Confused

gearhead13

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I'm trying to reset the points on a 79 xs650f and can't seem to get it right. The manual says that you have to set the right side first to the right side of the engine. So I set that one first the set the other side. After I rotate the engine to check if they are opening and closing,but it looks like the right side is the only one opening and closing. The bike didn't have points on it when I bought it so starting from scratch and the points and advance rod were bought on ebay. What was supposed to take a little while to set the points is turning out to be a nightmare. I know switching to electronic ignition would be better but short on cash and have to suffer for now. Please help. Thanks
 
Sounds like you haven't gapped the left set of points yet. You gap the points 1st, then set the timing. You do the upper set (right cylinder) 1st, setting the timing by rotatiing the whole backing plate. You do the lower set (left cylinder) last by moving just the half plate that those points are mounted on. Don't move the whole backing plate again or you'll throw the right cylinder settings off.

To most accurately set the points gap, you should use a dwell meter. Incidentally, this is about the only way to accurately set used points. To most accurately set the timing, you should use a timing light. If you don't have these tools then you're basically just guessing.
 
Hey gearhead. Seen this mystery before, often caused by non-flat points plate mating surfaces, and sometimes by too-long screws hitting backside, pushing plate out a little. In both cases, would set points timing/gap, snug it down, and see gap disappear...
 
Hey, Gearhead, here's the second half of my post.

To really check this points plate out, you need to remove it, leave the points in for now. Assuming the plates and points screws are snug, flip it over and check screws. At best, they should be level with the back of the plate, no overpenetration. Some areas can tolerate slight overlength, just need to crosscheck where it fits on the housing, ensure no touching. Screws that are too long will bow the plate out, foul timing when tightening, and cause the points followers to wear at an angle. In worse cases, you may find the cam itself worn on a slope.

Plate flatness is important. Disassemble, smear a thin layer of grease on a flat reference plate, slide stripped points backing plate on surface, flip over, check grease spots for flatness. Do same for floating left point sub-plate.

If any of the above (screw length, non-flat plates), most likely will need to replace points. Also, closely inspect points cam for that sloped wear.

Good luck...
 
Is there supposed to be play in the rod cam assembly? I can move it with my fingers up and down and side to side on the points side. I think it has play on the other side too.
 
There is supposed to be minimum up-down/side to side, movment. Tic-tic-tic verses clunk- clunk-clunk kinda action. How are your the bushings in(not around) your (Valve)cam? Are they lubed? Does your points cam snap back after being rotated to check your ATU? All these things can aftect you points and timeing setting.
 
Sad thing is I've already been eating ramen noodles for a while just to get the points. Lol

:yikes: Guess you have no choice. Points work great when you get them set up properly, but can be a major bitch when their not, even bigger bitch if you've never set them before.

What year is your bike?
 
Turns out it was the cam bushings. Already on order from mikesxs. Thanks for all the info guys. There's way better info on this site than the manual.
 
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