Welding Aluminium ?

[DB90]

I have the machine AC TIG .and Stick Combo just never used it for TIG yet.
Bought it from China when the freight and custom charges was low I believe they have doubled in price since then
It is a small hole leaking oil It is more a question of stop the leaking than any strength affecting damage
Wont need any long spark time More like a spot will be enough I believe
I am thinking grinding a small grove notch
What is the secret getting it clean , And should one preheat

Nice! Some of those china machines are actually quite nice and reliable. Mine is a Primeweld, which is a china machine. Fantastic machine that has never let me down and I've used it TONS in the 4 years of owning it.

When it comes to welding dirty, oily aluminum you want to grind out a bit of the spot you plan on welding with a carbide burr. Clean it with acetone really well (NO BRAKE CLEANER unless it is the green unchlorinated type). Then you want to preheat to burn some of the oil out, then run your Tig torch over it without adding filler, the cleaning action of the AC will clean and burn out some more oil. After that, start adding a little filler, then grind that filler back out. What you are doing there is essentially adding fresh clean aluminum into the dirty aluminum which then pushes out the dirt. Do that a couple times and then run a final bead and your done.

I'm some cases where the material may be thin, you really want to watch how hot you get the piece. Take breaks and let it naturally cool a bit before continuing. I've found most engine cases to be pretty ok and not warp from heat. But if it is thin and you are able to clamp it down to hold its shape then do that and just watch heat input.

 

[Jan_P]

Thank you Sir this is good advice I appreciate it. The motor is way back in the shed so I cannot do it now.
And I believe illl get the gas and practice some. On scrap pieces se how it feels. Playing with the machine settings.Lots of them -- and gas flow. I have welded daily with acetylene torch and the filler rod in the other hand when working with sheet metal. For 6 months But it was a loooooooong time ago.40 years
I dont believe everything is gone though

 

[DB90]

Thank you Sir this is good advice I appreciate it. The motor is way back in the shed so I cannot do it now.
And I believe illl get the gas and practice some. On scrap pieces se how it feels. Playing with the machine settings.Lots of them -- and gas flow. I have welded daily with acetylene torch and the filler rod in the other hand when working with sheet metal. For 6 months But it was a loooooooong time ago.40 years
I dont believe everything is gone though

Not a problem!
Definitely get some practice in before taking to the motor haha. What kind of machine do you have?

I haven't done much acetylene welding. I would definitely like to! Especially some acetylene brazing. That would be a fun skill to pick up!

 

[toglhot]

They may be cheap where you are, but in Oz an AC Tig is not cheap, $2000. That may be cheap to you, but for someone who doesn't weld that often anymore, it makes more sense to get a Mig. I have a two in one, stick/mig and DC. I have the gauge and leads for the DC, but no point in it for me. The mig and DC do everything I need. If I was going to spend more $ on a welder I'd buy an oxy, of much more use to me than an AC Tig. But again, it all comes down to justification, I manage fine with just a DC and a Mig..

Inclusions in you weld is from operator error, not machine error.
If a boat builder were to use Tig to weld up a boat, I'd hate to think how much the boat would cost.

I did my time as a welder in the 60s and 70s, then gave it away. I have only welded as a hobby since the mid 70s. Comfortable with a stick and oxy.
Back in my welder days, oxy was used for welding aluminium. Oxy is great for fuse welding, brazing and just heating.

 

[DB90]

They may be cheap where you are, but in Oz an AC Tig is not cheap, $2000. That mabe cheap to you, but for someone who doesn't weld that often anymore, it makes more sense tomget a Mig. I have a two in one, stick/mig and DC. Imhave the gaug and leads for the DC, but no pointminmit for me. The mig and DC do everything I need. If I was going to,spend more $ on a welder I'd buy an oxy, of much more use to me than an AC Tig. But again, it all comes down to justification, I manage fine with just a DC and a Mig..

Inclusions in you weld is from operator error, not machine error.
If a boat builder were to use Tig to weld up a boat, I'd hate to think how much the boat would cost.

I can almost guarantee you could find an inverter machine that does AC cheaper than $2000 where you are. There are soooo many companies that offer them now. But yes it does come down to necessity. Oxy/Acetylene are always nice to have around. I need to get one myself.

I didn't mean inclusions. I was talking about improper technique and machine setup. There have been many many many poorly welded boats come through the boat shop I work at. From what I've seen, which is just in my small town in the USA, Tig welded boats don't run that much more expensive than the Mig welded boats.

 

[Jan_P]

Cant see any brand name on it ACDCTIG200PM

Looks like that taken picture from internet

Acetylene brazing is perhaps the simplest .. of all ...Did that at lot in the sheet metal shop
We used to braze a nut on Galvanized steel for holding the intake grid ( not sure about the correct English word )
On ventilation
As with soldering the temperature needs to be right so the Filler floats out and wets the surface
Small flame and then holding the blue tip of the flame at the point where one wanted to Braze.
To cold .it does not flow out .And one can test it while heating .. To hot ..not really a problem .. just take away the flame .
One can see the color of the surface.
One need to place the filler at the right spot so not the thread of the nut got brazed also.
No cleaning before or flux .Dont remember what filler.

One work colleague once Brazed a pipe fitting to a pipe for a petcock for the motorcycle that was more difficult he had the whole thing light red for some time to get it right. Turned it a bit also He was top notch mechanic so I let him do it .But you get the hang of it rather quick .

I once fumbled big time At the lunch hour I was going to Braze a car cooler --top fitting was cracked at the base.
I started to heat and apply filler.Had the dark protection glasses on .. The other fitting the one going to the engine block was Tin Soldered so there was a gap increasing as I heated up over the tin melting point

Stick welded thin galvanized metal .That caused poisonous gases .. I remember some problems with that.

Edit
I dont remember without looking it up what I payed .. But I did not have that much money then --
Pretty certain it was in the US $ 400 to $ 500 range
Cannot say how good it is .

 

[toglhot]

Well, I'm sure, living in the US you would know more about Oz prices than me. Anyway,I'm finished with this nonsense.

 

[DB90]

Well, I'm sure, living in the US you would know more about Oz prices than me. Anyway,I'm finished with this nonsense.

I'm don't mean any offense, and not claiming to know OZ prices better. All I'm saying is that there are so so so many Chinese companies that offer fantastic AC/DC Tig machines for well under $1k. Blue Demon is one of them as well as Primeweld. Both great companies with great machines for the budget minded builders.

Sorry if I came off rude or something. I am just extremely passionate about welding and fabrication. No I'll intent intended!

 

[Jim]

I bought my entire Tig set up brand new for under a grand. It performs just as good as the $9k machine we use at work

Same here. I bought an ALPHA Tig 200 about 8-10 yrs ago. It and a gas bottle was well under a grand. We had an expensive Lincoln at school. Took mine in and about a half dozen of us played with 'em for about a week. About all agreed that one was as good as the other.

I still a frustrated amateur when it comes to aluminum though...

 

[DB90]

Same here. I bought an ALPHA Tig 200 about 8-10 yrs ago. It and a gas bottle was well under a grand. We had an expensive Lincoln at school. Took mine in and about a half dozen of us played with 'em for about a week. About all agreed that one was as good as the other.

I still a frustrated amateur when it comes to aluminum though...

That's awesome! AHP makes the alpha Tig yeah? It's crazy how good the cheap little machines are! Hell I've been very surprised by Harbor Freights Tig machines even! Welding technology has definitely come a long long long way since the 60's & 70's.

Keep trying man! You'll get it! If you ever have any questions feel free to shoot me a message!

 

[Jim]

They may be cheap where you are, but in Oz an AC Tig is not cheap, $2000. That may be cheap to you,

Bullshit old man.
MIG (gas and gasless), stick and TIG, Amazon Aussie.... under 600 bucks.

Sorry if I came off rude or something.

Togl is just a cranky ol' bastard. best to jus' ignore him.

 

[DB90]

Bullshit old man.
MIG (gas and gasless), stick and TIG, Amazon Aussie.... under 600 bucks.


Togl is just a cranky ol' bastard. best to jus' ignore him.


View attachment 256822

Haha! I figured but still not trying to upset anyone. Just trying to have a good ol conversation about something I'm passionate about lol. That machine actually doesn't look half bad!

 

[Jim]

AHP makes the alpha Tig yeah?

Yep. Don't recall what I paid... thinkin' it was around $600, so it's gone up some, but It's a good machine.

https://www.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaTIG...welder&qid=1701926349&sprefix=,aps,177&sr=8-3

 

[DB90]

Yep. Don't recall what I paid... thinkin' it was around $600, so it's gone up some, but It's a good machine.

https://www.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaTIG-Stick-Welder-WARRANTY/dp/B076BSD6PG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=36JCMO5BWB94A&keywords=alpha+tig+welder&qid=1701926349&sprefix=,aps,177&sr=8-3

Nice! I've heard nothing but good things about the Alpha Tig.

 

[toglhot]

I can buy one for $145 on Amazon, that's even cheaper. Probably about the same quality. You are welcome to your rubbish, I'll stick with decent tools.

Bullshit old man.
MIG (gas and gasless), stick and TIG, Amazon Aussie.... under 600 bucks.


Togl is just a cranky ol' bastard. best to jus' ignore him.


View attachment 256822

I may be a cranky old bastard, Jim, but it could be worse, I could be like you!

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

Nice! Some of those china machines are actually quite nice and reliable. Mine is a Primeweld, which is a china machine. Fantastic machine that has never let me down and I've used it TONS in the 4 years of owning it.

When it comes to welding dirty, oily aluminum you want to grind out a bit of the spot you plan on welding with a carbide burr. Clean it with acetone really well (NO BRAKE CLEANER unless it is the green unchlorinated type). Then you want to preheat to burn some of the oil out, then run your Tig torch over it without adding filler, the cleaning action of the AC will clean and burn out some more oil. After that, start adding a little filler, then grind that filler back out. What you are doing there is essentially adding fresh clean aluminum into the dirty aluminum which then pushes out the dirt. Do that a couple times and then run a final bead and your done.

I'm some cases where the material may be thin, you really want to watch how hot you get the piece. Take breaks and let it naturally cool a bit before continuing. I've found most engine cases to be pretty ok and not warp from heat. But if it is thin and you are able to clamp it down to hold its shape then do that and just watch heat input.

Excellent advice DB90!

 

[DB90]

Excellent advice DB90!

Thanks TX!