5.7 ohms for stator?

[Inked Monkey]

i just removed my brushes and checked the resistance on my stator. It reads 5.7. Do i need to replace it or check somewhere else?

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

sounds good. touch your meter leads together. they probably count for about .3 - .5 of that

 

[Inked Monkey]

Well cool then. how do you check the regulator? My problem is the bike's not charging like it used to. Instead of 12 at idle and 14 at speed, I'm getting 11 at idle and 12.5-13 at speed.

 

[bigpup]

how old is your battery? is it fully charged?

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=3461

search the forum for replacement regulator plans by pamcopete.

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

if that battery can't hold a charge the bike should still be creating 14v

 

[Inked Monkey]

Yep that's the guide I've been trying to use. I'm gonna check all the connections tomorrow and probably apply some electrical grease because I didn't when I built the harness. I had the battery checked and it was good. Seems my charging system is working, just not as good as it has been. Didn't somebody post on how to clean the stator rings? Like using a pencil eraser or something?

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

the rings are probably fine.. you don't really need to clean them.

i got a $25 regulator at advance auto, idle it gets 13v, hardly touch the throttle and it gets 14.5v

 

[Inked Monkey]

Cool, I just searched and found a step by step from pamcopete on a 75 xs. Would the hook up and part numbers be the same for my 80?

 

[pamcopete]

This is something that I wanted to do to my '81/H from the moment I got it. The stock reg/Rect works just fine, but I know it's going to fail any day. Could be tommorow....could be next year, but I know it's gonna go. So, I replaced it today with a regulator from a '70's Chrysler product and those Radio Shack Rectifiers. Works great. Now I'm gonna sell my stock OEM reg / rect on Ebay. I can in good conscience say that it came from a working bike and that is has been tested. I figure I'll get enough from the sale of the Reg / Rect to more than pay for the Chrysler Regulator and the Radio Shack rectifiers. So, just like an old car....if it's running real good...time to sell it!

Here's the wiring diagram:

Here's a pic of the Chrysler Regulator:

Here's the reg / rect and the replacement:

Here's the replacement Reg / Rect:

This assembly bolts right in the same place as the stock Reg/Rect. I used a plug from Mikes to make it plug and play. I did have to cut the upper left corner of the plate to clear the end of the left side cover and the lower part of the plate to clear the swing arm.

1. Got to your local NAPA store or www.napaonline.com
2. Search for part NAPA MPEVR38SB @$14.99 for a 1975 Chrysler
3. Wire per this diagram, using the Rectifier from my earlier post ($6.58).
5. Note: The regulator does not have a ground wire, it depends on the case being firmly grounded.
This regulator was used on virtually all Chrysler products in the 1970's. There are millions of them out there, including a very large inventory in warehouses of the major auto parts stores, so they are interested in selling them. They are very well constructed, and potted, so there is no degradation of these parts and they have a one year warranty from the parts store.

The connections to the regulator are female bullet connections, but you should remove the protective plastic from the connections for a better connection.

Note: Also available from NAPA as their part number MPEVR38SB for $16.69

Parts List:
Regulator: $16.69 @ NAPA
Rectifiers (2) : $6.58 (Radio Shack #276-1185, $3.29 ea))
Misc: $1.00 (Connectors, wire etc.)
2" X 1/8 " aluminum plate (shop scrap)
Total: $24.27

So, if I can sell my stock OEM Rect/Reg for $24.27 I will have received a brand new equivalent for FREE. Anything more than $24.27 is like cash back!

Bonus: The Chrysler regulator is warrantied for 1 year!

 

[Inked Monkey]

Thanks pamcopete! With my stock reg/rec on the bike I had it mounted to the battery box open to the elements. I'm guessing this setup should be contained in an electrics box of some sort to keep it nice and dry. Would there be any concerns with overheating this setup?

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

if you have a '79 or earlier part number mpevr1010sb will not need the nylon screw mod to the alternator. but that regulator is almost $30..

the rectifier needs air to stay cool. regulator does not

 

[Inked Monkey]

So with using the setup above the two separate rectifiers need air flow? I'll probably build a box to hold it all with some air ducts to blow air through it.

Thanks for you help

 

[pamcopete]

inked...,

The rectifiers also need that piece of alluminum as a heat sink.

 

[Inked Monkey]

Ah, I see. Cool, I'll post pics of what I build to see if it'll work.

 

[Inked Monkey]

Hey pamcopete, I just picked up the parts to do this change. I picked up the regulator from advance auto and their part number is R296Z if anybody wants to know. This part seems to have paint on it and I was wondering if I need to sand it off to ensure grounding through the mount?

 

[TeeCat]

if that battery can't hold a charge the bike should still be creating 14v

Guys, forgive me... I'm confused by this. My bike, too, recently appeared not to be charging. But as soon as I put a full charge on the (admittedly underused, neglected) battery, I immediately saw normal numbers on my voltage gauge again. I'm still watching the battery - have not been able to ride lately and it's on the tender - but Leo was explaining to me that the numbers on the voltage gauge reflect output from the alternator. That being the case, how can a weak battery allow the alternator to produce 14-ish volts at speed?

Thanks!

TC

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

when you start the bike the battery provides the power, until it starts running, then the alternator is running the show.. it produces high voltage that gets regulated (by the regulator) and keeps it under 15v.

the battery only puts out 12.5v max. it's the alternator thats creating the higher voltage

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

i might be wrong but with points you should be able to start the bike then unplug the battery and it will run on its own

i think this would damage electronic ignitions though

 

[Inked Monkey]

Alright, i got all the parts made to do this swap and now i'm working on an electrical box to hold it all. This pipe is 5" diameter by 10" long. it should hold all my crap. I just want to know how much air flow I should provide? Should I make some caps for the ends with little scoops to direct airflow through the canister? Then I found my old stator cover and it fits perfect, so I thought i could cap the ends and drill holes in the bottom of the canister. I just didn't know if that would be enough air. I think the little scoops would look cool, but I'd be worried about riding in the rain and all that wet air being shoved into my electronics.

i actually have some extra pieces of expanded metal that I could form to the shape of the canister and weld it on the bottom. This would allow air flow but you wouldn't be able to see it unless you were under the bike. What do you think?