
As this bushing wears, your push rod will move around more wrecking the seal. Also consider changing to a long push rod, it's cheap and easy to do.
All these parts come from Mikes xs, and don't feel bad everyone of us has been there or is going there!
Was it leaking right away? If so it probably got damaged during install. To help chamfer the edge of the aluminum b4 you put it in. Use a knife or dremel or something like that.
If it started leaking a little while after install, it's possible it's time to replace the little bushing behind the seal, you have to drill the old one out.
As this bushing wears, your push rod will move around more wrecking the seal. Also consider changing to a long push rod, it's cheap and easy to do.
All these parts come from Mikes xs, and don't feel bad everyone of us has been there or is going there!
I just ordered another one, should be here this week,you said i should consider changing to the one peice push rod, can it be changed without splitting the case? I know all about Mikesxs thats where i had to get most of my rebuild parts Thanks
Gordon
XS650 Junkie
The one- piece rod is a good up-grade. You should also change the bushing for the rod thats under the seal you just replaced. Do it like it's suggested on Mike's XS page, work's everytime. Yes, the rod and bushing both can be replaced without splitting the case's. About the only time you need to split the case is doing transmission or lower crank shaft work.
If your new seal is still fully seated and leaking around the push rod have you filled the motor with too much oil?
If you put the new one in and it blew back out did you use any type of adhesive?
Did you camfer the edge of the hole so it didn't rip the lip seal on the outside?
Your bike could have the one piece rod already depending on the year.
If it has the 2 pc. rod and ball and you didn't change the bushing that could be it.
Is there side to side slop when you move it?
If you are seeing the leak on the floor maybe it isn't the pushrod seal, but the coutershaft seal instead.
If you put the new one in and it blew back out did you use any type of adhesive?
Did you camfer the edge of the hole so it didn't rip the lip seal on the outside?
Your bike could have the one piece rod already depending on the year.
If it has the 2 pc. rod and ball and you didn't change the bushing that could be it.
Is there side to side slop when you move it?
If you are seeing the leak on the floor maybe it isn't the pushrod seal, but the coutershaft seal instead.
Beean123, If you put your bikes year, model and mods in your signature it will make helping you easier for us.
As others have said you might have messed up the seal on installation. Not hard to do.
If you are replacing the seal and the bushing, thats a good time to change the two piece rod for the one piece.
When you get the seal and bushing out, one of those magnets on a telescoping rod with a 1/4 inch magnet will reach in the push rod hole and easily pull out the middle ball and other piece of rod. Pulling out the second ball just to be sure one is in there is a good idea. Once you get as much pulled out as the magnet can, put in one ball.
Now put in the bushing and seal.
I use a #3 Phillips head screwdriver and a 5/16 inch fender washer. Slip the washer on the screwdriver, slip the seal on the screwdriver. Now slip the screwdriver into the pushrod hole. The screwdriver helps drive the seal in straight. The washer stops the seal from being pushed too far. Just a firm push by hand should seat the seal. A thin coat of Three Bond on the outside of the seal helps the seal go in easier, and definitly seal the seal to the case.
Also check the tightness of your sprocket nut, If loose oil can leak out thru the sleeve between the sprocket and the gear inside the tranny. 72-87 ft/lbs.
As others have said you might have messed up the seal on installation. Not hard to do.
If you are replacing the seal and the bushing, thats a good time to change the two piece rod for the one piece.
When you get the seal and bushing out, one of those magnets on a telescoping rod with a 1/4 inch magnet will reach in the push rod hole and easily pull out the middle ball and other piece of rod. Pulling out the second ball just to be sure one is in there is a good idea. Once you get as much pulled out as the magnet can, put in one ball.
Now put in the bushing and seal.
I use a #3 Phillips head screwdriver and a 5/16 inch fender washer. Slip the washer on the screwdriver, slip the seal on the screwdriver. Now slip the screwdriver into the pushrod hole. The screwdriver helps drive the seal in straight. The washer stops the seal from being pushed too far. Just a firm push by hand should seat the seal. A thin coat of Three Bond on the outside of the seal helps the seal go in easier, and definitly seal the seal to the case.
Also check the tightness of your sprocket nut, If loose oil can leak out thru the sleeve between the sprocket and the gear inside the tranny. 72-87 ft/lbs.
erice1984
XS650 Member
I think I have the same problem, I have pictures to help.
I leak oil, a fair amount too. I just road the bike 3 miles since I got the carbs and filters cleaned and new tires put on.
I still need to change the oil but can't seem to find OEM oil filters anywhere. I noticed one person saying you can clean the oil filter. I don't know if cleaning the oil filter is a good idea.
Here are the pictures and where I believe the oil is coming from. I also have a video I posted on youtube while I wiggle the shaft around. Let me know if that is too much play in the shaft.
I leak oil, a fair amount too. I just road the bike 3 miles since I got the carbs and filters cleaned and new tires put on.
I still need to change the oil but can't seem to find OEM oil filters anywhere. I noticed one person saying you can clean the oil filter. I don't know if cleaning the oil filter is a good idea.
Here are the pictures and where I believe the oil is coming from. I also have a video I posted on youtube while I wiggle the shaft around. Let me know if that is too much play in the shaft.
Gordon
XS650 Junkie
There is definately too much play. You would need to go to Mike'sXS.com and get the seal and the bushing. While your there, go with the long push rod set also. It replace's the 2 small rod's, alot less play with the long rod set-up. And, likeLeo stated, make sure your chain sprocket is tight, 'cause it will leak if it's loose. Just flatten the lock tab and tighten 'er up.While you are on Mike's site, read about how to change the bushing, that method work's everytime. If you look at the photo, the center of your sprocket shaft is soaked with oil, so I'll wager that sprocket is loose.
crazyazsredneck
XS650 Addict
i just got mikes oil cooler. seems like he has the slump filter to. mine is leaking also .but need clutches first
Erice1984, The stock oil "filters" more like screens, can be cleaned. Thats the way they were designed. The large one in the sump often tears. It can be replaced or repaired. The small one in the right side cover hardly ever gets torn. It can be replaced too.
Mike's or 650central has them. You can find them on Ebay, usually cost more though.
Mike's or 650central has them. You can find them on Ebay, usually cost more though.
Hello erice 1984, thanks for the reply, yes, that is the same thing i have going on, i have the same amount of play, i just ordered all the parts from mikesxs. as far as the filters i bought mine at the yamaha dealer,and im changing my oil over to asmoil 20w/50 if you want check ouy my website; bntsynthetics.com, thanks
Thank you for your reply, i will let you know how it turns out.yes, i have been doing alot of reading on how to make repairs on the bike, not quite riding weather here, but sure is getting closer, and gas at $3.65 a gallon, i want to be ready
Beean123, where are you that high test is $3.65 per, I wish it was that cheap. It's over $4 here. Regular is $3.73.
