PHANTOM RESURRECTION 78 SPECIAL

YamadudeXS650C said:
Yes, It is advised to remove the pistons to take a look see at the small rod ends. If you post a picture of the bearing surfaces we'll help you with your decision on what to do next.



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Every so often I run into a snag. This happened multiple times with that CAMARO. In pure economic terms, the time spent solving the snags is not worth it. But I have gotten more out of these resurrections than material gain. The time and money invested is certainly a consideration but I tend to see benefits to my well-being as a factor.
The sense of accomplishment, and the patience practiced add to the rebuild experience. I’m sure other Yamahamians know what I’m saying to be true.
I do thank you for the tips and want you to know my appreciation.
 
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The Phantom said:
Sitting on the bike, which is cylinder #1? Also. I’ll send pics of the timing chain guides. They look real good.
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Conventionally, on a multi-cylinder m/c engine, the r/h side is defined as the front of the engine, so the r/h cylinder is #1.

But you never really hear folks talking about cylinders #1 #2.
 
The Phantom said:
Sitting on the bike, which is cylinder #1? Also. I’ll send pics of the timing chain guides. They look real good.
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Just left and right is adequate, as you sit on the bike.

It's great that you are discovering some good looking parts!

Look closely at the front cam chain guide. It tends to get brittle and the rubber runner tends to delaminate from the aluminum guide after all these years.




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At 5:30 Southern standard time, the damaged piston was removed, that is #2 piston. If the dark area is wear, then it’s at 6 o’clock with a smaller patch at 3:00. The rest is clean. Tomorrow I’ll pull # 1
As far as the head is concerned, our last machine shop will look at it Monday. If he can knurl the stem sleeves, maybe that will keep the oil consumption down. The pistons have a layer of carbon fairly thick.
 

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The Phantom said:
At 5:30 Southern standard time, the damaged piston was removed, that is #2 piston. If the dark area is wear, then it’s at 6 o’clock with a smaller patch at 3:00. The rest is clean. Tomorrow I’ll pull # 1
As far as the head is concerned, our last machine shop will look at it Monday. If he can knurl the stem sleeves, maybe that will keep the oil consumption down. The pistons have a layer of carbon fairly thick.
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Hmmmmmm..... Do those dark areas look like the copper has fully worn off and the steel of the rod is evident? Your pics aren't clear to me.
If so, you have significant wear.
But whether or not you can run the engine with this wear of this small end kinda depends on what you want to do with this bike (and the condition of the other one, of course); do you want a bike that you will tool around local roads at a moderate speed and rpm, or do you plan to "push it" and run the highways? It might hold together in the first scenario. You will prolly get a variety of opinions on this from the gallery.
Looking forward to seeing the other small end.


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YamadudeXS650C said:
Just left and right is adequate, as you sit on the bike.

It's great that you are discovering some good looking parts!

Look closely at the front cam chain guide. It tends to get brittle and the rubber runner tends to delaminate from the aluminum guide after all these years.

I can say the chain guides look untouched. Is the rubber hard and brittle? Probably so. If quality is good, I would put new ones in. There is no sign of missing or worn rubber.


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YamadudeXS650C said:
Hmmmmmm..... Do those dark areas look like the copper has fully worn off and the steel of the rod is evident? Your pics aren't clear to me.
If so, you have significant wear.
But whether or not you can run the engine with this wear of this small end kinda depends on what you want to do with this bike (and the condition of the other one, of course); do you want a bike that you will tool around local roads at a moderate speed and rpm, or do you plan to "push it" and run the highways? It might hold together in the first scenario.
Looking forward to seeing the other small end.


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I’m just going to do local cruising. If the case has to come apart, I think I’d run her as she is and build it later to a 700 or 750 if I like the bike. I’ll show you better pics tomorrow
 
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I think you’ll be able to see there is a section about 1/4 inch that has totally burned through. Anybody’s guess? Thanks.
The second pic is the left conrod, I just removed the good piston.
Anyone have a spare piston for sale? I’m thinking I’ll put the top end back together with honed jugs and new rings, ride it for a year then upgrade the rebuilt engine. Out of Phase?? What are your thoughts? I’m not married to the idea.
Most of the wear is on the bottom outside edges of this rod end.
 

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Keeping in mind it's always hard to tell from pics.....

I don't see any evidence of galling and most of the copper is still there. You need to fit the wrist pins and check for play.... but unless you're building a fire breathing dragon monster bike, I'd use 'em.

Edit: provided the wrist pins are tight.
 
Jim said:
Keeping in mind it's always hard to tell from pics.....

I don't see any evidence of galling and most of the copper is still there. You need to fit the wrist pins and check for play.... but unless you're building a fire breathing dragon monster bike, I'd use 'em.

Edit: provided the wrist pins are tight.
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How about lateral movement after installation? I also buggered up one of the wrist pin clips. Should I bend it back into shape or get new ones? Thanks for the input. I’ll redo the engine in a year if the bike is fun. Thinking about out of phase. What do y’all think?
 
Jim said:
Not sure what you mean...



Get a new one.



I think what you mean is rephase.... from a 360° to a 270° or 277°
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I guess what I mean is, I know it needs to move freely, but I guess I’m just looking for slop.
I’ve looking into rephrase on YouTube. Not sure if it’s worth all the money. Seems people are just trying to get a little less vibration and more of a Harley sound. What are you thoughts? And I appreciate your time and information
 

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