Time to spend some money...suggestions?

RPC3

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I tend to ramble, so the quick of it is:

I have ~$500 I'd like to spend on my '78. Brake, suspension, and charging system are in good shape. New wire harness, modern regulator, and rectifier. Tires and wheels are okay.

Old components I'd like to replace are: drive train and ignition system.

Bike is '78 standard. Current status is that the bike runs a bit off; isolated to a carb problem. Carb was given a rebuild/clean/throttle shaft seal replacement, but still a small leak causing warm idle fluctuations or occasional stalling. Working through this...I can still drive around, but I wouldn't feel great about taking a long trip as things currently stand.

Okay - I'm going to start rambling now. I was close to selling the bike and just opting for something modern and retro styled as I don't have a mechanical background. I'm good at reading and researching thoroughly so I've been able to do a number of things to my bike, but it probably takes longer than most as I really only have myself and the internet/shop manuals to rely on. Ultimately decided I'd rather try to get this bike running and reliable for at least another year. I don't have kids yet, so I still have a little free time...but I really need to start riding more than tinkering. I really like the idea of upgrading to a pamco with an e-advancer. The timing on my bike is spot on, but I'm on a 40 year old coil and condensers, and honestly I hate the number of variables that can be off on the points/mechanical advancers, so I'd like to go with a coil/pamco kit. It just seems like a smart upgrade, and I have no affinity for keeping this stock to the bone. I want my bike to be vintage but with modern aspects.

My drive train is one of the other things that I've yet to touch or upgrade on my bike. The chain has a lot of wear, so I'd like to throw on a new x-ring chain with stock toothed front and rear sprockets (and I'll need new lock washers...anything else?). One other note is that the bike came with aftermarket, slightly oversized rear shocks, to the point where my chain *just* touches my chainguard. I'm tempted to just remove the chain guard, but I might try and just grind a portion of it out to give the chain a hair more clearance.

Back to the carbs - I have an older post where 5Twins suggested some alternate jetting, so I plan on taking my carbs back apart one more time to double check the fitting of everything and put the suggested jets in (I've got a stock set up save for aftermarket mufflers that are a bit less restrictive. Stock is 27.5/135, I have 27.5/145, I'm going to try 30/137.5). I also need to pay better attention to the choke plunger, I did not rebuild that part first time around. So I'm not quite spent on options there. For the time being, lets assume I did everything else correct regarding timing adjustments, carb adjustments, carb balancing, syncing, etc).

So for my shopping list (And I'm open to suggestions), I'm somewhere along the lines of:

http://www.mikesxs.net/product/14-0910.html - Pamco/coil/e-advance - $275
Mikes - 17/34 tooth sprockets, front sprocket lock washer, set of rear sprocket bolt tabs - $75 (am I okay re-using old bolts/nuts?)
New chain - $35 (Volar or DID on ebay) or up to $65 off Mikes. Don't really feel like spending more for extra tools to install an o-ring
Pair of new jets - ~$15

Gets me to about $400. I figure if I can get the pamco and drive chain installed, then I'll just be down to the carbs. Obviously our friends at MikesXS are a bit steep on the shipping. I'm using oem stuff when I can, but I think for lock washers and third party stuff they should be okay.

If I can do the above (and get the carbs working properly) then I think I'm in pretty good shape. My only oil leak requires the tach drive seal/o-ring job which I'm just putting off because its pretty minor. There are a few minor things like thoroughly de-rust the gas tank (it isn't bad now, and I've got fuel filters on) and maybe replace the running lights with LEDs, but otherwise I'd be to where I want to be at.

As always, thanks in advance
 
Hi RPC3,
You can buy hot new coils and replace the condensers for the cost of the Pamco switch and still have enough change left over to buy new chain & sprockets.
And what tools do you think you need to install an o-ring chain?
It can be done with a vise-grip and an M6 nut for a spacer so long as you use a horseshoe clip style master link.
 
for your rusty tank, use evap-o-rust. fill it completely full, and let it sit for a week. every night, slosh it around a little. Make sure you have a few gallons of gas to put in the tank right after you wash out the evap-o-rust stuff, or your tank will flash rust right before your eyes.
get your jets at niche cycle source, or jets r us. Get genie mikuni brass, get fuel filters for the gas line, 6 spark plugs. I just went thru 6 trying to get my 71 running.
hmmmm......what else.....oh, patience and a box fan pointed at the engine.
Carbs are a big part of these running good. Just when you think its electrical problem, turns out to be carbs.
if your advancer is still good, just get the basic pamco. I have that on my 71, works great. Then use resistor caps(5k at mikesxs) and a hand full of autolite ap63 plugs.
freds right. chain is a non-issue. but please use a permanent link. clip links can come off. especially the aftermarket cheap ones. Yamaha used them for a while, my 71 still has one, but its a yama part, ==quality.
Use your chain guard. If the chain comes loose, it bunches up, and smashes the hell out of the left side of the motor.
 
I was close to selling the bike and just opting for something modern and retro styled as I don't have a mechanical background.

IMO I'd get the carb situation ironed out first. Perhaps a "tune up of sorts" even. etc do what's needed for you to feel 100% with the bike on long rides. I'd suggest not getting the Pamco if, as you stated, you're not mechanically inclined. If you do decide to purchase one perhaps factor in getting a shop to install it, if you can find one. I see the is a lot of difficulty in installing it properly. A hour paid to install it by a shop is 3 or four good hours you could be upgrading, cleaning and doing other things.
 
My vote is for a 32 rear sprocket. Just did mine happy with results.

Double check production date on tires, may look fine but could be years old. Replace if older than 5 years.

Agree with genuine mikuni jets.

Blade fuses if that does not come with new harness.

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I'm a big fan of the Pamco, not so much of the Mike's Chinese spark makers (coils). I would suggest the basic coil-less E-advance Pamco (14-0903) and add your own better aftermarket brand name coil, like this Andrews .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Andrews-2-8...240-/311329647724?hash=item487cb16c6c&vxp=mtr

You'll have to add plug wires and caps, but that's no big deal. You should still be able to save a few bucks over the cost of the Mike's kit with coil, and get a better coil in the process.

I don't think the 650 needs a fancy o-ring chain. I would recommend the standard D.I.D. one. Supposedly, theirs is one of the best standard chains on the market.

You made no mention of replacing your carb intake boots. If they're originals, it's probably time. They could be the source of that random air leak.
 
Thanks for the input.

5Twins - you're correct, I haven't replaced my intake boots yet, but I didn't notice any air leaks when testing with starter fluid last summer/fall. If there was a reliable place to buy replacements then I wouldn't be against just replacing them, but I've heard the Mikes sets are junk and otherwise am only aware of taking a stab at a used pair on ebay. Is there another alternative?
 
Unfortunately, '78-'79 boots w/ the vacuum nipples are a bit hard to come by. You can use the '74-'77 boots but you'd have no vac nipples for the petcocks (or syncing). However, you can mount the vac tubes from your old boots in the new manifolds. Reports are that the boots from this guy are very good, original ARS brand .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-74-77-X...?fits=Model:XS650&hash=item541d008167&vxp=mtr
 
Al ideas shared above are good ones - only ones I'd add are a fork brace, stem bearings and swing arm bushings, all items covered extensively on this forum. Many of us believe that a voltmeter is a high-value add.
 
Thanks again - got my annual (for now) purchases out last night:


DID 530x104 chain, 17t front sprocket, 34t rear sprocket, front sprocket lock washer,3 rear sprocket tab braces

PAMCO/E-advance kit

Mikuni 30.0 pilot jet/137.5 main jet from Jets r us (that was more expensive than I was expecting..)

A few spare seals and odd/end metric hardware that was either dinged up or missing. Also picked up new o-rings for the needle jets; I never replaced these when I did my carb rebuild (not that the jets felt loose at all), but one more variable to weed out. Got them from mikes, hopefully they'll fit..but for $3 a pair figured I could at least order them and decide to install or not later.


I'm sure I'll be following up with posts to help with specifics down the road, thanks again for the input.
 
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