1976 XS650 restoration and rebuild, advice and help welcomed!

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Your pics look correct, except for the drum stopper bolts. Lock tangs should be bent up against a bolt flat.
The plug discussed in the other thread is in the case, just above and ahead of the sprocket, viewable from the outside.
It's there to allow oil to enter the guidebar...

 

[GeorgeOC]

Roger that, I should have noted this was a prelim test fit thus the tangs are not fixed yet. Thanks TM!

 

[GeorgeOC]

Continuing on, I suppose my goal here will be to help illustrate a step by step "how to" for putting an engine back together. So far, the first step was putting the shift forks, guide shaft back in. The good news, is that the forks move through the gears nicely *with the drive gear moving. If I might for the gang here, a few questions.

1. Does the circlip in the red circled positiion appear to be oriented correctly? (half of the clip situated in each case half?)
2. After the transmission is in, what ought to be the next big step? Crankshaft?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

1- That's the way I've preferred to do bearing retention rings, spanning case halves.

2- Double-check the shiftdrum starwheel assembly. Correct pins in correct locations, stoppers and spring in good shape and installed correctly.

Before you forget it, the disc-shaped oil gallery plug near the clutch pushrod seal.

Noticed that you have some single-notch gears, and some no-notch gears. One of the trans revisions. Might want to ensure that you have the correct gear and shaft combos.

Go thru the service bulletins, checking those covering trans stuff, like GearBoxSpacing and ChangesToGearSplines.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-xs1-xs1b-xs2-tx650-tech-bulletins-service-data-brochures.31022/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-1974-1979-xs650-technical-bulletins.36766/

 

[nhsteve]

[QUOTE ] Perhaps carry a little sun-bonnet to cover the gauges when the bike is parked outside?[/QUOTE]

Some hotel/motels give you a shower cap as part of their "courtesy package" in their bathrooms.
I have found that these fit over a guage set like these nicely, store easily under the seat, and also provide some wet weather protection as well.

For what it's worth!

 

[GeorgeOC]

1- That's the way I've preferred to do bearing retention rings, spanning case halves.

2- Double-check the shiftdrum starwheel assembly. Correct pins in correct locations, stoppers and spring in good shape and installed correctly.

Before you forget it, the disc-shaped oil gallery plug near the clutch pushrod seal.

Noticed that you have some single-notch gears, and some no-notch gears. One of the trans revisions. Might want to ensure that you have the correct gear and shaft combos.

Go thru the service bulletins, checking those covering trans stuff, like GearBoxSpacing and ChangesToGearSplines.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-xs1-xs1b-xs2-tx650-tech-bulletins-service-data-brochures.31022/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-1974-1979-xs650-technical-bulletins.36766/

TwoMany, thank you. The consolidated service bulletin resource is terrific. I am hip to replacing the oil plug you mentioned. I am having a tough time finding a the Yamaha part number to search out a replacement from the exploded views on biker.net.

- I also may have found a good set of notched gears for replacing the "non" version.
- Found this link as well for buttoning up the cases, for anyone else following here:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/closing-the-crankcase-check-list-torque-sequence.29329/

 

[weekendrider]

I am having a tough time finding a the Yamaha part number to search out a replacement from the exploded views on biker.net.

11. 256-15395-00-00 GASKET, OIL SEALING Not Available
E-Bay link.
I think at least one, if not some members, have just cut their own from gasket material

 

[GeorgeOC]

11. 256-15395-00-00 GASKET, OIL SEALING Not Available
E-Bay link.
I think at least one, if not some members, have just cut their own from gasket material

Thanks a ton weekendrider. Bought it right away... Seeing as the seller is based in my hometown! Too funny.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

- I also may have found a good set of notched gears for replacing the "non" version...

Careful, double-check the ChangesToGearSplines bulletin. The change affects the splined sliding gears, and they received either one notch, or two notches, depending on trans variation. The freewheeling spindle gears don't have splines to engage the shafts, so weren't affected by the spline change, but may have been affected by undocumented shaft diameter changes. It's a mess, I know. Just be clear about the change and markings evolution noted in the bulletin's second page...

 

[GeorgeOC]

So, here is the next quandary... This 76' has the 2 piece clutch pushrod. I have read a lot about the XS650 clutch pitfalls from the tech sections here, and otherwise. Seems there are some good remedies worth trying. Replacing the bushing, seals, dimpling the end etc. There also seems to be a school of thought that the older longer pushrods will make for a happier clutch engagement, easier finding of neutral.

Curious, would any of the experts here lean in a certain direction? Right now, my motor is an open canvas ha! Would the better call be to replace the 2 piece original rod with a longer one? Thanks in advance if anyone has experience to share on this one!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... lean in a certain direction?

Myself, I lean very heavily toward my 1-piece 7075AL pushrod. So much so that, if it wasn't for that tree over there, I'd fall over.

But, that's only because I love to tinker and experiment, and got totally immersed in the subject.

Many others don't seem to have a problem with their clutch setups. After all, the stock setup was produced for many years, with just that one change from 1-piece to 2-piece...

 

[GeorgeOC]

Myself, I lean very heavily toward my 1-piece 7075AL pushrod. So much so that, if it wasn't for that tree over there, I'd fall over.

But, that's only because I love to tinker and experiment, and got totally immersed in the subject.

Many others don't seem to have a problem with their clutch setups. After all, the stock setup was produced for many years, with just that one change from 1-piece to 2-piece...

Thank you TM. I may be leaning in that direction too. (pun!) From what I have read, the earlier 1-piece rods will swap into the later motors. Do you know that to be true by chance? My only reservation here is wanting to find a high quality replacement. NOS vs. a cheaper material aftermarket option for example.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Cheap? That's my battle cry.

The total length of the pushrod variations is the same, 243mm, so any version will fit.
The one gotcha was the MikesXS actuator kit. It's entry hole was a bit too small to for the necked-down part of the pushrod.

I wrote the pushrod thread so that anybody could make their own. A piece of 5/16" material should be quite cheap and available in your part of the country. The real catch is to be sure that it's straight...

 

[GeorgeOC]

Bottom end is just about ready to be sealed up. I have been following these two links as a guide. So far so good.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/closing-the-crankcase-check-list-torque-sequence.29329/
http://www.bikermetric.com/techtips/ (Dec 16th, 2011 entry)

A question about the cam chain... In the closing the case checklist, "#3 Check cam chain seated on crankshaft sprocket and tails hanging equal length when crank is at TDC."

If I have a new Tsubaki 'Peanut' Endless cam chain, and i'm able to lift the crankshaft assembly out, could I install the cam chain without splitting it, by putting the crankshaft assembly through it before I fit them in the case half?

 

[GeorgeOC]

Forward progress. Sumo plate installed. New filter, Fuji spec from Mike as 650Central. I've swapped in new stainless M6 hardware, with a washer. I used a little Lucas Oil heavy duty grease to treat the gasket on each side. Torqued down to 7 ft/lb.

 

[GeorgeOC]

Starter gear train cover has been installed after fitting a new starter seal. I used the starter as a guide to push the seal into place, with a little 3Bond 1104.
Here is a picture of the cover plate for the starter reduction gears. Should the excess material be trimmed off?

 

[GeorgeOC]

Finally! Over the hump here. Closed the cases! Decided to break the cam chain in the end... Grinding the slipper blade guide to be split looked a little intrusive. So I'll rivet the new master link when its time. Feeling good about the case seal, used Threebond along the mating surfaces, made sure they were pristine, and along the rubber seal points. I hope they don'[ t leak! Time will tell, fingers crossed!

 

[weekendrider]

Fingers crossed.

 

[GeorgeOC]

So, getting remaining lower case parts put back in their proper places... but not so fast, had a close look at the starter reduction gears (I think). I guess I will be looking for one of these little devils!

 

[GeorgeOC]

Jumping ahead here while I wait for a few small bits to finish the clutch install. I am going to move toward installing the pistons and lowering the cylinder jugs into place. Im working with a 1st oversize bore, and matching piston kit, TKRJ .25. I attempted to measure the ring gap (1st time doing that!) Here are my specs.

Right cylinder: Top: .013/.33mm Mid: .016/.4mm Oil Rings: .020/.5mm
Left cylinder: Top: .015/.38mm Mid: .016/.4mm Oil Rings: .020/.5mm

According to the Clymer specs, the Top and 2nd ring max gap is .8mm.

I think I am in range right? Would love an expert opinion!