Cut down turn signals

Crab_Cake

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I have seen a few pictures of bikes with modified turn signals. It looks like they cut about half the length of the signal stock off.

I really want to do this to mine. Could anyone explain how its done or show me a previous link?

Thanks!
 
A spring with coils shaped like thread pitches.
Used to repair stripped out holes.
 
I'm in the process of doing it right now, got the right-hand one done and back on the bike; also to get front running lights at the same time, I'm replacing the original single-filament sockets with dual-element Virago front sockets that fit right into the cavities in the 650 turn signals. I did not use heli-coils; just used a 6.8mm tap drill and 8mm x 1.25 taper tap to thread the shortened turn signal stubs to take the threaded rod. I drilled out the threaded rods to 4.2mm (could also use 11/64" drill) so I could get at least two wires through them. Had to remove the black ground wire from the Virago sockets - no way to drill out the rods enough to fit three wires - am just using the original 650 grounds inside the headlight bucket with the large ring terminals that fit over the threaded rod. Had some trouble getting a good ground through the threaded rod; finally just wrapped a short strand of copper wire around the threaded rod right where it enters the housing and twisted the ends together to make a tail about 1/4" long. The tail tightens up against the new cut face of the housing when you install it and provides a good ground - invisible when all tightened up.
 

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The picture doesn't show if the signals have one wire or two. They would work either way, you just have to attach one lead to the hot (dark green, brown) and ground the other wire. The signals don't look like they have long enough shafts to use in the stock location in the front. The stockers usually go through the ears and into the headlight bucket. Alot of the aftermarket stuff is too short for the front. Check the stockers vs the new ones.
 
I'm in the process of doing it right now, got the right-hand one done and back on the bike; also to get front running lights at the same time, I'm replacing the original single-filament sockets with dual-element Virago front sockets that fit right into the cavities in the 650 turn signals. I did not use heli-coils; just used a 6.8mm tap drill and 8mm x 1.25 taper tap to thread the shortened turn signal stubs to take the threaded rod. I drilled out the threaded rods to 4.2mm (could also use 11/64" drill) so I could get at least two wires through them. Had to remove the black ground wire from the Virago sockets - no way to drill out the rods enough to fit three wires - am just using the original 650 grounds inside the headlight bucket with the large ring terminals that fit over the threaded rod. Had some trouble getting a good ground through the threaded rod; finally just wrapped a short strand of copper wire around the threaded rod right where it enters the housing and twisted the ends together to make a tail about 1/4" long. The tail tightens up against the new cut face of the housing when you install it and provides a good ground - invisible when all tightened up.

I like the idea of the running light/turn combo.It might be possible to ground inside the cup, attaching where the socket lock down is..... snaking a wire up alongside the rubber socket- whatever works!
If your threading goes south for any reason, you can still helicoil...should be enough meat left.
Where are you tieing in to power the runners? Voltage draw? mild concern.
 
I am using standard 1157 incandescent bulbs - the 8 watt filament is the running light, so I've added 16 watts of load (or 1.3 amps at 12 VDC) by adding front funning lights this way. Earlier I changed the two taillight bulbs from 1157s to LEDs, so saved some amperage there, but used up those savings now. I spliced into the blue wire that feeds the speedometer light - alternatively, you could splice into the one that powers the tach light; it's the same circuit - like the headlight, these running lights don't come on until the motor is running.
 
So I tried replacing the stock 650 turn signal lenses with Virago ones - same diameter, they fit the 650 housings perfectly. I think they soften the flat look of the stockers and blend in better with the headlight. May get some clear lenses off eBay and use with amber bulbs - have that setup on my Virago and like the look.
 

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Aldo, does it look like those would fit on the rear as well? The pack on my luggage carrier hides my signals some times. It wouldn't those.
 
Aldo, does it look like those would fit on the rear as well? The pack on my luggage carrier hides my signals some times. It wouldn't those.
Yeah, they should fit in the rear; I don't see any reason why they wouldn't. As far as I can tell, the stock 650 turn signals are the same on all four corners. I did the front ones on my bike first, but plan on doing the rears also when I can score another nice set of chromed ones on eBay.
 
Here's a pic of the rear half-done - the improvement in looks is even more dramatic back here than in the front.
 

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Aldo, does it look like those would fit on the rear as well? The pack on my luggage carrier hides my signals some times. It wouldn't those.

Will the shorter stems create problems with the bracketing on the luagge rack?
The rear signals of a TX750 are shorter but the bracketing on the rack won't allow them to be mounted.
 
Not having a luggage rack on my 650, I can't answer whether signals cut down as much as I cut them would interfere with brackets for it. If you have a rack, you could measure how much stem could be removed without causing an interference problem. To clarify a statement I made in a previous post about all four stock 650 turn signals being the same, it is true for the housings, but not for the wiring - the rear signals have much longer leads.
 
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