Press and disassembly specifications to rephrase a crankshaft and Yamahas recommendation for rejection?

Oldnwiser

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I was wondering what the specs are for breaking the right side for a rephase to 277/83 , moving three splines forward and pressing back together? I had a Yamaha of press specs for a good or a bad crank. I would rather not weld a crank for future bearing replacement. Sending one to a machine shop, you will likely not get the answers you need to decide if it is one and done and next stop it to a certified welder. What are your thoughts?
 
I don't recall specs for press in lbs., psi, etc. The book gives assembled measurements. Typically a 20ton press is used and I don't recall it straining to fit the pins into the flywheels
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Are you going to run an otherwise stock engine? If not, that crank will eventually "spread" and you will not only be replacing the crank, but everything else besides the rocker covers. Talk to Gary Hoos or Hugh's Handbuilts.
 
Yup cranks spreading or scissoring happens.
The harder they're run the greater the chance it's going to happen. A crank that's been pressed apart and reassembled probably has a higher risk of slipping.
FWWIW I don't think a full circle weld is needed 3 short welds should be enough. But I'm neither engineer nor racer.
 
Yup cranks spreading or scissoring happens.
The harder they're run the greater the chance it's going to happen. A crank that's been pressed apart and reassembled probably has a higher risk of slipping.
FWWIW I don't think a full circle weld is needed 3 short welds should be enough. But I'm neither engineer nor racer.
Me neither, hence the reason I recommend talking to Hoos or Hugh's. I have a Hoos crank waiting for me to get my butt in gear and I really like Gary. He's a great guy and gives great service.
 
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No I want to do a 750 cc with the rephase and an XS2 cam . What does anyone do to replace bearings? I would like to use BS38 CV carbs and 2. 1 5/8 pipe inside 1 3/4 pipes going back Bub mufflers. Why does it have to be welded if the press is within the factory specifications? If an engine runs x number of hours and isn’t known for kicking the crank apart and the 277/83 is supposed to help longevity, why would you want to make it a throw away engine/ transmission assembly. I would rather be able to replace bearings and if it gets within y of minimum specifications for press then welding is needed. It seems like a super strong set of Jack screws and washers in the ends of the crank pin would be a better solution. If it is on the tight side of the press spec should it need welding? It would seem like all XS cranks need welding? Or does just the right side need welding? I am confused. I have heard of it but I wondered why? Thanks guys!
 
If it is just three tacks they can be heated and carefully chopped out for bearing service right? If that’s the case then it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks! Maybe all XS cranks by now need it?
 
We all make our own choices. :twocents: XS cranks are far from rare, if you need a fresh crank core at rebuild time it's not hard or expensive to find one. A crank scissoring or spreading won't be at your convenience. I had a stock 650 go from running great to a crank end wobbling like a drunk on a bender, on a normal back road ride in 20 miles time. Since it was a stock motor a low mile barn find motor went in it's place in several hours labor.
I have a hot rodded 750 motor that was on a used bike and I've run up another 12,000 plus miles (some of those quite hard) no idea of whether the crank was welded at the flat track motor builder's shop.
Two more cents. To build a hot motor, 447 internals are good idea. Those 22mm small ends are not as robust as the later 20mm rods.
 
If it is just three tacks they can be heated and carefully chopped out for bearing service right? If that’s the case then it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks! Maybe all XS cranks by now need it?
My thoughts exactly!
Again I'm not an engineer but those press fits prolly relax some over time.
 
If it is just three tacks they can be heated and carefully chopped out for bearing service right? If that’s the case then it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks! Maybe all XS cranks by now need it?
I guess it depends how hard you run them. Lotsa' folks out there that know more than I do. The late Dick Russell's engine was 700cc with a Shell cam from Hoos Racing and a lot of Cylinder head work done to it. Dick told me that he had that bike up to 118 MPH and still had throttle left and could outrun 750's. One thing that I'll recommend to you is bite the bullet and put Carrillo rod's in it if you're gonna' be running it hard.
 
I guess it depends how hard you run them. Lotsa' folks out there that know more than I do. The late Dick Russell's engine was 700cc with a Shell cam from Hoos Racing and a lot of Cylinder head work done to it. Dick told me that he had that bike up to 118 MPH and still had throttle left and could outrun 750's. One thing that I'll recommend to you is bite the bullet and put Carrillo rod's in it if you're gonna' be running it hard.
Rode that bike a couple times, nice runner. Motor had lots of pep.
 
Rode that bike a couple times, nice runner. Motor had lots of pep.
Lucky you! I'm kinda' going that route on my tracker project, minus the high dollar head work (maybe later). I still may go 750, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra $$$. I'll consult Gary Hoos before I pull that trigger.
 
Lucky you! I'm kinda' going that route on my tracker project, minus the high dollar head work (maybe later). I still may go 750, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra $$$. I'll consult Gary Hoos before I pull that trigger.
What is the journal size and overall length? And is it possible to adapt it to pressure oiling, or is it splash grooves oiling only? I have a friend who is with Morel which is a division of Carillo who makes H-beams for about every thing., I have a set of 6.7 for an FE with a 2.2,journal with the correct fillet radius for the FE. All it would take is the correct length and wrist pin and grooving the scuppers to carry oil. With the roller bearings do they have dowels or are they press fit? Would the 533 design work better?
 
What is the journal size and overall length? And is it possible to adapt it to pressure oiling, or is it splash grooves oiling only? I have a friend who is with Morel which is a division of Carillo who makes H-beams for about every thing., I have a set of 6.7 for an FE with a 2.2,journal with the correct fillet radius for the FE. All it would take is the correct length and wrist pin and grooving the scuppers to carry oil. With the roller bearings do they have dowels or are they press fit? Would the 533 design work better?
I'm the wrong person to ask. I can assemble an engine, but I'm not an "engine builder". Hopefully one of our more engine tech savvy members will chime in and be of help to you. I will give you one piece of advice though, be patient. A job well planned is half finished before you start.
 
I like the suggestions here, 10 years ago I would have tackled this but I think that the case at least needs to go to Hugh’s to be lightened and balanced at 277/83 with 750 ccs and maybe even the block. Is the Hieden block good? They claim adequate cooling for a 750 from deeper thickness and fins. At 9.25:1 with a rephrase XS2 duplicate grind, it should have the grunt. Maybe we’ll get a sidecar so my son or wife can run me around, 😂
 
I like the suggestions here, 10 years ago I would have tackled this but I think that the case at least needs to go to Hugh’s to be lightened and balanced at 277/83 with 750 ccs and maybe even the block. Is the Hieden block good? They claim adequate cooling for a 750 from deeper thickness and fins. At 9.25:1 with a rephrase XS2 duplicate grind, it should have the grunt. Maybe we’ll get a sidecar so my son or wife can run me around, 😂
Also check out 650 central on the 750 kit. Heidens was not shipping stateside awhile back. Also, I would give strong consideration to Hoos Racing. It's less expensive to keep it a 360, that's not to say there's anything wrong with a rephase either. Hoos also rephases. Check out his website. You are wise to let a full time engine guy take on a job of this magnitude. You can't beat a man at his own trade.
 
So we are all clear, the heiden "big fin" the one MikesXS sells and the one I linked above all came from the same vendor.
I "think" the pistons come from the same source Crusin' image uses and they have a long track record of good performance/ longevity.
 
I really enjoyed my XS2, your hands and feet would go numb about the time you needed to fill the tank.. I wish I could find one that’s all original , they go for good money.
 
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