Fork rebuild question

[junkshow]

So I'm in the process of tearing down my '79 XS and build a swing arm (bratstyle) bobber and I have reached the point of tearing into my forks. I've searched the forum and read Hugh's lowering kit instructions (great write up) but I have an issue. I have a '79 with what Hugh called "late style" forks, and I should be able to use a home made 17mm "socket cap" too that I made. However, there is nothing for the tool to fit in to. I do not appear to have the guts inside my fork to accommodate this style of removal tool. Nor do I have the early style fork guts for use with the other style of tool he mentioned.

My question is, is there another type of fork not listed (or I can't find) that I need different type of tool to disassemble? Clearly there is, I just can't find anything about it.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[weekendrider]

You are missing the dampers? Or have a different style damper?
Pictures may be needed in this case.

 

[osteoderm]

The stock forks, early or late, disassemble with one of the two general methods Hugh has outlined. Some early-style forks have a slightly different damper rod design, which requires a slightly different tool; instead of using a "butchered" 17mm 6-point socket, use a slightly-flattened piece of 1/2" ID tubing (the flats on these particular early-style damper rods are 10mm apart). This procedure is well-illustrated in the Haynes manual.

Are you utterly sure that you have a stock late-style XS650 fork?

 

[junkshow]

Utterly sure? No. But it's a 35mm and the top caps match the style of the later forks.

I'll try to get pics in a bit, but in the mean time...

When I disassemble the forks, I remove the top cap, steel spacer, and spring. When I look down in the fork tube with a flashlight there does not appear to be anything that a 17mm 6-point socket or the other tool Hugh mentioned can fit into/on to.

I'll try to get a picture looking down the fork tube.

 

[junkshow]

here is the best shot I could get of the inside of my fork tube. It's hard to get a focused and flash down a tube with an iphone but it was better than my digital camera.

As you can see, there is nothing for a tool to grab on to. I'm at a loss.

I used an 8mm 6-point bit attached to an impact driver on the bolt on the bottom. It broke free no problem, now I can see the damper inside the fork tube just spinning.

 

[XSLeo]

Try an wooden broom handle. slide the fork down over the broom handle. Push the fork down firmly on the broom, remove the bolt. It may take two people, one to hold the fork down, the other to remove the bolt.
Leo

 

[osteoderm]

This thread on chopcult shows the alternate early-style damper.
Also, while the recommended tool is a 17mm 6-point, be aware that the top of the late-style damper is a 12-point fit, and may not look like what you expect it to. The tool doesn't need to crank away, just hold the rod from spinning while you free the allen-head cap-screw from the bottom of the fork lower.
I've always had excellent luck with using no internal tool at all; a few judicious squirts with an electric impact driver on the lower bolt and just spring-tension to hold the damper from spinning has worked for me.

 

[osteoderm]

here is the best shot I could get of the inside of my fork tube. It's hard to get a focused and flash down a tube with an iphone but it was better than my digital camera.

As you can see, there is nothing for a tool to grab on to. I'm at a loss.

I used an 8mm 6-point bit attached to an impact driver on the bolt on the bottom. It broke free no problem, now I can see the damper inside the fork tube just spinning.

Whew, bummer... looks to me like the 12-point female top of the damper got mangled in a previous lifetime. I second XSLeo's advise with the broomstick.

 

[junkshow]

Done.

As it turns out, the 12 point bolt inside was stripped. I just set full preload and turned it upside down. Got all my weight on it and started going at the 8mm with the impact wrench.

Luckily the other leg was nice and easy.

Thanks for the help guys.

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[weekendrider]

So you need 1 damper?

 

[junkshow]

So you need 1 damper?

No. I had a box of spare parts from another purchase that had forks in it. I just pulled one from there.

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[jd750ace]

An air impact wrench on the lower damper screw is your best weapon against screwed up internals. Most more modern forks have dispensed with any arresting method inside, as the 3/8" impact wrench on the bottom screw with the internals still assembled works like a champ. They sell a big old hunk of shit to go on the end of an extension that looks like a 3rd grader tried to hand forge a spear head, but I have not found a bolt I couldn't get out with the impact, or drill the head off if it was boogered up.

 

[gggGary]

On 650 forks the long holder tool is often needed. I have and use the impact with a long allen type 8mm socket but about half the time it isn't enough.
My "tool" is a chunk of rebar with a 17mm Head bolt and a tee handle welded on.

 

[weekendrider]

All thread and 4 nuts does the trick for me.
Preload is great if it is available. A set of bent tubes and lowers with no springs or caps requires a little help. If you want to salvage parts that is.

 

[jd750ace]

I had read the same before, that they were notorious for being "spinners".