Here's an excerpt from the 1978 manual.
You're in spec, barely...
You're in spec, barely...
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1976 XS650 restoration and rebuild, advice and help welcomed!
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Thanks TM, sounds like the 78' specs apply to the 76, here then? I wonder why there difference in the ring gap from model years?
Regardless, would it be best to gap a new set of rings here?
Regardless, would it be best to gap a new set of rings here?
Hey - cool! I`ve got one of those snazzy red XS650Cs too!
Mine was pretty rough when I got it. It was filthy, it didn`t run and the PO had butchered the electrical system. However, I now have it pretty well sorted out and I have put around 1600 miles on it this summer. My major issues were:
Anyhow, the bike is reliable, safe and great to ride. It makes the perfect mate to my 2007 Honda ST1300 long distance rocketship and it handles well and true and so its onward and upward. I have attached a before and after shot of the 650. Next step - make it pretty.
I`ll be watching your thread to see how you are progressing with your rebuild.
Pete
Mine was pretty rough when I got it. It was filthy, it didn`t run and the PO had butchered the electrical system. However, I now have it pretty well sorted out and I have put around 1600 miles on it this summer. My major issues were:
- clutch seized - cured by an oil change, a new clutch cable and lots of``Fred Flintstone` style walking around in the garage to loosen it up;
- fuel system totally messed up - cured with carb re-builds and POR15 treatment for the gas tank (worked perfectly - now clean as a whistle);
- turn signal circuit TOTALLY messed up - cured with a new wiring harness and new handlebar switches from Mike`sXS (had to adapt `77 switch on LH side but the turn signals work perfectly now);
- starting unreliable - cured by taking the cover off the Starter Safety Relay and cleaning the unit with electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush;
Anyhow, the bike is reliable, safe and great to ride. It makes the perfect mate to my 2007 Honda ST1300 long distance rocketship and it handles well and true and so its onward and upward. I have attached a before and after shot of the 650. Next step - make it pretty.
I`ll be watching your thread to see how you are progressing with your rebuild.
Pete
Attachments
Here's an excerpt from the 1975 manual.
Totally agree with 2M.
It is false economy to put old rings back into an engine (same as removing a clutch and then putting it back in). No matter how good they look (clutches, rings, seals, gaskets,...whatever) - just as sure as God made little apple-strudles, the old part(s) will fail 15 minutes AFTER you have reassembled the engine.
If you have gone to all the work of tearing down an engine - put in new stuff, so that when you start it up - you know that you won`t have to tear it down again.
Pete
It is false economy to put old rings back into an engine (same as removing a clutch and then putting it back in). No matter how good they look (clutches, rings, seals, gaskets,...whatever) - just as sure as God made little apple-strudles, the old part(s) will fail 15 minutes AFTER you have reassembled the engine.
If you have gone to all the work of tearing down an engine - put in new stuff, so that when you start it up - you know that you won`t have to tear it down again.
Pete
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Sorry, I wasn't super clear. I am using the new rings that came with the new pistons, brand spanking new.
The specs from the 75' manual are the same as what my Clymer book states... They give me a little more comfort, they make it seem that I am still within the standard gap window.
My question about 'gapping' a new set of rings was meant to ask whether I needed to look into a new set of rings with tighter gap readings, to replace the current new ones. I think I might be ok though....
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GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
For the record, I totally agree!
I find it interesting that a new set of rings would gap at the far end of the scale. Makes me wonder if the bores are a bit oversized. Then again, could just be the way the cookie crumbles.
Those gaps are fine for a streetbike. Some of us would want to try a set of the next size up, and gap to minimums. But, that's being obsessive. Don't go there...
Those gaps are fine for a streetbike. Some of us would want to try a set of the next size up, and gap to minimums. But, that's being obsessive. Don't go there...
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
I appreciate the review of my measurements, thank you, and to Pete. Thanks for keeping me on the ledge!
No problem my friend - keep on keepin' on!
Pete
Pete
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
A quick clutch plate question! Steel plate wise, one side of the plates are scored, one side is smoother... There is mention of the scuffed surface in the Clutch Tech section
here: http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch.143/
#7 post, mentions surfaces. The post sort of has me thinking both sides of the steel plates need to be etched. Is that correct?
If not, which side faces out?
Forgive this rookie! Thanks in advance folks!
here: http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch.143/
#7 post, mentions surfaces. The post sort of has me thinking both sides of the steel plates need to be etched. Is that correct?
If not, which side faces out?
Forgive this rookie! Thanks in advance folks!
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I've never worked a 650 clutch.....at least not the plates.
There are a lot of videos on the web though....
There are a lot of videos on the web though....
I wouldn't want a surface that would cut into the fibre frictions. I'd probably lap those, on a flat plate, with #400 wet-or-dry.
Then, an easy way to remove the sharp edges of the tabs is with a wire wheel.
Just barely introduce the tabs to the wheel, slowly turning the plate to get them all.
Then flip the plate over to get the other sharp edges.
The steel in these plates seems rather soft, so go gently, just enuff to remove the sharpness. Some debates on the plate orientation, I would recommend placing them with the (previously sharp) edges inboard, with the rounded edges outboard, which may ease plate separation during clutch disengagement...
Then, an easy way to remove the sharp edges of the tabs is with a wire wheel.
Just barely introduce the tabs to the wheel, slowly turning the plate to get them all.
Then flip the plate over to get the other sharp edges.
The steel in these plates seems rather soft, so go gently, just enuff to remove the sharpness. Some debates on the plate orientation, I would recommend placing them with the (previously sharp) edges inboard, with the rounded edges outboard, which may ease plate separation during clutch disengagement...
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
TwoMany, OUTSTANDING advice. Thank you. Sounds like both sides of the steel plates need be treated, rather than one side smooth, one side 'lapped.' Correct? Thanks again! My fiber plates are soaking as we speak, looking forward to installing the remainder of the clutch.
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Lakeview,
That looks lie a not too bad Canadian ,76C to me.
Maybe by now looks a little more peachy
G'day Gibson,
I read somewhere that we should use Diesel engine oil in the XS650.
Any comments??
Synthetic not too low a viscosity??
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Next step will be fitting the rings, pistons, and lowering the cylinder jugs into place. In a unfortunate turn of events, one of the piston ring boxes from the TKRJ kit was missing the oil rings. Bad luck I guess. I'm going to use this as an excuse to fit fresh Yamaha brand 1st over rings: 447-11610-10-00. Found them on Boats.net
I'm slightly nervous about setting the jugs in place... important step with proper gasket prep and such required.
I've read both sides of the gasket sealer debate for the base gasket. I've decided to use Gascacinch with the new Versah gasket sourced from MM at 650Central.
My first question is, if I do that, will it be time sensitive from when I lower the jugs down, until when the valve cover and head are finally installed and torqued to spec? As always, thanks for your insights everyone!
I'm slightly nervous about setting the jugs in place... important step with proper gasket prep and such required.
I've read both sides of the gasket sealer debate for the base gasket. I've decided to use Gascacinch with the new Versah gasket sourced from MM at 650Central.
My first question is, if I do that, will it be time sensitive from when I lower the jugs down, until when the valve cover and head are finally installed and torqued to spec? As always, thanks for your insights everyone!
I recently acquired some N.O.S. base gaskets from eBay. They have some factory applied sealer on them but not on the entire gasket. The sealer is in front of and behind the cam chain tunnel. You can see it here as the dark areas on the gasket .....
I would at least add sealer to an aftermarket gasket in those two areas. If you choose to coat the whole thing, take care around the outer stud holes. Oil drains back down into the bottom of the engine from the topend through these. If you look at the case you will see little grooves or notches for the oil to run through. You don't want to inadvertently plug those up with sealer.
I would at least add sealer to an aftermarket gasket in those two areas. If you choose to coat the whole thing, take care around the outer stud holes. Oil drains back down into the bottom of the engine from the topend through these. If you look at the case you will see little grooves or notches for the oil to run through. You don't want to inadvertently plug those up with sealer.
