Engine heating up and shutting down

Just a thought here: if you're getting magnetism at the rotor, seems to me that the rotor AND the regulator must be functioning. If then we're not getting charge voltage at the battery , what's left is the stator and rectifier........:umm:
 
Well then lets test it:

Static: resistance check - should be ~1 Ohm resistance to ground (stator frame) across each white wire

Dynamic: while running AC voltage between each white wire should be ~10-12 Volts AC @ 2500 rpm
 
Well then lets test it:

Static: resistance check - should be ~1 Ohm resistance to ground across each white wire

Dynamic: while running AC voltage between each white wire should be ~10-12 Volts AC current @ 2500 rpm
May I kindly request that you be a little more descriptive like where to put the Multimeter black pin red pin where which connector.
 
Static test: black probe on stator frame, red probe on terminal of each white wire

Dynamic test: black probe on terminal of each white wire, red probe on terminal of each other white wire

record/report results
 
Here's a video I did on checking the rectifier. If nothing else, it'll help get you more comfortable with a volt/ohm meter. Let us know if the rectifier checks good.


while doing both these tests - should I turn on the ignition or leave it ioff. ?
 
Whenever doing resistance checks (Ohms) the circuit should not be powered* and often, , the component itself disconnected. Same with the rectifier test

The static stator tests, the stator can even be removed from the bike, but is tested unplugged. The dynamic (running test), it must be installed and connected; the readings (ACVolts) are taken at the connector while plugged-in

*Using the Ohms scale on many (most) multimeters on a powered circuit can damage the meter
 
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Whenever doing resistance checks (Ohms) the circuit should not be powered* and often, , the component itself disconnected. Same with the rectifier test

The static stator tests, the stator can even be removed from the bike, but is tested unplugged. The dynamic (running test), it must be installed and connected; the readings (ACVolts) are taken at the connector while plugged-in

*Using the Ohms scale on many (most) multimeters on a powered circuit can damage the meter
The static stator testing seems to be failing. I have the Fluke 287 - Mega Ohms setting and the range is 0 - 5. When I touch both the probes to each other its 0.0001 ohms ... Now any combination of white wire testing always give me 0hms. I also tested the green and red and black. Some combinations always gave me a consistent .33 ohms and the rest were 0hms. The stator testing give me 1.0 ohms

I still have to do the dynamic test, I'll find a guy to do it later.
 
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The static stator testing seems to be failing. I have the Fluke 287 - Mega Ohms setting and the range is 0 - 5. When I touch both the probes to each other its 0.0001 ohms ... Now any combination of white wire testing always give me 0hms. I also test the green and red and black. Some combinations always gave me a consistent .33 ohms and the rest were 0hms.

I still have to do the dynamic test, I'll find a guy to do it later.
The connectors looked fairly clean - no dust so they looked like they were recently worked on.
 
I have the Fluke 287 - Mega Ohms setting and the range is 0 - 5.
Mega ohms is millions of ohms.... and you're trying to measure less than 1Ω. I use a Fluke 87. It has a range button on it. I can set the meter to Ohms and then press the range button until I get to the lowest range.
Not familiar with your 287... but I'd guess it's the same. Press the range button until you get to single ohms.
 
The stator is fine. I was testing the wrong connection - basically the wires that go to the rectifier. I now tested the wires coming from the stator and they are all at roughly 1 - 1.2

I can do the dynamic test. I'll tape the probes to the connector and rev the bike.
Question : Can I start the bike WITHOUT connecting the stator to the rectifier Or should I connect start and then disconnect to measure ?
 

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In #71 above you said... "Now any combination of white wire testing always give me 0hms."
Your last comment says "open... no reading."
It can't be both. They're either open, as in infinite resistance.... or they have resistance, as in about a half an ohm. They can't be both. :umm:
 
In #71 above you said... "Now any combination of white wire testing always give me 0hms."
Your last comment says "open... no reading."
It can't be both. They're either open, as in infinite resistance.... or they have resistance, as in about a half an ohm. They can't be both. :umm:
I corrected my statement. There was an error in my testing. I am learning.
 
I'd like to help - but now leaving for a Wedding:rolleyes:....carry-on & good luck!:thumbsup:
 
Question : Can I start the bike WITHOUT connecting the stator to the rectifier Or should I connect start and then disconnect to measure ?
Start it with it disconnected. That's the easiest way.
 
I tested several times over. The Static tests pass both for the Rectifier and Stator.

On the Stator side - Female connector - All white wires gave a range .95 - 1.15 Ohms. Image attached.
On the rectifier side - I tried all combinations based on Jim's video - when the current flowed it was .48 VDC consistent and 0 when no current flowed.

On the dynamic testing the Stator did not show any voltage when reving the engine... :mad:
:(
 

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