WIRING PUZZLE and blowing FUSE on LIGHTS CIRCUIT

[ANLAF]

Fellers

This is my wiring diagram. I have blown three 10amp fuses to the light circuit - that's the one on the extreme left of the four 10amp fuses in the fuse box. You will see that line takes power to the headlamp switches and lamp itself, and then completing the loop at the tail light. No other fuses have blown.

I've had everything out looking for breaks in wires and checking with the multimeter, but couldm't find a darned thing. Strange, each time I replace the broken fuse with a new one everything works perfectly. Still working perfectly when I start the engine, but by 30 yards down the road the fuse pops again - I didn't touch anything. The only thing that changed was that I revved the engine.

By the way, when the fuse pops the headlight and taillight stop working, but the rear brake light still works.

Any ideas?

ANLAF

 

[CDNTX650]

Whats your bike charging at.?

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[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hey, ANLAF! Motion/vibration induced intermittant shorting to ground? Might check the connections and soldering jobs of the wiring at the handlebar switch(s), and the lamp plug sockets (headlight and taillight).

Your diagram shows the brakelight on a different fuse...

 

[retiredgentleman]

Try using a different head light bulb/sealed beam. It may be intermittantly shorting out.

 

[ANLAF]

Thanks fellers I'm on to it going over it again. Charging system fine (I'll check agian with multimeter), check the circuit again , resolder the switch connections, and I'll get the bulb out, and give all around there a good cleaning (replace as soon as can get another).

ANLAF

 

[barelycompetent]

Just curious as your diagram doesnt show it, but are you still running the safety/lighting relay? If so where did you mount it? I ran into a similar problem when I mounted my relay on a metal plate at the back of the bike. I didnt realize that the contacts on the back side of the relay were making contact with said metal plate, so everytime I turned the bike on the headlight fuse blew. Same thing as yours, the light and tail light went out, but the brake light still worked. Once I realized the relay was shorting out on the plate, I shimmed it up so the contacts on the back of it werent touching the metal plate and I have been good to go ever since. If you have deleted the safety/lighting relay or never had one to begin with then disregard my entire statement lol. Hope you get it figured out, frustrating to say the least!

 

[ANLAF]

No safety relay, barelycompetent, but it has to be something shorting, but only when the engine is running.

Spent a few hours today taking stuff apart - okay, there is not much to take apart, but I dismantled the headlight. Found corrosion at the old type headlight bulb insert and bayonet clip cap (the one with with springs under the two wires to the bulb). Clened that up and retensioned those two springs so the cap was firm. Then I resoldered those two wires to the bulb-contact ends. Then I dismantled the switch, which is integral with the headlamp, cleaned, tightened, taped wires that might be the culprit. Then I got to the dimmer/horn switch on the handlebars and did the same thorough job and to the horn, as well (although not on the problem loop.)

Put in new fuse - all working perfectly.

Started up the bike - still lights were working.

Set off to get some fuel - lights went out again.

Aaaargh! deep breath. Start the process again. Ah! well, I am going on a ride with friends tomorrow to Devil's Bridge - daytime, so I can get away with no lights, although I do like to run with them on.

I am baffled - for the time being, at least.

ANLAF

 

[79xs850]

Are you using a cap or battery? Also, what happens if you rev/drive it with the headlight disconnected? same issue?

 

[FrkyMnky]

Why do you have the taillight power running through the dim switch? Also, is there any particular reason you put the brake switch on a different circuit than that of the lights? You should wire up the taillight to be powered off the on/off switch and have power from that going to the brake switch and to the taillight.

To trace this, I would hook up your ohm meter while the bike is running with it on amps. Then rev the bike to figure out where the draw is coming from. Your going to need a hand full of fuses or a jumper.

 

[XSLeo]

If you are still using the stock tail light they often develop a short inside the housing. Shorts to ground. Un hook the tail light power wire then try it. If it don't blow the fuse fix the tail light.
Leo

 

[ANLAF]

79XS850, using battery at the moment. When the light fuse blows the bike still runs. Welcome to the foum, by the way.

ANLAF

 

[ANLAF]

FrkMnKy, the wiring diagram is a combination of quite a few on the forum for cut-down custom versions. I am still the novice on electrical circuits. would you be able to sketch your suggested alternative circuits, by any chance.

I have my multimeter and a bag-full of fuses ready.

ANLAF

 

[ANLAF]

XSLeo. not a stock tail ight, but BINGO! I found the culprit - the tiniest section of bare wire hiding in the false oil box.

Fellers, thanks for the help. That false oil box is a real pin to access with the exhaust pipes on one side, the chain on the other, and the way in a section held by two 10mm bolts underneath. I'm going in there again today, determined to eliminate potential bent/broken/stripped wires. Stuff gets caught up in there and damaged don't ask me how - no matter how neat you put the wires behind your computer or TV, next time you look it's a tangle.

Well, back on the road.

ANLAF