5.7 ohms for stator?

[pamcopete]

i might be wrong but with points you should be able to start the bike then unplug the battery and it will run on its own

i think this would damage electronic ignitions though

That test procedure is in one of the manuals but it should never be done because the regulator will go nuts without the battery to stabilize the voltage and you will fry something for sure.

 

[pamcopete]

Hey pamcopete, I just picked up the parts to do this change. I picked up the regulator from advance auto and their part number is R296Z if anybody wants to know. This part seems to have paint on it and I was wondering if I need to sand it off to ensure grounding through the mount?

Yes. I don't know why in hell they paint them all over like that, but sand the mounting holes to make a good ground connection. If you mount it on the battery box, remember that the battery box is not grounded, it floats on its rubber mounts, so run a good piece of wire from the actual frame to the regulator mounting screw.

Count to ten and double check your connections to the regulator before you apply power because if you switch the connections to the regulator, you will instantly fry it. Fortunately it has a warranty, so hang on to the receipt.

How much did you pay for the regulator? I just bought two of them at NAPA to ship to Australia and they were $14.99 ea.

 

[Inked Monkey]

They were $15 something after tax. I made up an electrical box to mount everything. Here's the bike it's going on. What do you think about the airflow question posted on bottom of page one?

 

[pamcopete]

Inked Monkey,

Well, the drop across the diodes is about 1.2 volts and there is always two diodes conducting, so that's at least 12 watts X 2 = 24 watts. Actually more, because its a three phase system, so think about a 24 to 30 watt thing like a soldering iron and how hot it gets, that heat has to be dissipated.

The aluminum plate that the rectifiers are mounted on acts like a heat sink, but that just spreads the heat over a wider area, it still has to be dissipated with air flow.

If you put them in an enclosed box of some kind, just be sure there are adequate holes or louvers to bring in some air.

 

[Inked Monkey]

Thanks for the reply. I'll incorporate some vents.

 

[650Skull]

The regulators i just got, the NAPA ones, (Thanks Pamcopete), have the paint removed on the three holes on the top of the plate, so a ground wire just has to be put under the head of the mounting screw...

 

[Inked Monkey]

I thought about adding some computer fans in there also.

 

[Visegrippe]

you could probably just make sure there is good contact to the box itself, perhaps use some thermal grease. steel, while not as good as aluminum, will still draw the heat out and act as a heat sink. if you are really worried, grab an old cpu heat sink to mount your rectifier to, usually good for 100watts or so, and minimal airflow would be sufficient to keep it cool.

 

[pamcopete]

Heat sink overload!

This runs so cool that it actuallly feeds current back into the system!

 

[Inked Monkey]

Sweet! Is that out of a computer?

 

[retiredgentleman]

Wow, that guy has bragging rights on heat sink size. I thought mine was large until I saw that bad boy. Oh well................that's typical of men..............."My heat sink is bigger than your heat sink"

 

[Inked Monkey]

Hey pete, do I need to replace the brush screws with nylon ones? It's an 80 motor

 

[pamcopete]

Inked....,

No. As long as it is also an '80 stator.

 

[xjwmx]

how old is your battery? is it fully charged?

if that battery can't hold a charge the bike should still be creating 14v

I don't think you will see 14v if your battery is low. You will just see some lower voltage above what it reads not running.

 

[XSLeo]

I'm using the R296Z regulator from Advanced auto, it's a chrome body, like Pamcopete's pics.
The alternator output is controlled by the current flow through the rotor. The rotor gets it's current flow directly from the battery. If your battery is low it can't supply enough current to the rotor. Low rotor current = low output.
A weak battery will keep the regulator conducting more current longer to try to keep the output high enough to run the bike and charge the battery. This overheats the regulator and the rotor. To much heat further stresses the system. eventually burning something out.
So anytime your charging system is not preforming up to parr. Check the brushes, connections, stator, rotor. All the usual things. Charge the battery, it just may be the battery is low.

 

[Inked Monkey]

My buddy gave me these heat sinks. They are probably overkill, but they were free, look cool and fit, so what the hell? Here's some pics of my box so far. The shelf slides out in order to change fuses and what not. I think with those heat sinks and these bigass holes cut out, I won't have an issue with heat.

 

[pamcopete]

inked...,

That's a pretty neat setup. I don't think you will have any problem with overheating!

 

[Inked Monkey]

Thanks pete. Here's some pics of the finished box. Just need to mount it on the bike and wire everything up.

 

[Inked Monkey]

Alright pete, now what should I check? Everythings back together and it starts right up, but It's still not charging. My multimeter reads 12.9 on the battery and when I start it up it reads 12.6. I assume thats from the electricity going to the lights. What should I check next? Thanks again

 

[Inked Monkey]

I took this from curleys electrical guide.

"6. At the stator wire connector locate the three white wires. Use a voltmeter set on the AC scale to test the three possible connections between the white wires by probing from the backside of the connector. (The connector should be plugged togeter for this test) With the engine running at idle you should see about 10.5 to 11 AC volts (Not DC) on each of the three combinations of white to white that you make. If you get a very low reading on one or two legs then something is grounding your stator. If you have high readings on any of the legs (i.e. 16-18VDC) then your rectifier is bad."

Can I check these wires at the rectifiers?