short brake linkage for mids to aftermarket mc

emzdogz

emzdogz

Aunty Em
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Here's what I've got. The fittings swivel so it works really well even though the rod is at an angle rather than running straight from pedal pivot to pivot on master cyl.
I'm just wondering if using it this way will put extra stress on the fittings. And they're not "swiveled" all the way, even! Apparently one could install them even farther offset from each other. Tomorrow I might make a spacer to move the MC to the outside a bit, which will put them more nearly inline. But I'd rather not as I like the fact that the MC now sits sort of right over the frame rail, rather than hanging out to the right (to the outside). thx for looking.

picture.php


also just for laffs, here's a little vid...

http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/emzpublic/XS%2009/brake%20pivot%20and%20MC/?action=view&current=P1010038.flv
 
Hi Aunty Em
Looks like it works ok in your video but if there is room, could you not mount the brake linkage on the other side of the rear brake pedal pivot? it looks like it may be less of an angle that way & you could also use a spacer at the master cylinder end to align it better. hard to explain in words tho, hope you get what I mean
kev
 
KevC said:
Hi Aunty Em
Looks like it works ok in your video but if there is room, could you not mount the brake linkage on the other side of the rear brake pedal pivot? it looks like it may be less of an angle that way & you could also use a spacer at the master cylinder end to align it better. hard to explain in words tho, hope you get what I mean
kev
Click to expand...

hi Kev, yep I totally get what you mean.
:) If I flip it around at the brake pivot that puts it almost the same amount crooked the other way.
Thinking I may make a spacer for the MC out of another piece of flat stock, same stock as the mount I welded on that the mc is mounted to. That'll buy me either 1/8 or 3/16 inch.

The other thing that occurred to me was to cut off half of the clevis at the MC (cut off the inner fork of the clevis). Looks like this MC that Mike's sells was intended also for use with cable activation. One side of the clevis has a slot in it, like for you to insert a ferrule for a cable. So if I de-clevised it...i.e. cut off one of the fork legs and just used the remaining one to hook the rod hardware up to, that would help too. But that makes me nervous. No idea how strong the metal is that this (probably Chinese made) master cyl. is made from. It would be awful if it broke.

I'll have at it again tomorrow. Thanks again for looking.
:)
 
emzdogz said:
Thinking I may make a spacer for the MC out of another piece of flat stock, same stock as the mount I welded on that the mc is mounted to. That'll buy me either 1/8 or 3/16 inch.
Click to expand...

use several washers to build up the correct spacer thickess Em, then when its aligned correctly you will know what thickness your spacer needs to be :thumbsup:
 
the other thing I could do is cut the stock brake pivot arm and reweld it to make it stick out 1/4 or so farther. Hate to risk ruining that piece, altho I'm sure I could get a cheap used one. (I guess) It would be a setback though. Another thing I relaized today - I will need a new brake line. None of the various old ones I have around will work.

no prob tho, its all fun for me, and part of the process.
 
There are always a 100 solutions to a single problem Aunty Em :D
No probs with the brake line, just get a made to measure stainless braided one, black or clear coated, looks great, lasts forever and cheaper than OEM :thumbsup:
 
hi em...if you go back and edit your post, inside the square brackets before and after the url are IMG, add the word 'resize' immediately after them but inside the bracket and the images will be automatically sized to the page...IMGresize and /IMGresize
 
inxs said:
hi em...if you go back and edit your post, inside the square brackets before and after the url are IMG, add the word 'resize' immediately after them but inside the bracket and the images will be automatically sized to the page...IMGresize and /IMGresize
Click to expand...

lol you mean you don't need to see the detail of the actual molecules the materials are made of???
:wink2:
gotcha...wil try to remember next time.
 
- theres nothing wrong with quantum theory as applied to physics and chemistry or even free jazz :D ...im just a lazy bastard and hate scrolling the page laterally :laugh: thanx:thumbsup:
 
Instead of cutting and welding, can you just bend the plate on the pivot shaft? Looks like there is plenty of room to bend the plate in toward the center of the bike.
 
:agree::agree::agree::agree: with Leo, just move the pivot on the pedal in and put both rod pin's in from the same side. Look's to be just a matter of bending that tab in about1/8-1/4 inch.
 
I don't do well bending... plus if it gets bent outward it won't be straight up and down anymore.
ANyway, I messed with the whole thing today and it is much straighter now.

Spaced the MC outward with longer bolts and a nut used as a spacer before the threaded bores of MC. So it now sits maybe 1/4 inch outboard more than before. Also removed the big tubing that the pedal pivot shaft runs through (it was only tacked on anyway) and repositioned it a bit. Flipped it around so the boss formerly on the outside which sticks out more, now is on the inside - thereby moving that inward. Did alot of grinding on it to smooth it out. Welded it on all the way (was just tacked on before. Also one the pedal pivot arm I ground away maybe 1/16th off the surface that the bolt from linkage contacts. SO I bought myself 14 inch one way at the MC and maybe 1/8 to 3/16 at the pedal pivot, so the linkage is much straighter now. Not so much of a "z".
I need to order a good braided steel line before I can go on wit this. Might rebuild the back caliper. Or maybe not! Its not frozen up. Got the fender to work on til I can afford a brake line.
One thing about my project - its very limited by shortness of funds for tools and parts.

Another thing I can do in between is go ahead and hook up the front brake. I have a great brake line for that! Hook up the control housings, throttle, clutch etc.

So that's it for me for today on the bike.
Thanks to all who responded and offered ideas.
:D
 
- the rod ends? most good bearing shops or engineering supply shops should have them
- use the female rod ends and join with threaded rod and a backing nut to lock it, can also strengthen by inserting the threaded rod into an appropriate length of tube
Aerospace%20Rod%20End%20Female%20330px(p390k2).jpg
 
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