Seals, seals and more seals.
Finally made some progress yesterday and today.
Back on Nov.15, 2017 Jim said this......
If it were me, I'd replace every seal in it while you got it out. They're 40 yrs old... how much longer do you want to run em...
Of course, I said this……..
Ah Dadgummit Jim.............ya.
Started with the easy ones, the camshaft seals. Pushed them out with a 26mm socket.
Then pushed the new ones in using 5twins plywood in a vice trick…….very easy, great tip 5twins..
Onto the clutch push rod seal and bearing. In spite of being somewhat reluctant to take a drill bit to my engine case everything went according to Hoyle.
Used the shorter outer pushrod as a guide with a 8mm socket to seat the new XS650Direct bushing.
When researching this I came across a post by 2M linking to another about using a Dremel with a ball stone to chamfer the case for the new bushing. Worked great. Lost a wee wisker of seal when installing, and one tap too many on the socket/seal driver, but I think I’ll be OK. If not and it does leak, easy enough to replace with the spare in one of the parts boxes.
NOS long push rod installed.
Next up, countershaft seal.
Rooted around in the plumbing box and rigged up a seal driver from some 1 ½” ABS parts.
Now to the crank seal.
One of the stator screws broke free by hand, needed the hand impact for the other one.
After stator removal, an electric impact had the nut off, and the rotor pulled slick as can be.
Bob, I read through your 60th birthday present thread on you doing this job and used your tip to prevent nicking the case.
This seal did not want to give it up. Took a lot more effort than the other two.
I thought I could finish it off without my block and got a nick…...ah well, cleaned it up with a small file.
Did some more rooting around in the plumbing box and rigged up another seal driver.
Last one, tach drive seal and o-ring. 5twins suggestion to hold the tach drive shaft in place with an awl worked great. This pulled out with no effort whatsoever which when looking at the condition of the o-ring is understandable.
Boy that tach drive seal was a tough little beggar as well. Bent up a little dedicated tach drive seal puller. Tried to push it out but prying was easier.
Used a ¼” 8mm socket seal driver.
So, new seal and o-ring. Interesting that the new OEM o-ring doesn’t appear to fill the gap a whole lot better than the original but it did 'pop’ and seat nicely into place on install.
Hopefully I’m leakproof now.
Tested the rotor slip rings.
Slip rings 6.0 ohms
Leads 0.6 ohms
Result 5.4 ohms
So it looks like my rotor is good which makes sense as my Voltmeter always showed things were working fine.
Ran out of time today so I will pull the brushes and measure/replace if necessary tomorrow.
Of course I have a few questions.
Haven’t really been able to find an answer I like to this one regarding the countershaft sprocket nut. I have seen the chain trick in the Haynes manual, pg.60……and don’t know that I like the looks of that.
Could maybe do something like this with a socket on the bottom teeth? Old sprocket shown for illustrative purposes, new sprocket will be installed. Although I'm not sure that looks much better than the chain method.
1. Is there any good way to tighten that nut up to 90 ft. lbs. with the engine on the bench or should I wait until it’s back in the bike, new chain installed and use the rear brake? How do you guys do this?
2. Same question regarding the rotor nut. I could get buddy to hold the rotor wearing a pair of gloves.This appears to be another one that Yamaha changed the torque setting on over the years. I have read anywhere from 25.5 to 58 ft. lbs.
What is the accepted torque setting on this, should I wait until it's back in the bike and use the brake again, do you guys have a trick on how to do this?
3. Also thinking ahead as I’m getting real close to reassembly I do have another question.
I know I can do the static timing on the bench with an ohmmeter but was wondering If I could jumper my battery to the points wires bullet connectors and use a bulb? Any reason not to do this?
And one more question.
4. Before I start reassembly thought I'd better check with you guys on this. I have read that it is seldom necessary to replace the rear cam chain guide/tensioner as the rubber is much more robust.
4. Does this one look ok, or should I get a Mike's/XS650Direct replacement as much as that pains me?
Sorry for all the questions guys, but I'm not sure about these things and want to get it right.
Thanks again for all your help.
Oh, and before doing these seals I spun it around 180° and polished up the right side case a bit.
It’s a lot easier on the bench rather than in the bike. DAMHIKT