what about belt drive?

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inxs

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...i have tried this conversion and although it worked well next project i went back to chain and installed a gs750 cush drive rear wheel...requires a new swing arm for the width-a GPZ750 kawasaki or a yamaha radian or fitted hardtail...
for details contact...Dave Raynor... dave650@bigpond.net.au
http://www.xs650.org.au/xsories/belt drives.htm ...

P1000425.jpg

front pulley

rear_sprocket.jpg

rear pulley

PolyChainGTCarbonBlue3.gif

belts

76.jpg

Dave Raynor's

P1000639.jpg

Terry's
 
- actually i liked the set-up, there are advantages, the uncushioned rear wheel is sleek but in my mind is a bad design fault - i have to say it has a very nice form - the lack of cushioning means increased shock loading on the gearbox and clutch...you can see this manifested in the list of common problems...
..(1)broken primary drive/clutch basket shock absorption springs (replace with flat profile heavier springs in the shorter primary slots alternating with vesconite (nylon-like) buffer blocks in the longer secondary slots)...
..(2)problem (1) can help lead to the typical corrugated wearing of the clutch basket fingers (you can lightly file these flat-too heavy handed and you worsen the clunking as you change gear,..also it pays to slightly bevel the friction plate tab edges-helps stop them catching in the rilling or making it worse)...
..(3)broken dogs off gear cogs (requires stripping the motor to fix)

- my problem was with sourcing parts here-gates was unresponsive and the first pulleys i sourced separately through american ebay...because you are restricted to preset belt lengths you either have to make a swing arm yourself or get lucky...radian swingarms are unobtainable here and i was having a problem finding anything else worth modifying...this would be much easier to do while setting up hardtail geometry

...if i remember correctly the pulleys i used were
Gates Polychain GT Sprocket-Pulley
front...8M-40S-21SH
rear....8M-80S-21SH
belt....Gates Polychain GT Carbon ?164V13?
 
I thought you could get belts and pulleys any size,when I was in the uk last time I called into a friends engineering shop,who makes equipment for all sorts of things,and noticed his pulleys,he was going to order me up two pulleys and a belt to hang a hunt magneto off the cam,it would foul the spark plug if mounted direct to the cam.I would assume the same would go for one big enough as a drive belt,don't know for sure if he ever got them as I haven't been back to the uk for a while if he did they are probably very dusty,I don't know I am just assuming.
 
The front pulley without the bush is 45$ on eBay, the rear one seem to run a bit more expensive.

I am continuing work on this project, so lets see how far it goes :)
 
inxs:

How was the pulley fastened to the axle? By the taperlock itself or a special nut?
 
inxs said:
- actually i liked the set-up, there are advantages, the uncushioned rear wheel is sleek but in my mind is a bad design fault - i have to say it has a very nice form - the lack of cushioning means increased shock loading on the gearbox and clutch...you can see this manifested in the list of common problems...
..(1)broken primary drive/clutch basket shock absorption springs (replace with flat profile heavier springs in the shorter primary slots alternating with vesconite (nylon-like) buffer blocks in the longer secondary slots)...
..(2)problem (1) can help lead to the typical corrugated wearing of the clutch basket fingers (you can lightly file these flat-too heavy handed and you worsen the clunking as you change gear,..also it pays to slightly bevel the friction plate tab edges-helps stop them catching in the rilling or making it worse)...
..(3)broken dogs off gear cogs (requires stripping the motor to fix)

- my problem was with sourcing parts here-gates was unresponsive and the first pulleys i sourced separately through american ebay...because you are restricted to preset belt lengths you either have to make a swing arm yourself or get lucky...radian swingarms are unobtainable here and i was having a problem finding anything else worth modifying...this would be much easier to do while setting up hardtail geometry

...if i remember correctly the pulleys i used were
Gates Polychain GT Sprocket-Pulley
front...8M-40S-21SH
rear....8M-80S-21SH
belt....Gates Polychain GT Carbon ?164V13?
Click to expand...
I know this thread is really old but I have been scouring the internet for this kind of information. I am currently in the parts gathering stage of doing my XS650 bobber conversion. I REALLY want to do a belt drive. I already bought the 2 sprockets you had listed. I can't find that belt anywhere. I contacted Gates and they said that is not one of their part numbers. Do you happen to remember/have the part number for the belt?
 
Thanks you for the sources 650skull and twomanyxs1bs, it definitley gives me some direction .
 
I now have 32,000 miles on the belt drive and the only thing I have changed is the rear sprocket. Originally I had 40/80 gearing on the final drive (same as stock) and a Mikes overdrive 5th gear. The gear failed so I went to a stock transmission and 40/75 gearing, had to make a couple minor mods to the swingarm to pull the wheel back a bit further but was not difficult.

Would never want to back to chain drive. The belt is among the best mods I have done to the bike.
 
dps650rider said:
I now have 32,000 miles on the belt drive and the only thing I have changed is the rear sprocket. Originally I had 40/80 gearing on the final drive (same as stock) and a Mikes overdrive 5th gear. The gear failed so I went to a stock transmission and 40/75 gearing, had to make a couple minor mods to the swingarm to pull the wheel back a bit further but was not difficult.

Would never want to back to chain drive. The belt is among the best mods I have done to the bike.
Click to expand...
Do you happen to have/remember the belt part number that you are using? I have 8m-40s-21 and 8m-80s-21 sprockets from gates. I can figure out the pitch but I am coming up blank on the length.
 
A few things I did that I didn't mention, I set the front sprocket so the inner flange just clears the case. I did this for a couple reasons, first for alignment using a 30mm belt, second to minimize the loading on the countershaft bearings.

To clear the clutch pushrod the front sprocket flanges were cut down. I also had to remove some material from the case for clearance, I think on the webbing where the rear cover screw threads in. No big deal, just thought you should know.
 

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