1976 Tracker Build

Signal said:
The front mudguard is a good idea, and I think you paint job looks fantastic despite the obvious green connotations.

Re Starter gear removal, the electric start reduction and transfer gears are removed in the first picture. In the second picture the most obvious feature is that the kick start mechanism is removed.

That’s ok, but you will have to bump it or use rollers to start, which is a total pain and in my opinion not worth the weight reduction benefit.

On my tracker I removed the electric start, if I was doing it again I would retain the electric start and remove the kick mechanism. (I am not 18 anymore)

Lithium batteries are small, light and sealed and have changed the game for me.
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Thank you. In terms of the green "connotations" not sure what you mean? I am putting the kick start into it---just wasn't sure if I wanted to put the electric start in it. My plan was to leave it out and having second thoughts. Even with the engine cases together, can I put the electric start back on or do I have to split it? I am guessing I would have to split but could be wrong.
 
Was a good night--was able to get the engine in the frame--she is locked and loaded! It helps that my 16 year old was able to at least direct the bolts in so all I had to do was get the engine in. The last time I did this I had the engine all together and it was a lot more of a pain in the butt---this time there was a lot of clearance with everything not on it.
 

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Over the years green has been associated with Kawasaki's,and years ago I often heard a race bike should not be green. Just 2 possibilities signal may be referring to.
 
So, as I said at the beginning of this thread that I picked this bike up in pieces, I assumed that the parts all corresponded to the correct year---guess I found out differently--seems that the front brake disc rotor was not a 76 model and thus 5mm offset less. Oh well, nothing a little bit of washers or a spacer can't fix. Again, thanks to 5Twins for the info on this.
 

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If you find one of the older, proper discs, it will bolt right on your wheel. The offset on the two disc styles changed but the mounting bolt pattern did not.
 
Ok, dusting this thread off and back at it. Has anyone used Hugh's top motor mount? I need the space as the tunnel is hitting those top two bolts when at rest--not liking that since it is fiberglass.
 
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Oh and another question--I ordered brake lines for the front and back--the front is good but I overestimated on the back--anybody know of someone who can cut it and install the end back on?
 
Thanks..They look good and I have a small independent bike shop here that has a really expensive tire machine so I'll just let him deal with any mounting issues.
 
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Ok, finally after getting all the advice I needed for wiring, coils, carbs, etc. from everyone on this great forum---I was able to get some wiring done in the last couple of weekends. I believe I have it all done---I just haven't checked it yet with a battery but will do so when I get the chance--who knew it would take so long to completely wire a bike?
 

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Looking good jsmith...won't be long now and you'll be ridin' it.
 

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