tach and spedo

Doug79

XS650 Addict
Messages
391
Reaction score
188
Points
43
Location
Kennewick Wa.
OK I give, how does the black trim ring come off the face of the tach and spedo? Ive tried unscrewing them, that didn't work and swearing at them didn't seem to do much good either.
 
I think it's crimped on so there is really no easy way to get it off.
 
OK I give, how does the black trim ring come off the face of the tach and spedo? Ive tried unscrewing them, that didn't work and swearing at them didn't seem to do much good either.
If you mean the ring that holds the glass on the gauges, it doesn't or at least was not designed to be removed.

That being said they can be removed with lots of patience and careful use of a small screwdriver. From the back side you can carefully pry up on the crimped over part a little at a time working around the gauge. Then once you are done doing what ever you wanted it off to do you have to carefully recrimp the ring back in place. There are other methods but that is the way I did one of my own years ago.

Try doing a Google search on "Open speedometer of motorcycle" or something of that nature, never know what you might find!
 
I wonder what kind, if any, options I would have to replace them. Maybe somebody has done that. I really don't want a used set. I already have those.
 
They do come up on Ebay as NOS, but you don't want to pay the price. Last one I saw was over $500.
Leo
 
I wonder what kind, if any, options I would have to replace them. Maybe somebody has done that. I really don't want a used set. I already have those.
Hi Doug,
like Ken sez, those rings are coined on and ain't meant to come off again.
Yes, if you have the skills of a watchmaker and the patience of a Saint you can pry their undersides up enough to remove them.
What Mr Bodger did was to carefully cut them into two half-circles with a cutting disk in a Dremel tool and pry the halves off sideways.
To put the halves back onto the instrument, leave out one of the rubber rings and stick them back on with epoxy.
Note that this'll only work once.
 
If you mean the ring that holds the glass on the gauges, it doesn't or at least was not designed to be removed.

That being said they can be removed with lots of patience and careful use of a small screwdriver. From the back side you can carefully pry up on the crimped over part a little at a time working around the gauge. Then once you are done doing what ever you wanted it off to do you have to carefully recrimp the ring back in place. There are other methods but that is the way I did one of my own years ago.

Try doing a Google search on "Open speedometer of motorcycle" or something of that nature, never know what you might find!
Patience, yes, but not too bad. I got that ring off whole, put the face back together, and crimped the ring back on in an afternoon.

Slow and steady, making moves that don't seem to do much, the ring can be pried up with not too much hassle.

You'll want a small sharp-ish screwdriver to start. This is just to get the edge up enough that you can go in with a dull awl or similar tool to start the real work.

As you're working, it's not so much prying up, but slowly stretching it open by running the flat, smooth, dull edge of your tool against as much of the folded edge as you can.

A smooth, dull tool slowly working as much surface area as possible prevents tears.
 
Just what kind of trouble are you having with the ones you have?

I've replaced cracked glass faces, re-installed loose screws, installed additional indicator lights to be able to remove the light tree and set mileage on a new to me speedo to reflect the bikes actual miles.
Good tips have been given to get the ring off......I'll add that I use a wide slot screwdriver with a good edge and use the body of the speedo as a leverage and twist against the ring.....a little at a time. Usually going a little more than halfway around the ring will get you to where it'll come off.
Getting everything back together sometimes requires a bit of lube, you'll know if you need to. Dielectric grease is good.
Once it's back together, it gets laid face down on some softwood and using a tack hammer to tap the crimp back down.
 
I agree with the removal method however, when I install these bezels back on the instrument I apply pressure to the back of the instrument whilst pushing it down on a soft towel and then rolling back on with a small hammer. Once you have gone around and think it is all done use a small cold chisel (blunt) to tap the bezel down some more. This is the process I used when I worked for an instrument shop. Just take your time and it will work.
 
Link to my album, Gauge Repair...............Click on each pic for a description,...............Go through and read each pic in order before stating.

http://www.xs650.com/media/albums/gauge-repair.1728/

I think the secret to getting a tight refit of the bezel, when reinstalling on the cup, is to leave a small portion 8-10% and slide it out . When it goes back together the tight fit is as per original and its easier to get the rest of the Bezel back on the cup with a good seal as per factory.
 
Last edited:
My faces weathered and curled both gauges appear to work fine so this is a cosmetic, but necessary, repair..where should I look for replacement gauge faces?
 
I like the method of using a lathe, but only problem, I don't have a lathe:(

Hi RG,
most latheless folks have a "Bro with lathe" that would help them but the video only
shows how to coin the bezel back on after the work's been done to the instrument.
Getting the bezel off in the first place is has still to be done with patience and prying.
 
My faces weathered and curled both gauges appear to work fine so this is a cosmetic, but necessary, repair..where should I look for replacement gauge faces?

You could look in the classifieds section for whole replacements of the gauges or see if anybody has some gauges torn down.
I'm of the opinion that the ratio of the speedo drive gear never changed BUT the mechanism in the speedo may have, as there're different speed measurements on the faces....some to 85, 120 and 140mph.....so, speedo faces should be swapped same for same or if going with a different upper speed indication get the drive also.

The plastic that is the base of the face, that which the decal is adhered to, can be yellow or green depending on year or model. The color of that plastic reflects to the color of the speedo when lit up.....so if going with a different year or different model of gauges than what you have it's best to get the pair, speedo and tach together.

The trickiest part of changing the plastic faces out is removing the indicator needle without breaking it up.
 
Last edited:
Amen on that NJ. I got the tach needle off, barely bumped it and it broke in half. One of the problems I have is that the plastic disc that the decals mount on are both warped. the tach is way worse than the spedo. Since I have nothing to lose I think I will try and soften the disc with heat and place a weight on it while it cools to see if it is possible to straighten it out. If that works, I can probably salvage the Spedo. right now, I think the Tach is a lost cause. They don't seem to offer decals for the 79 so if this works, I will just clean up and use the origional decal.
 
I have some yellow plastic faces that have been removed, a stock Special tach with the hi beam lens in and then i have a tach face from an sr500, they have turn, hi beam and neutral indicators punched out though the faded red line starts at 7k.....no colored plastic lenses in the indicator openings. I've a Special faceplate speedo up to 85(?) and another up to 120 or 140...... All yellow plastic. No needles, might have the needle stop pins intact. They're not warped, so keep it in mind as they're collecting dust, though they don't eat anything and don't cost me anything to keep.........lol

Theres a nice set of standard gauges in the classifieds, though with a custom mount bracket they're a bit pricey in my humble opinion........
 
Last edited:
Too bad they don't offer the right decals, but they can if you're willing to wait. They will only create decals from original parts for accuracy. If you are willing to provide them with original parts/artwork they will use your parts to copy and produce new decals and will give you a set free for helping provide originals to copy. Turn around time is about 3-4 weeks for tank and tin decals, don't know what it would be for gauge decals. If you're not in a rush might be worth firing off an email. I have dealt with them and they are good people.

Edit: they are a local company to me so don't know what shipping would cost you to get them up here and who would pay to ship your parts back.
 
Back
Top