learn to live with the XS ...

kopcicle

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I hear reoccurring themes about our motorcycles I just have to comment on .

I do have to thank our Britt cousins for the early lessons in how to start a motorcycle without getting crippled . It was a BSA 441 Victor with a wee bit more compression than stock . Some will understand Energy transfer ignition , AC lighting , back to back zener diodes and positive earth . If you don't those key words will be an interesting read .

Amyl carbs have a tickler . Essentially This allows you to put a bit of raw fuel in the throat of the carb . Just because it may not be quite obvious You can substitute our mixture enrichment knob for the Britt tickler . So here is the drill . With switch off , tickle , establish tdc with the kicker (and or compression release) , hold throttle open and kick , twice , like you mean it .Close throttle. Find tdc again , reload the kick lever , turn the switch on and sell out on the kick lever . I can't stress enough how lame , limp , half hearted attempts at the kicker will fail to start the bike , injure the rider's ankle and pride and generally be a source of humor for weeks to come from your mates .

If you can't find or don't know how to find TDC with the kick lever have someone that does know show you . If you are the one teaching this have your student first do it by hand (with switch off of course ) and then with the foot . Be patient I've had to show this to a few that needed "several" sessions .

Vibration . So you re-phased guys can take a nap here . In something of an order I'll start with engine to chassis mounting . Leave any of the engine mounting bolts loose and not only will the shake get worse it will eventually destroy the rear mount whether it's tight or not . I don't use any locking agent on any of the mounting bolts preferring to regularly re-torque and inspect .

Pipes , mufflers , inner pipe and brackets . The stock header pipes are double wall . If the inner pipe separates at the connection to the muffler that whole 26" some length is unsupported and dancing to harmonics within . You would be surprised at the result if you ever correctly diagnose and fix this one . I just drill the outer in a couple places just ahead of the muffler joint and plug weld them . Make sure the pipe is snugged up at the head and all mounting points .

The next two will require a bit of advanced or remedial reading depending on your experience .
Valve adjust . Yes a sloppy valve adjust will introduce harmonics into the system as sure as an out of balance crankshaft . I've said it over and over again . There is one correct way to adjust valves and that is with a degree wheel and a dial indicator . The short version is when .001" of valve lash can result in a difference in as much as 5 degrees at valve opening you are sure to introduce "noise" at the crankshaft . Ignition timing . All you electronic ignition types can join the twist crank folk in a nap now . Set the set of points fixed to the plate at .014-.015 " an place a dwell meter on them . It doesn't matter what the number of cylinders is set to or what the dwell reading is as long as it's a consistent reading . Move over to the other side and make the dwell the same . Nor set timing for both and check dwell again . Repeat as necessary until both have the same dwell and fall on the same spot at or near the full advance mark viewed with a timing light . Worn point pivot , mechanical advance parts and near fouled plugs can contribute to timing inaccuracies but what I described is for the most part related to vibration .

Finally , now that the mechanical and electrical is squared away tackle the carbs . . First sync then mixture . Repeat as necessary .

Look these thoughts and procedures won't eliminate vibration in the XS650 but they will reduce it .
The above starting procedure works with a near 12:1 alcoholic 750 and an PMA with just a little bit of gasoline dribbled on the filters . I have it timed on the edge of stupidity or ability to cold start without injury , fixed at 42 degrees BTDC .

I've gone on long enough here to give some food for thought . I've got some thoughts on engine operation and ignition timing for later consumption but this is enough for now .

~kop
 
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I always say, if you can't kick these over on 1 to 3 kicks or it kicks back hard, something is wrong with it like timing/carbs or you need to learn and understand what TDC is. these bikes are so easy to kick.
 
Last time I introduced this thought on the web it was largely ignored . The time before that it was flamed by ignorant know it alls . I present it here just because I was bored or wanted donate a peculiar thought to the forum . You be the judge . :D

Suck Squeeze Bang Blow
or for the politically correct and exacting but humorless engineers '
Intake Compression Power Exhaust

There are two major pressure changes in a four stroke internal combustion engine , when you light the fire which is easy for you youngsters with your electronic ignition and when you let go of it . You go to people like Falicon with your cranks and A.P.E. or Branch with your heads . Pistons are weight matched within 1/8 gm or less .Even intake and exhaust ports are cc'd .Combustion chambers are volume matched within 1/4 cc or less . Some spend thousands on dyno time getting the perfect jetting or fuel map .
Then you adjust valves with a feeler gage ?
The valve clearances suggested by the manufacturer are just that a suggestion to keep you from holding a valve open or beating your valve train to death . Until Yamaha recently decided to experiment with 90 degree cranks all the inline fours used a flat (180 degree) crank with #1 and #4 at TDC and #2 and #3 at BDC . each pair firing alternately . Until the CBRXX no one thought to balance out this rocking couple but that's a story for another day . The point is why would you want to introduce any further variations in balance by scattering major pressure pulses over as much as 10 degrees of crank rotation ?
Use a positive piston stop to establish TDC and adjust the degree wheel to match a pointer . Insert the correct feeler gage between one exhaust valve and the rocker and adjust till there is a slight drag . So far this is basic a valve adjust . Now place a dial indicator on the spring retainer of this exhaust valve and preload it at least 0.060" . Pick some arbitrary lift distance like 0.030" and mark it on the dial . Rotate the crank until that valve has opened 0.030" and mark the degree wheel . If you started with #1 now go over to #4 and adjust the exhaust valve so there is that slight drag on the feeler gage and move the dial indicator to that retainer and preload it . When it has moved 0.030" look at the degree wheel . It should be 360 degrees out from #1 AND ON THE SAME MARK . Unless lady luck intervenes it won't be . Variations in cam indexing and tolerance as well as deformation of the top of the valve make it unusual in the extreme for all this to work with simply a feeler gage .
In the end all exhaust valves should be opening at the same place in degrees plus or minus 180 degrees at 0.030" lift and be within specified lash limits . If you have gone this far then repeat for the intakes even though the effect on the engine is not nearly as dramatic and closing more critical than opening .
Now of course when confronted selective shim valve adjustment you are limited to just how close you can get to ideal . Or are you ? If you have enough experience to have adjusted valves on an 8 valve kawasaki , Suzuki or other then you remember they came in half millimeter sizes ie 2.30 , 2.35 etc . I have sizes in 2.325 , 2.375 . If you think this is overkill imagine what you find in a factory race team's box of shims . I don't have to imagine it , I've seen it .
I do have a curious and humorous way of doing this that I have used to demonstrate the principal in a classroom and as a garage joke with friends . I'll set up the degree wheel ahead of time and expose the valve adjustment . I found a hose that just screws into the spark plug holes rather than continually removing the valve from my compression tester .
To the end of the hose I attach a rubber , yes a prophylactic , un-lubed , with a rubber band . The compression stroke inflates the "balloon" and the exhaust opening rapidly deflates it .If you really want to drive yourself crazy try the above procedure with the dial indicator and then repeat it with the balloon . I recommend a very little light oil on the seat . Now observe what a change of just 0.001" (insert a feeler guage between the rocker tip and valve or the cam lobe and "lifter" ) does in relation to opening in degrees . Then for those that obsess try just a 0.00025" or 1/4 thou change and record the difference in degrees at actual opening *. This "shade tree" device , with a little practice will also give a indication of low pressure cylinder sealing that a leak down tester will not unless equipped with gages costing several hundreds of dollars .

I'll attempt reason without anecdote or explanation .
If your cam specs are @ 0.040 lift and intake opens 19 degrees BTDC and closes 46 degrees ABDC and exhaust opens 34 degrees BBDC and closes 16 degrees ATDC ....
ALL exhaust valves are opening at 34 degrees before bottom dead center for their respective cylinder AND staying within acceptable valve clearances ( .007" to .010" ).
The lash or static clearance has far less impact on engine performance if kept within the manufacturer's specified limits than does adjusting the exhaust valves to open at a specific point in crank rotation .
I lifted representative specifications from an older megacycle 493-x1 cam

So it's up to you . Call it lazy to use just a feeler gage and get out simple tools and take a little extra time and get it right or use just a feeler gage and get close .

~kop

* 0.00025" or 1/4 thou @ actual lift was a difference of 4 degrees in exhaust opening measured on a SOHC Honda 750 ~kop
 
Using a degree wheel has always eluded me no matter who is writing about it. I've read your accounts and even your blog but the degree wheel still eludes me. I'm sure the problem is me and if I ever get the chance to see it done face to face I'm sure I'll have a better grasp.

And thanks for reminding me that I need to reinstall the top engine mounts after finally having finished the last of several retorqings of the head bolts after doing the head gasket.
 
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