Wiring Diagram Critique needed

MFJustin

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So I am on the verge of wiring up my new build and have been reading lots and lots of excellent wiring diagrams posted on this site. I'm running kick only, Sparx Capacitor with a PMA and Pamco ignition so I took the best, least complicated diagram I could find and kind of modified it to my needs.

Wanted to see if someone could look it over for me and check to make sure everything looks good. I did have a few questions that I wanted to get an opinion on also, I feel like they are simple questions but this is a first for me so I just want to cover all of my bases. That being said I REALLY appreciate all of the help I've gotten from this site during this build. This is pretty much the last huge piece of the puzzle before I can get it all together and tuned.

simplifiedWiring_fuseblock.jpg


1.) For the headlight I am not running any handlebar controls, this is as stripped down of a build as I can make it. For that reason I am not running a high beam/low beam switch either. Just planned to wire up only the low beam for power. That being said, I wanted to put a cheap and easy rocker switch between the light and the fuse box so I can turn it on and off. From what I've gathered since I'm running kick only with a capacitor its a better idea to have the light off on start up correct? This should be a simple enough addition then.

2.) I'm not running a rear brake so no need for a rear brake light switch. Planned on just using the switch from the the handlebar lever. This should also be an easy thing to do depending on how the wiring coming out of my taillight looks since I still need to check on that.

3.) The biggest headache I've encountered is pictured below. I planned to use the key ignition from a previous XS I had purchased already completed. The ignition has 4 posts, one for the starter, one for battery, one for ignition and one for accessories. I figured it was simple enough to wire it up for the new diagram. The power wire off of the capacitor would go to the battery post and then a wire would come off of the ignition post and go to the fusebox. Maybe this ignition switch is just too much and I need to get a simplified one with less options? lol

The only reason I am questioning if that is the correct method is because when I took the wires off from the ignition switch and how it was wired previously, I took note of where the specific wires went. You would turn the key to the right and the lights and everything else would come on, from here you could kick start it or continue to turn it to the right like you would a car ignition and it would engage the electric starter. Ignition post went to the fusebox, Battery post went to the battery, starter post went to the starter.....but the kicker was that the reg/rec was wired up with one wire (red wire pictured) going to the accessories post and then another wire (red/white striped wire pictured) going to the post where the battery connected to. It kind of threw me for a loop because this is my first time wiring up a bike completely and however the PO did it didn't really make sense compared to the other wiring diagrams I've read here.

key.jpg


((This is how it was previously wired up before on a 79 I bought with points ignition/starter/and stock charging system))
key2.jpg
 
MFJustin,

Your description for how you would wire the ign switch in #3 sounds just fine to me. Don't know why you want to confuse yourself looking at how it was previously wired in a different system than yours. Forgetaboutit.
 
It's not that I wanted to wire it the same, it's just I noticed wires from the reg/rec wired up to multiple posts on the ignition switch whereas with the new setup the wires would go straight to the cap and then one would go back to the ignition switch. You're right I'm unnecessarily confusing myself, I just wanted to make sure I was going about this the right away. Thanks for the response!

Oh another quick one, on Hughs instructions for the PMA installation it said the ground wire from the reg/rec can go straight to ground on the cap, do I need to split that wire an run an addition ground wire from the cap to the frame?
 
It's not that I wanted to wire it the same, it's just I noticed wires from the reg/rec wired up to multiple posts on the ignition switch whereas with the new setup the wires would go straight to the cap and then one would go back to the ignition switch. You're right I'm unnecessarily confusing myself, I just wanted to make sure I was going about this the right away. Thanks for the response!

Oh another quick one, on Hughs instructions for the PMA installation it said the ground wire from the reg/rec can go straight to ground on the cap, do I need to split that wire an run an addition ground wire from the cap to the frame?

I'm sure that Hugh meant for the ground from the reg / rect to go to frame ground as well. Ground is ground. Everything in the electrical system that needs a ground has to have a connection to the frame. So, I think that your are overthinking again. If something has to be grounded, what thoughts come into your mind?
 
It would be very easy to put in a high/low beam switch with your diagram:

simplifiedWiring_fuseblock.jpg


To do it, put in a three-way switch between the on/off and the headlight bulb: on/off goes to the "feed" side of the switch, and then one wire goes to low beam, one wire goes to high beam from the two outputs. They are easily available for low loads like a headlight, rocker switch, rotary switch toggle switch etc. There should be three terminals on the back (or six if it is a double pole switch, but you only need three)

switch3.jpg
 
I actually did exactly that, picked up a three prong double pole and everything should be good to go. I have it all wired up, just a few small things here and there and I can try to fire it up for the First time.
 
If you get the right switch it has a center off. This way center the light is off. flip it one way is low beam flip it the other is high beam.
Leo
 
If you get the right switch it has a center off. This way center the light is off. flip it one way is low beam flip it the other is high beam.
Leo

Yes sir exactly what I used. Bike actually fired up last night so looks like I wired it correctly. It's running poorly however but the rest of the excellent info on this site can hopefully work me through that.
 
I'm sure that Hugh meant for the ground from the reg / rect to go to frame ground as well. Ground is ground. Everything in the electrical system that needs a ground has to have a connection to the frame. So, I think that your are overthinking again. If something has to be grounded, what thoughts come into your mind?

Great common sense lesson for me too..
After wiringup two bikes, the PMA has opened me to a world of electrical trouble shooting that I had not previously had experience in.. Up until the XS650.. I knew what a ground was. :laugh:
 
Can someone explain why you need the 20 amp fuse between the cap and the fuse block?:shrug:
sorry if I'm jacking your thread.

The fuse serves a greater purpose in a battery setup because there is power available at all times so the fuse is a convenient disconnect when working on the electrical system and without a fuse, any short in the wiring from the battery to the ignition switch would be catastrophic without the fuse. The fuse may not be necessary in a capacitor setup because there is no power available unless the engine is running, and if a short occurred it would cut off the ignition and stop the engine and the source of power. However, that process could take some time and a lot of damage could occur, including a fire, so having the fuse is just good practice.
 
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