Steering Damper

[outkast1985]

I initially wanted to remove my steering damper but after reading it seems that it's better to keep. Can someone please explain to me what it does and how it works?
Thanks

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Have a read thru this thread:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=372940#post372940

Might find more info in the 'similar threads' listed at the bottom...

 

[outkast1985]

Thanks 2M I was wondering if I should leave it or delete it. I just didn't know it's main purpose or how exactly ignore worked. I guess my next question is is there a way to close the top and bottom holes that are left when it's gone.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... I guess my next question is is there a way to close the top and bottom holes that are left when it's gone.

The bottom hole is splined. I suppose you could turn an aluminum button and press fit it in there.

The top steering stem nut was one of my incomplete research projects long ago. I had intended to rummage thru our Cycle Salvage stock and find a suitable top nut that thread matched, just never got that far. This would be one of those 'junkyard dog' projects.

 

[angus67]

I like the one on my 71. After doing a bearing conversion, it turned too easy, cranked that sucker and am glad i kept it

 

[fredintoon]

Thanks 2M I was wondering if I should leave it or delete it. I just didn't know it's main purpose or how exactly ignore worked. I guess my next question is is there a way to close the top and bottom holes that are left when it's gone.

Hi outkast.
what we used to do back when all bikes came with steering dampers was to leave them loose for riding solo and screw them down for sidecar work.
That's the old-fashioned screw-down friction plate dampers like the early XS650s had, of course.
Modern sport bikes use hydraulic piston dampers to calm down their hyper-quick steering but that's them, not us.
But yours? zero cost, zero effort fix, just leave it loose like it was still 1957.
If the damper just has to go, replace the steering stem cap with a later one that don't have a hole in it or plug the hole in the existing cap with a stainless steel button Allen head M6 fastener with a nylok nut inside.
The bottom hole can safely be ignored.

 

[NONclow]

I like the look AND function of mine. Since I never really stop tinkering I'm always adjusting it.

....or plug the hole in the existing cap with a stainless steel button Allen head M6 fastener with a nylok nut inside.

Stainless bolt up from the inside, red locktite and a stainless acorn nut on top.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I was planning on sticking a "Sparkbrite" voltmeter LED in the steering stem nut's hole.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=280335#post280335
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=281101#post281101

 

[outkast1985]

Thanks guys the look don't bother me or that it's there really. My vision on the bike was to strip it down as much as possible this being why I asked about. My bike is a 73 xs/tx the front end Is raked a little and I've added a tc brothers hard tail and that's where my project got haulted do to life. I picked back up on it a week ago and started my research on replacing the regulator an rectifier with a one piece. Have any of you guys used the JBM industry replacement diaphragms

 

[outkast1985]

Thanks guys the look don't bother me or that it's there really. My vision on the bike was to strip it down as much as possible this being why I asked about. My bike is a 73 xs/tx the front end Is raked a little and I've added a tc brothers hard tail and that's where my project got haulted do to life. I picked back up on it a week ago and started my research on replacing the regulator an rectifier with a one piece. Have any of you guys used the JBM industry replacement diaphragms for the bs 38 carborator

 

[outkast1985]

The stainless rod and acorn nut idea is a good one. Couldn't I use the damper and replace the knob with and acorn nut and have the best of both worlds

 

[NONclow]

Compromise.

My idea was for detailing the cap itself, not functioning with an acorn. The big knob is for fine (small) incremental adjustments, more noticeable while riding than stationary. If a rod and acorn nut are used it should be for looks.
I believe it would be damn near impossible to find the "sweet spot" with a small nut and wrench. Your longer rake and therefore wheelbase likely makes it more stable tho......

Plug it with class and !

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

If you want to keep the damper function, it'll need some sort of detent, otherwise it'll loosen (or worse) tighten up on you from vibration.

You could use anything you want for a knob. Get creative...

 

[outkast1985]

Thanks all for the advice was gunnar put up a picture of the beast as she sits but get get it to load

 

[outkast1985]

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