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[Dozuki]

Just a little update. Got the POR 15 today and have the tank off. Discovered that the petcocks leak a little where the seal is. When I got the petcocks off there was gunk on them as well. Going to try just cleaning them up before I get petcock rebuild kits.

 

[MaxPete]

Just a little update. Got the POR 15 today and have the tank off. Discovered that the petcocks leak a little where the seal is. When I got the petcocks off there was gunk on them as well. Going to try just cleaning them up before I get petcock rebuild kits.

Good - and when using the POR15 - be sure to keep it OFF anything you care about. That stuff sticks like sh!t to a hairy blanket and it will wreck paint.

I found that the toughest part of using it is sealing the petcock holes and the fuel filler hole. I used a big cork from a wine-making store for the fuel filler and I made a couple of blanking plates out of old hotel door entry cards for the petcock holes. I just used some duct tape as a "gasket" and drilled holes in 2 layers of hotel "credit" cards and used the petcock screws to hold them on. It worked fine and protected the screw holes from the chemicals.

Tape - of any kind - is a total waste of time. Despite what they say in the on-line videos. there is just too much water and other chemicals sloshing around during the process - and the tape simply died.

The other challenge with POR15 is keeping the tank moving long enough to distribute it evenly all over the inside of the tank while it begins to cure. I found that I had to keep it moving for AT LEAST 2-3 hours and I gotta tell you, it was exhausting. I finally sat on a stool at my workbench and rested my elbows on the bench while slowly rolling the tank over and over and over.....

Finally, I found the sealer stuff to be a bugger to get OUT of the tank. There is always a little bit left over and you don't want a big lump left in there to harden. I fiddled around for about an hour or more trying to get the last tablespoon of stuff out through the fuel filler hole - and finally, my arms were dying, so I hung the tank upside down (filler hole down) and rear end of the tank up in the air so that any residual POR15 sealer would harden right up front in the tank (just ahead of the fuel filler hole) and up high and as far away from the petcocks as possible.

However, it is WORTH IT - because the inside of the tank is A-1 and that stuff is tough as nails.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Dozuki]

Well nuts. I wish I had seen that before I started this process. I completely agree about the duct tape. That didn't work for crap on the cleaner stage. It started leaking all over the place about 10 minutes in. Luckily it wa just a cleaner degreaser. I didn't have any cork material so I used packing tape for the metal etch and that worked like a charm. Just had to make sure it was all dry around the holes when I taped it.

Oh man the crap that came out of there. Hell when I drained the fuel it came out mud brown. I have the tank drying now before I start the actual coating process.

 

[Dozuki]

And while I was draining the fuel I was poking around and I think my chain is way to lose. I can lift it a good two inches. So there is another thing for the list.

 

[Bob Kelly III]

yah ! that's what has caused the Carb problem Dozuki you can count on that.... !
put in an in line filter when you have the carbs off...that will help keep junk out of the carbs.
the rear chain should be set to about 3/4" slack at it's tightest point... roll the tire and see where the chain is the tightest then adjust up the axle equally on each side ... re check it several times before locking it down good...
.....
Bob.......

 

[MaxPete]

Every old bike has a "list" - welcome to the club!

 

[Dozuki]

Ha ha. That's the truth. It just seems to get longer every time I look at it.

Here is what came out.

 

[Michaelo]

Oh dear, that's a sad picture

 

[azman857]

HOLY CRAP! someone had to say it......Someone left the cap open a while somewhere along the way.

 

[fredintoon]

And while I was draining the fuel I was poking around and I think my chain is way to lose. I can lift it a good two inches. So there is another thing for the list.

Hi Dozuki,
when you get around to tightening your bike's drive chain, check it for wear too.
Pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at about the 3 o'clock position as far as it will go.
If it lifts off the sprocket more than about half a roller's worth it's at the end of it's working life.
Replace the chain and sprockets as a set so they'll wear in together and last longer.
Here's a photo of a sprocket that's been ridden many thousands of miles past it's "best before" date:-

 

[Michaelo]

Replace the chain and sprockets as a set so they'll wear in together and last longer.

*2, now that's so true....well said Fred, right said Fred

 

[Bob Kelly III]

Mick are you sure it's not "Left said Fred ? " LOL
LOL Fred ! that Pic get's allot of milage don't it ! hehehe Dozuki replace your sprockets before they ware that far down PLEASE!!!!!!
......Tiz true ! if you just replace the chain the old sprocks will wear the new chain prematurly but it will still last many many miles
so if you can afford it replace the primary sprocket the drive chain and the rear sprocket all at the same time !
......
my 2 coppers !
Bob..........

 

[650Skull]

I might suggest that when you get the chain set right, if you have a drum brake on the rear, that when you tighten the axle nut you hold the brake pedal down. This expands the pads out to press evenly on the drum to center the drum around the pads. This will help the brake work better, both pads will hit the drum at the same time.

 

[Bob Kelly III]

What a GREAT idea !!!!! thanks Skull ! that's one I I will use !!!!!
.....
Bob.......

 

[MaxPete]

All good stuff guys - and Dozuki, the point is that if you use this order to prioritize your list:

1. SAFE
2. RELIABLE
3. PRETTY

....you'll be able to start riding more quickly and begin enjoying your bike sooner (not that working on it isn't fun...).

Cheers,

Pete.

 

[Dozuki]

Feedintoon. That is a good idea. I think the chain and sprocket are both new but I will verify that.

659skull I will try that even if they are new. The brakes don't grab for crap.

Maxpete. That is true. Safety first. When you did the actual POR15 coating how did you keep it from blocking the pet clock openings or from hardening around what you used to keep them open.

 

[MaxPete]

Feedintoon. That is a good idea. I think the chain and sprocket are both new but I will verify that.

659skull I will try that even if they are new. The brakes don't grab for crap.

Maxpete. That is true. Safety first. When you did the actual POR15 coating how did you keep it from blocking the pet clock openings or from hardening around what you used to keep them open.

GOOD QUESTION: I don't think you can prevent that so all I did was "carve" off the excess POR15 stuff with a sharp knife and then clean the openings up with a small file and some emory cloth. It worked like a charm.

Pete

 

[Dozuki]

I was thinking something along those lines. Just have to keep it as open as I can while sloshing it around. Thanks

 

[Dozuki]

here is a little update. I finally got the POR 15 lining in my tank and when they say don't let it get on the paint they mean it. I thought I had it taped up but I was wrong. as I was sloshing it around I saw one drop come out and go under the tape somehow, I suspect magic, so I had to take the tape and covering off to get at the POR 15 before it set up. Any way it is curing now and it looks like I got a good covering inside going by what I can see which isn't really all that much. fingers crossed. Carbs are next.

 

[MaxPete]

I found that if you let it completely cure so that it is hardened right up, you can likely pry off a little blob of it with a sharp knife (Exacto style) without hurting the paint (too much).