EvenmoreXS
1981 XS650
Back line:
Last week, tuesday i think, bike wouldnt start in the am. Noticed the light was dim. Bike has been running pretty damn good. Always room for improvement, but it is my daily rider, and getting better. I chalked it up to a fluke, maybe I left my headlamp on longer than I thought. 8 volts. Charged it. Starts on the first kick and runs for 8 days or so with no issues. Yesterday she started having trouble keeping a good idle. Checked the voltage this morning, 10.4v. Charged to 12.4, Start on the first kick. First thing i check was the headlight. It DOES NOT get brighter when reving. It used too. Checked that regularly on car bumpers in front of me or my garage door, you know, just keeping an eye on it.
Im going to be checking my charging system over the next...........variable time frame........but my question first is this:
"On the solid state regulator models all you need to do is locate the green wire at the regulator plug and make a jump from it to ground. That bypasses the regulator and allows full battery current to flow through the brushes out of the rotor through the green wire to ground. That causes the rotor to make a stronger magnetic field which in turn causes more current to flow in the stator. If your battery terminal charge voltage jumps up to 14.5VDC when you rev the engine then the regulator or the ground connection for the regulator is your problem."
Do I need to remove the green wire from the plug and run a jumper to the frame and leave the others plugged in , or do I leave the green wire plugged in and run a jumper from the green wire to the frame.
So,in short, to remove the green from the plug and ground it or leave it and run a jumper from the green wires pin to the frame?
I will also be testing the OHMs on the rotor later.
Slap test was good. Brushes look good and have what appear to be original yama markings for wear. Could be wrong about the markings. One is a little longer than the other, typical, but they look of good working condition. May order some extras just to have.
Also, I am at work and just realized this was an issue today and havent had a chance to hit the battery with a volt meter yet to see whats being sent back to the battery when revving. I will update with more details if necessary, but I will try to use the guide and do as much as possible with whats already available, I really just wanted to confirm the question regarding the green wire testing the reg/rec.
Thanks, you guys are awesome.
Hugh, hang one of the PMA's out to dry for me, I may need one.
Last week, tuesday i think, bike wouldnt start in the am. Noticed the light was dim. Bike has been running pretty damn good. Always room for improvement, but it is my daily rider, and getting better. I chalked it up to a fluke, maybe I left my headlamp on longer than I thought. 8 volts. Charged it. Starts on the first kick and runs for 8 days or so with no issues. Yesterday she started having trouble keeping a good idle. Checked the voltage this morning, 10.4v. Charged to 12.4, Start on the first kick. First thing i check was the headlight. It DOES NOT get brighter when reving. It used too. Checked that regularly on car bumpers in front of me or my garage door, you know, just keeping an eye on it.
Im going to be checking my charging system over the next...........variable time frame........but my question first is this:
"On the solid state regulator models all you need to do is locate the green wire at the regulator plug and make a jump from it to ground. That bypasses the regulator and allows full battery current to flow through the brushes out of the rotor through the green wire to ground. That causes the rotor to make a stronger magnetic field which in turn causes more current to flow in the stator. If your battery terminal charge voltage jumps up to 14.5VDC when you rev the engine then the regulator or the ground connection for the regulator is your problem."
Do I need to remove the green wire from the plug and run a jumper to the frame and leave the others plugged in , or do I leave the green wire plugged in and run a jumper from the green wire to the frame.
So,in short, to remove the green from the plug and ground it or leave it and run a jumper from the green wires pin to the frame?
I will also be testing the OHMs on the rotor later.
Slap test was good. Brushes look good and have what appear to be original yama markings for wear. Could be wrong about the markings. One is a little longer than the other, typical, but they look of good working condition. May order some extras just to have.
Also, I am at work and just realized this was an issue today and havent had a chance to hit the battery with a volt meter yet to see whats being sent back to the battery when revving. I will update with more details if necessary, but I will try to use the guide and do as much as possible with whats already available, I really just wanted to confirm the question regarding the green wire testing the reg/rec.
Thanks, you guys are awesome.
Hugh, hang one of the PMA's out to dry for me, I may need one.