Carbs sharbs!!!!!!! Help!

frank

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Hola peeps! Its the Frankster back again. I believe the last time i posted was about almost a month and i was working on the stupid carbs. Well guess what!!!!!!!! I'M STILL WORKING ON THE STUPID CARBS!!!!!!!!!! I can't get these guys to set for the life of me! I'm still getting constant back fire on d-accelleration out the carbs and the exhaust. maybe its a timming issue? maybe its a carb issue but i'm pretty sure i don't know what the fuck i'm doing and am certainly losing my mind! I can get it to idle but it runs like shit falling on its face with throttle response. Points are new and set to spec. The timming is set as far as i know to spec maybe some literature on timing could help? I'm at my wits end so once again i'm reaching out to ya'll! Help me if you can thanks!!!
 
Also i have a question on these little inlets on each side of my manifolds? What are they for and what should i do with them?
 

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Those nipples provide vacuum for the original vacuum petcocks. If you're not running vacuum petcocks anymore then the nipples should be capped over with a rubber plug. If you're trying to run the bike with those nipples left open, that's probably what's causing all your problems. They will suck air and create an extreme lean condition.
 
I'm glad u said that because i did have them plgged up with caps and i still had the problem. I have a carb synchronizer that is used to try and sync the carbs and one carb is right where it needs to be and the other doesnt move not one bit no matter how much adjusting i do? I've torn them down sixteen different ways from sunday and everything looks good even the diagphrams are intack. This is the tool i use.
 

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FWIW... When I first got my '75 it would not idle, popped on decel. I checked for vac leaks and such, ... WD-40 test...everything. Finally found out there is a fuel jet in the bottom bowl and on the bottom of it is a hair fine idle fuel orfice that was stopped up. Once the carb was off idle it got fuel but at idel it ran lean or the engine idled up and the would slowly fall off randomly. Once I cleaded out this hole all was fine.

Happens when fuel sits in the bowl for months and varnish like glue forms.

Hope this helps!

Ken
 
Yeah i know exactly what your talking about. Thats been cleaned out also. Still having the issue. But thanks anyway buddy i appreciate it.
 
A suggestion - clean the carbs with an ultrasonic cleaner. I am sure that you think you are getting them clean with carb cleaner, I know I thought I was. Try an ultrasonic and see the crud that you missed! This is the only way I got my bike to run right.
 
An ultrasonic cleaner works by high frequency waves which break up the crud in your carbs. This is of particular help if your bike sat around for a long time and gave the carbs plenty of time to become gummed up. Usually the units use a heated cleaning solution and the best part is that this type of cleaning is completely safe for the rubber parts in the carbs. You can send your carbs out for this type of cleaning or you can purchase a machine and do it yourself.
 
If you're getting zero vacuum on one side it's time to stop playing with the carbies and check the condition of the top end on that side. Check compression, and if you have it, go on to leak down testing.
 
I have the carbs torn down and will probably have them sent off. Wow a leak down test huh. I really was not hoping it came down to that. But ok! You guys are the pro's so i'll do it! Thanks!!!!
 
Right side of the motor. Watch this video. should be nice and free like that and springs intact.



I have been having this very same problem. Just checked my advance and not only does it not click but it doesn't return when I pull them apart. Springs seem good. Simple fix?
 
Hey Grinder they don't retract very well at all like it does in the video. What can i do to fix this. My springs seem to be in good condition?
 
The advance rod may need to be lubed. Your timing may be hanging up in the advanced position and that's why your RPMs are slow to return to idle.
 
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