Pretty much that - they're referred to as pilot lights.I’ve been meaning to ask you, are these some sort of running lights?
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I really like the new engine plates !!Bling alert. For no good reason other than they will look better and perhaps more like a 1940s Redditch Royal Enfield, sourced some curved engine plates.
I know, I know, but sometimes you got to.
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They're not tightened up yet and can't do that until the exhaust goes back on - took it off to remove the old engine plates. Pictures available earlier in this thread of the flat, squared off ones that were there before.
And while the bike's in this state of undress, good opportunity to fit the hinged footpeg mounts. Fitting the engine plates was a little bit of a struggle, none of the fasteners wanted to line up until I explained to them. But the footrest mounts?
A Tale of Two Rubbers
Knew it would be a struggle to remove the rubber footrests from the old mounts. Made up some detergent & water, coz that can help with tyres and tubes. Tried holding the metal mount in a vice and pulling/wiggling the rubbers - nothing doing. Looked up on-line. Oh yes, you just need to slide a long, thin screwdriver down between the rubber and the shaft. Please, do try not to snigger. And squirt WD40 down the gap, to make sure everything is well lubricated. I give up, snigger if you must.
Nothing doing. Pulling, twisting, jamming in a vice to hold while struggling. There just has to be a method.
Indeed there is - this works:
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Ten minutes in boiling water. The froth is due to the detergent and WD40, I guess. Pair of leather gloves, grasp the rubber in one hand and the mount in the other, twist and pull. In fact, while it's still hot why not rush out to garage and shove the still warm footrest onto the new mount?
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I offer this to the World, free of charge, no patent - to remove classic rubber footrests from their mounts, simply boil in water for ten minutes. Probably a good idea to have some detergent or WD40 or thin oil in there too.
Hello RaymondPretty much that - they're referred to as pilot lights.
Light ON/OFF switch on the right h/bar has 3 positions OFF, SIDE, MAIN. Sidelights brings on the side light bulb in the headlamp shell, plus the pilots, plus the tail lamp. Main gives all those plus of course the dipped or full beam headlamp - controlled by the dip switch on the left h/bar.
I usually ride with dipped headlamp and the ammeter tells me that the uprated alternator I fitted copes fine.
But to help it along, I replaced the pilot lights with LED bulbs - they're low wattage but fairly bright. Some PO already replaced the tail lamp with LED.
Had to laugh when I saw Bullet performance discussed. It is said that a Bullet is capable of
60mph - all day
70mph - on occasion
80mph - once.
Of course, there are plenty of tuning options - big bore, long stroke, replacement crankshaft with caged roller big end bearing, camshafts, reworked heads. How fast can you afford to go? Also worth noting that anything more than a moderate performance hike requires thought given to brakes, suspension, etcetera.
For now at least, I'm happy enough with the performance for chuffing about on the lanes around here.
That was easy - Hitchcocks sell replacement LED pilot lights:Regarding the replacement bulbs to LED, what bulbs are used?
Close shave there Raymond. I'm sure you will make a satisfactory repair.Since I've had the bike, been aware that the mounting system for the saddle and rear mudguard leaves a lot to be desired.
T'other day, riding along the A698 Kelso-Jedburgh road, became aware of an unexpected sound. Took the opportunity offered by the next minor road, marked Crailing Church, and came to a halt. Couldn't hear it any more. Took a look around to see if there was anything stuck in the front or rear wheel - nada. Then noticed the r/h mudguard stay hanging loose. Picture taken just now in the back yard:
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The stay should be attached at the top shock mount but the end sheered off. It was clanking over the spokes and has left a polished line around the back tyre. My concern was that it might get trapped in the spokes and cause a Problem - but that didn't happen.
The stay on the other side doing its best but the mudguard has visibly sagged closer to the tyre. I think the PO has favoured style over function by using the two chrome stays which just aren't angled to hold the 'guard up.
Trials bike rear frame loop on order from HItchcocks
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ought to give much better support to the mudguard.
Pics or it didn't happen.... Hopefully you'll get some stick time for your efforts. Rib stitching?and I'm off to help somebody build some Taylorcraft wings - now that really is onwards and upwards. . .
Have a look at my W800 thread:Pics or it didn't happen.... Hopefully you'll get some stick time for your efforts. Rib stitching?
Agree.....and I don't think it spoils the lines of the bike?
Looks good Raymond. I doubt I'll ever get to the U.K., but if you're ever in N.E. Florida, stop in and say hello.Great morning, so far. Cloudy and looming, but thought I'd take a ride over to JD Falla Agricultural Engineers and see if they have locknuts for the suspension bolts. A trip for Miss November - the XS has only made a couple of shopping trips to Galashiels in the past two-three days. Falla is about forty miles round trip so enough to warm the engine properly.
Falla did not have lock nuts for the 3/8" thread, but they did have plain nuts so I bought four. 'Uhm, that will be 24 pence, Sir' the man said. 'Good grief!' I said, handing him a £1 coin, 'Just stick the change in the tin.'
There's a delight in thumbing a nose at the weather and getting away with it. Almost, the rain finally blew in when I was a mile from home.
There's also a delight in using one bike on a mission to buy sommat for another bike. Somebody please explain to me why that is?
Bullet once again back in one piece.
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And the rain that blew in has blown out again now.
Not really a worry, the amount of oil lost is very small and the leak is not bad enough for the bike to mark its spot.