HYUNDAI ECM

Stock air filter (new) and no mice inside just a coupla nuts.
Just found evidence in my glovebox that they're still with me though.
A few weeks ago I blew the engine compartment out with the leaf blower
hoping I'd deprive their food supply and they'd leave, engine compartment
was stashed with a lot of food. I'm going to have to take stronger measures.
Have not found any chewed wires as of yet.
1 new code showed up P2414 O2 SENSOR EXHAUST ERROR SENSOR 1
All these sensors have been replaced.
Thinking of it now. Friday I had tightened the alt belt it squeaked a few times splashing through the snow/slush.
About an inch wort of play.
And I topped off the battery, slow 2 amp, the car was definitely happier.
Low battery amperage? Or would that not matter with it running because of the alt?
Alternator was also replaced.
Ok, new task. Load test bat and check charging voltage.
Yup, talking to myself again. :laugh:
 
No new codes. Bat at 12V. Load tested 15 seconds dropped to 11.5V returned to 12V when I let go of the load. Charging at 14.5 at both idle and fast idle. All sensors are new. I did think mass air flow due to symptoms spray cleaned connectors and used MAF spray on the element. No joy. 50s this weekend going after wires at fuseblock and get to pcm also look for interior grounds.
 
...also look for interior grounds.

Is the starter working as it should? Not dragging?

The starter working tells us the engine to frame and frame to batt grounding is good, otherwise the starter would drag or not work at all.
Although I'm a strong proponent of checking/cleaning ALL grounds, I'd concentrate my search on the smaller 18-16ga ground wires.
 
Mice n wires............ Not good, took me two years to trace down where a rodent had nibbled a canbus wire that nixied the AC on the Sprinter van.
Camped out in Montana saw the little bastard leaving from beneath the van and found the gnawing that fubared the diesel fuel supply warning system the next day AFTER a fuel filter R&R. But didn't use the AC for a long time (We're northerners) so putting two and two together was a long process. Canbus is great but it can sure bollix up fault tracing. After several hours head down in the factory service manual, I finally found the place to look.
Cleaning mice nests out of the Prius cabin filter an annual rite. So far they haven't gotten a taste for Toyota wiring.
 
Thank you all for the advice and insight. The starter seems to be working fine, sound and effect. I did find and clean 2 ground wires in the engine bay, one large braded by the battery box and another much smaller one from the engine to body on the passenger side. No sign of chewed wires yet, the engine compartment is unmolested, but it's cold out there. The car sat for 10 months IIRC, before that no mice as far as I know. She was very musty when I got her, I plugged a dehumidifier in a few times to help dry her out. Worst was the first time, it drew a quart in about five hours. Never more than a cup since then. What's under the dash may be a whole different story as far as nibbling mice but so far nothing. I will rip it all apart this weekend and find out for sure.
It's got Calif emissions, the real question was... If I get a PCM from a car with Calif emissions, do I need to have it flashed or should it be plug and play?
Next step is going into the cabin. loose connectors grounds and get the number from the pcm. Mabey crack it open and look at the board for melted terminals or shorts. Gotta tell you... I love modern technology. :banghead: And I thought rewiring the bike was fun. :shootme: Yay!
 
the real question was... If I get a PCM fro...

Have you tried Rock auto? I buy expensive stuff like computers from them. Can't swear to it, but in the back of my mind I'm thinking they'll sell you the right one based on your vehicle. Maybe they ask for part of the VIN?... dunno, but I'd try something like that or ask at your parts store. There's gotta be some way for 'em to know if a cali box is plug and play or needs flashing.

Fwiw, I'm guessin' it's plug and play.
 
Thank you all for the advice and insight. The starter seems to be working fine, sound and effect. I did find and clean 2 ground wires in the engine bay, one large braded by the battery box and another much smaller one from the engine to body on the passenger side. No sign of chewed wires yet, the engine compartment is unmolested, but it's cold out there. The car sat for 10 months IIRC, before that no mice as far as I know. She was very musty when I got her, I plugged a dehumidifier in a few times to help dry her out. Worst was the first time, it drew a quart in about five hours. Never more than a cup since then. What's under the dash may be a whole different story as far as nibbling mice but so far nothing. I will rip it all apart this weekend and find out for sure.
It's got Calif emissions, the real question was... If I get a PCM from a car with Calif emissions, do I need to have it flashed or should it be plug and play?
Next step is going into the cabin. loose connectors grounds and get the number from the pcm. Mabey crack it open and look at the board for melted terminals or shorts. Gotta tell you... I love modern technology. :banghead: And I thought rewiring the bike was fun. :shootme: Yay!
JD
disconnct your ECT (engine coolant temp sensor)
This will force open loop.

we go from there
 
JD
disconnct your ECT (engine coolant temp sensor)
This will force open loop.

we go from there
Thanks AUTOMAN. Idea being the car will run on factory presets only and the pcm will not communicate?
At that point what misbehaves is a possible culprit???
 
Thanks AUTOMAN. Idea being the car will run on factory presets only and the pcm will not communicate?
At that point what misbehaves is a possible culprit???
pcm still works, just the o2 f/a feedback is disabled
narrows down or isolates any fuel trims, long or short term.
then we are off to the races with any sensor faults, exc. ECT of course.

but do not race around, the default ECT temp may be 25°C which would start knocking when pressed hard
depends what idiot did the base calibration
Scanner would be nice to read ECT/ACT/MAF/PW/O2 volts/ la dee da

BTW this should have a MAF and a MAP sensor. Look for the MAP to confirm.

cliff
 
I can pull the ECT at next brake and idle it a bit, won't be able to drive till this afternoon.
My scanner will give me live data, fuel trim etc but I don't know the acceptable parameters.
That may be listed in my shop manual but I doubt it.
 
I can pull the ECT at next brake and idle it a bit, won't be able to drive till this afternoon.
My scanner will give me live data, fuel trim etc but I don't know the acceptable parameters.
That may be listed in my shop manual but I doubt it.
send it over when u get the info
photo
 
Will do. I couldn't get to the ECT without tools,
so I'll pull that when I get home, Had to clear codes before I left this morning as it was
running like :poo: on the way home yesterday. It'll have about 20 mi on it
when I get home. I'll read codes and the live data and get it written down.
 
Have you tried Rock auto? I buy expensive stuff like computers from them. Can't swear to it, but in the back of my mind I'm thinking they'll sell you the right one based on your vehicle. Maybe they ask for part of the VIN?... dunno, but I'd try something like that or ask at your parts store. There's gotta be some way for 'em to know if a cali box is plug and play or needs flashing.

Fwiw, I'm guessin' it's plug and play.
Thanks Jim.
Took a look, remans with warranties not bad at all, under $200 but still say the need reprograming.
For that price though it's a safer bet than fleabay.
 
I pulled in the driveway ang got this off live data.
1707393947204.png


So I pulled the ECT. No start :yikes: WTF?
Plug it back in, no start :yikes::yikes:WTF???
Ok dummy what'd you do? :umm:
Oh hey what about that big grey plug you unhooked to get to the ECT :doh:
Unhooked the ETC and reconnected the other vroom. YAY!
Took it around the block it holds idle but does get close to 400RPM which is stall rate but pops back to 700/800RPM.
At least I don't have to two foot drive.
Still stumbles at all rpms, much more at lower rpm like when gently cruising/coasting with foot just barely on the gas (buck stumble buck)
Reading 2 codes P0170 AND P0102 mass air and fuel trim respectively
Wants a little throttle to start or will start and die.
Both fans run consistently, I unplugged them.
It's below 50° for highs and when I go to work it's in the 20s one stop light into town one on the way out.
I'll run the heat on high to cool the engine figuring less draw than the 2 fans.
The wife got the day off so I took her car today. Just want to avoid tickets and especially court surcharges.
No reports till tomorrow but I'll find out how she runs cold to hot and get any codes.
.
 
I pulled in the driveway ang got this off live data.
View attachment 261325

So I pulled the ECT. No start :yikes: WTF?
Plug it back in, no start :yikes::yikes:WTF???
Ok dummy what'd you do? :umm:
Oh hey what about that big grey plug you unhooked to get to the ECT :doh:
Unhooked the ETC and reconnected the other vroom. YAY!
Took it around the block it holds idle but does get close to 400RPM which is stall rate but pops back to 700/800RPM.
At least I don't have to two foot drive.
Still stumbles at all rpms, much more at lower rpm like when gently cruising/coasting with foot just barely on the gas (buck stumble buck)
Reading 2 codes P0170 AND P0102 mass air and fuel trim respectively
Wants a little throttle to start or will start and die.
Both fans run consistently, I unplugged them.
It's below 50° for highs and when I go to work it's in the 20s one stop light into town one on the way out.
I'll run the heat on high to cool the engine figuring less draw than the 2 fans.
The wife got the day off so I took her car today. Just want to avoid tickets and especially court surcharges.
No reports till tomorrow but I'll find out how she runs cold to hot and get any codes.
.
Good. Default ECT is 194F. NOT
Marked in red are what I am looking at.
Does it have a MAP sensor?

TP 7% load with zero lb/min MAF is pointing to MAF or wires. 107 cause.
-8° advance at 972 rpm is of concern when warm.
Should be a SAF parameter somewhere if it has MAP.

Your screenshot IS without ECT connected, correct? WRONG, still connected
Next may be a comp. check to see if it jumped a timing belt.(you only have +/-1 cog before valves hit pistons.)
HUNDAI.jpg
 
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This was when I pulled in the driveway yesterday, ECT was still connected.
I planned on taking the car and record today but took the wifes instead.
Tomorrow I'll have new numbers. Will look for and check map sensor and check harness. (SAF parameters????)
All this is not really in my wheelhouse. Get a code, change a sensor get it inspected do it again next year.
That's about it. So thank you very much for your help! I've never had a car that was so dependent on electronics to run.
 
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