I've used easy outs I don't know, 30 times? yes busted a few, One FT500 head was the worst, they are notorious for a bolt next to the exhaust port. .... That was the only time in my long career I took a part to be EDM'd But overall It's not the tool so much as the operator.
My short list.
#1 don't break bolts!
Use lube
Use shock
Go BOTH directions as often as needed when that ut oh, metal binding feeling happens, more lube!
STOP and THINK before going gonzo.
Heat.
Is there another way?
Do I REALLY need to do this? Was just working on a chain saw, wanted to look at the piston, so was removing the muffler, one bolt deep in wasn't releasing even with the impact wrench. Stopped, thought. I have good compression, saw runs good, do I really NEED to see that piston? Nope buttoned it back up.
OK the bolt is stuck. Can I drill/grind off the head to remove the part? Then I'll have good access to the problem. Heat, side shocking, welding are all better options with access.
Alright the bolt snapped, schmidt! Can I weld a nut on the remains? This is a 2fer the nut closer to the threads improves the odds, the heat from welding often breaks the corrosion bonds.
Can I dremel a screwdriver slot in the bolt stub? Often the bolt breaking has loosened the thread and the remains are easy to remove.
No can do, we gotta drill, LH drill bits! and CENTER CENTER CENTER the drilled hole in the bolt.
Grind the bolt stub flat, center punch lightly, check for center, you can move the center mark by angling the punch using repeated light blows till the mark is where it should be.
Use the removed part and a bushing over the drill bit to keep the bit straight and centered. GO big, work your way up the LH drill bit sizes before using the easy out. Way more often than not, the LH drill bit brings the bolt remains out before the easy out is needed.
This is it, I've drilled to near the thread ID, the bolt hasn't moved. LOOK at your easy out size. How much torque can that little piece of hard steel take? Twist it in, tap with a hammer to set. repeat. remember how small the easy out is, stop twisting BEFORE you snap it off. Not working? Stop! You have a centered hole, drill to the tap size, get the tap, remove the spirals of bolt thread that remain. Stop often blow out the swarf while tapping.
At each step think about the problem you will have if you fuggle the casting, slow down think it almost always is easier to get the right tools, take your time, than rebuilding a big $$$ aluminum casting.
Other options.
Is the bolt REALLY needed? can I just say eh it'll work without it. Can I tap inside the bolt remains and use a smaller bolt to do the job? Hey it's just creating a gasket seal how big does it NEED to be?
There, that's my morning diatribe. Carry on.
Gotta get downstairs the "milwaukee iron"
easy wake up HAH! is
seriously scattered about on the lift, I had to replace the shift shaft
. An eff'n PO used the wrong shift lever and rounded the splines off the shaft, grr.