D, stock springs aren't straight rate, they're dual rate, and IIRC the rate is around .65 kg/mm in the heavy windings and around .45 kg/mm in the light windings. At your rider weight you'll need .8 kg/mm true straight rate springs if you've lightened your bike, probably .85 if it's at stock weight. I'm going to write this again: emulators achieve variable damping in response to different irregularities, and that response depends on tighter springs. Springs that feel too stiff without variable damping won't feel that way with emulators in place; variable damping smooths out the ride. Bottom line: emulators do well what dual rate springs do badly.
Minton's fork mods were the best you could do with damper rod forks before Paul Thede invented his emulator valves. If you want optimum performance in the front end, get the Race Tech valves, follow the directions, and read the Total Control Training ebook to learn how to set your sag. The suspension is a system and it all has to work together.
Gary, the real proof of the pudding is to find a tight, bumpy corner and see what happens when you turn up the wick out of the apex. If your scoot holds the line, you know that your suspension is compliant; it's keeping the rubber hooked up to the road. If the bike walks to the outside, you're losing adhesion and still have work to do. You have to get a little frisky with the bike to do that, and yours was just too pretty for me to risk dropping it!
