Since you like to be over the front, as I do, you would benefit highly from straight rate springs up front (rather than the progressive wound springs) and cartridge emulators. Your labored turning is partially due to the bars. You need width and the leverage that comes with it to ease your turn-in effort. Tapered head bearings would help as well. A single disc front would lighten the front wheel and reduce gyroscopic effect and lighten your steering at high speed as well. If you prefer to keep the dual setup, drill your rotors for some lightening, and it also cleans the pads and keeps them performing well. The 27 degree steering angle on your bike is not particularly relaxed, nor exceedingly tight.
As far as practice goes, one thing I do (with the suspension optimized) is to go find a parking lot and turn the tightest circles in both directions I can muster without using the clutch to modulate speed. If you adapt to the low speed turn by shifting your weight to the outside of the turn and pushing the bike down under you, it makes you use your legs to weight the pegs more. This is for low speed turning. In high speed turns, accustom yourself to riding with the balls of your feet on the pegs, and when you set up for a turn, slide your upper body toward the turn, while applying pressure to the inside peg, and your bar effort will be reduced. If you are trying to stay centered and muscle the bike with the short radius of the bars you have, steering will be high effort. Some like to rigid mount a standard, superbike, or daytona type bar, but in this you will give up some vibration absorbtion offered by the isolated bar mounting. Get the head bearings, springs, and emulators done first, and you'll find that your front end is much more crisp with excellent feedback. Add about an inch more of oil height when doing the forks than the manual calls out when you go to the emulators. After that, if it is too harsh over small ripples, take out about 10CC of fork oil from each tube at a time til you hit the sweet spot. Your rear shocks are not really optimal, and may be under damped and over sprung. Longer rear shocks switch the weight bias to the front and quicken steering as well. Michael Morse at
http://www.650central.com/ can get you squared away with a good rear shock option. It's best to call, so I'm told. That's all I have for now.