Cam chain replacement

Champion750

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I'm ready to put a set of cases together and I have a new cam chain to install. The new chain is endless and came with a master link. Therefore I must break the new chain and install the master link in order to install the chain in the engine. All because of that stinking "Cam Chain Tensioner Arm Assembly" (see pic).
So my question is, what's the most common way of breaking the chain and what recommendations does anyone have for peening the pins on the master link?
I don't have a chain breaker for a chain that small so I guess just grind off the heads of two pins and tap out the pins with a punch to break the chain???
Then should I use a pointed punch to peen the pins on the master link or a flat headed punch?.

I feel it's really important to get this right.

Thanks for any help,

Robert
 

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I just Dremel the pins flat. Take my trusty chain tool and push the old pins out. A small punch and hammer will do it easy though. I peen with my tool too. But back it with a heavy object like a hand sledge and mushroom it with another hammer or better yet another punch. Might need someone to hold the backing hammer.
 
Thanks for the replies.

5twins, I think that's what I'll do. I was wondering about that. I was even thinking about replacing that center pin on the tensioner bracket with a bolt and spacer but why bother?

Robert
 
Looks like I have another issue with installing my cam chain. I took 5twins advice and was able to get the endless chain installed and button up the cases. But now I can't figure out how to get the chain around the cam. There is no way in hell this chain is going to go around that sprocket without breaking the chain. I also tried putting the chain on the sprocket first, then tried to get the cam in after. That didn't work either. The head gasket isn't fully compressed yet but that can't matter that much.

Is this possible? Call me an idiot but I really don't see how!

A cam chain tool from Mike's is $56....ugh! I'm sure that's a fair price but I'd probably only use it once or twice.

Thanks,
Robert
 

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I am sure someone will beat me to the solution but the best way to install a new cam chain is to remove the bearings from the cam, use some spacers and tighten the head to about 10-15 ft/lbs of torque (just enough to make sure everything is pulled tight), install chain on cam and then install the bearings on the cam. It is still a little tough but it is definitely doable this way.

Clayton

Edit: I guess I was the quick draw on this one.
 
Yeah, there's not much room for the chain and the sprocket side by side in that tunnel.
Suggest getting the chain around that protruding section of the cam as you should have enough slack to do that and then move the chain up to the next step- the teeth.
Did this meself this afternoon.
 
And like Ippy sez...bearings off and cam tensioner out.
A good stout Phillips head screwdriver into the open end of the cam helps to lift the cam end enough to get the bearings on once the chain is on.
 
That appears to be a re-phased cam and now has bolt heads in the way of getting the chain up on that first step platform on the way to the teeth. I'd be sore tempted to back at least one of them bolts out of the way......
 
Well call me an idiot. I didn't think it was possible.

Ground a little material away in the tunnel then put the cam in from the other side.

Problem now is that the bearings on one end (left) won't go on by hand. It's a very light press fit. So I need to do something about that because everything above the pistons will go on and off at least twice, maybe three times. In the state it's in now I'm just checking piston clearances and squish. Once a proper head gasket is purchased I may check it all again. Then final assembly.

Thanks for all the help :thumbsup:

P.S. nj its not a rephased cam. (it better not be!!)
 

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Don't you want to have your valves installed before putting the cam chain on? What valve springs you running? They look different to the norm.
 
muks, I'm only checking clearances right now. This isn't final assembly. The springs you see are light weight "checking" springs. Light enough that I can push the valve down by hand. The piston on the side with no valves has modeling clay on it. I still have a ways to go before I even get to the point of checking valve to piston clearance with a dial indicator. Trying to figure out this cam chain is only one step in a long process.
 
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