buzzword
XS650 Addict
do you happen to know the part number on that EBC clutch tool? looks very handy and more positive points of engagement than the Motion Pro pliers type clutch basket tool.
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1976 XS650 restoration and rebuild, advice and help welcomed!
do you happen to know the part number on that EBC clutch tool? looks very handy and more positive points of engagement than the Motion Pro pliers type clutch basket tool.
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
It was very handy, made the install a breeze. Found on eBay, item #121925343275 currently.
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Its been a while since I've had some quality time, but finally made a bit more headway. Sourced NOS 1st oversize piston ring set, really happy I went for those. The gap measurements are spot on I think. .010/.25mm for the top rings and .014/.35mm for the middle. New base gasket, pistons installed, cylinders lowered into place. New cam chain guide fitted. Also rebuilt the valve cover and re-installed the rockers. Waiting for the head to come back from a quick vapor blast. Anyways, good stuff!
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Looks great George!
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Wow - looks really nice George - you're getting there!
Pete
Pete
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Good pics of that new stator system, George. Notice that the number of stator windings (for the charging system) is 8, not evenly divisible by 3, and has 2 yellow wires going to the rectifier. That is not a 3-phase alternator, but a single-phase. Although it can work with a 3-phase rectifier (just use 2 of the 3 yellow wire inputs), it will use a single-phase 4-pin bridge rectifier. More opportunities for alternative/emergency rectifier selections...
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Thanks TwoMany. I read with great interest a few threads about PMA coils, as well as those specific to the HHB CDI Kit, etc, soldering joints, running hot, etc. I am definitely more informed than before no doubt. I will admit though, that I am feeling some great anxiety getting this thing wired up properly! There are some great threads on wiring diagrams, what the XS650 system is comprised of etc. This video from Revival Cycles also helped frame it up. (Remind me to buy something from those guys for their efforts!) Still not super confident though, doh!
What I am hoping to do is hopefully within reach. That is... To combine the HHB CDI PMA Kit with a Motogadget M-Unit console, run everything else like switches, signals, lights etc. Basically cleaning up stock electronics, but not adding anything that draws power or reliability from the system.
Any voluteers to spend a weekend on the beach and help me wire this puppy up? HA!
What I am hoping to do is hopefully within reach. That is... To combine the HHB CDI PMA Kit with a Motogadget M-Unit console, run everything else like switches, signals, lights etc. Basically cleaning up stock electronics, but not adding anything that draws power or reliability from the system.
Any voluteers to spend a weekend on the beach and help me wire this puppy up? HA!
...Any voluteers to spend a weekend on the beach and help me wire this puppy up? HA!
I'd be up for a "Weekend on the beach".
But, that's not a good place to wire a bike...
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Very nice George - onward and upward!
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
If anyone happens to still have their eyes on this... I've been considering my electrics future. Rookie question... I'm thinking that I'd prefer to keep the side covers, and OEM intake airbox system, vs pods. That being the case: is it crazy to consider using the stock battery box to house a modern smaller battery, rectifier, and possible remaining components?
All this in lieu of a fabricated battery/electrics tray and Pods. I think the look of the stock side covers would actually be kind of cool...
All this in lieu of a fabricated battery/electrics tray and Pods. I think the look of the stock side covers would actually be kind of cool...
Hi George: I simply replaced my old (dead) battery with a new one of the same rating and it fits fine. My old rubber battery box liner was a bit wrecked so I got a snazzy new one (absolutely identical to the old one) from XS650 Direct (Canadian version of Mikes XS) - for peanuts. I replaced the old regulator and rectifier with a combo unit and it has worked perfectly all summer (be sure to ground the chassis of the new unit very securely).
The new regulator-rectifier unit has a ground wire in its wiring harness (I guess some do not) - but the instructions suggested also grounding the chassis of the unit to the bike frame. To do that, I simply drilled a little hole in the aluminium heat sink body of the new unit (obviously in a non-functional spot on a cooling fin) - and used a self-tapping screw to fasten a ground wire which I connected to A screw on the bike frame. Strip the paint off that spot to make a better connection.
I have also bought a new alternator rotor and stator - and will be replacing the old brushed units this winter.
As for the air box etc - I ditched the old filters (they were in very nasty shape) and bought new ones that are identical to OEM filters - again from XS Direct - and then I simply sanded and re-painted all of the sheet metal parts. That way, I maintained the stock appearance and didn't have to mess around re-jetting the carbs.
After all of this, the bike starts and runs great.
The new regulator-rectifier unit has a ground wire in its wiring harness (I guess some do not) - but the instructions suggested also grounding the chassis of the unit to the bike frame. To do that, I simply drilled a little hole in the aluminium heat sink body of the new unit (obviously in a non-functional spot on a cooling fin) - and used a self-tapping screw to fasten a ground wire which I connected to A screw on the bike frame. Strip the paint off that spot to make a better connection.
I have also bought a new alternator rotor and stator - and will be replacing the old brushed units this winter.
As for the air box etc - I ditched the old filters (they were in very nasty shape) and bought new ones that are identical to OEM filters - again from XS Direct - and then I simply sanded and re-painted all of the sheet metal parts. That way, I maintained the stock appearance and didn't have to mess around re-jetting the carbs.
After all of this, the bike starts and runs great.
Keep the side covers, stock air box and stock battery box. They all work well. Whether the battery and other components will fit into the battery box, depends on how big the battery and other components are. Just remember the rec/reg unit for a PMA system needs a good heat sink so that unused watts can have an easy path to escape.
I guess you have been warned that those PMA products being sold by all the aftermarket shops are generally of poor quality/ light duty construction. They are definitely not of high quality such as made by Japanese companies.
Caveat emptor.
I guess you have been warned that those PMA products being sold by all the aftermarket shops are generally of poor quality/ light duty construction. They are definitely not of high quality such as made by Japanese companies.
Caveat emptor.
I don't think it's crazy...it fits like that with stock parts anyways, and is hidden so IF you're keeping the side covers, it doesn't make sense to make a new tray. Plus, isn't the frame already painted up? I suppose a removable tray (like the current battery box) could be made...but why? The only thing to work out is how to limit the new battery from bouncing around.
Indeed. I mounted my rec-reg unit on a little bracket I fabbed-up myself. It is simply a large hose clamp with a hole drilled in it. One end of the unit is fastened to the clamp with a nut and bolt into that hole. I ran the hose clamp around that triangular part of the frame under the air box - it is right behind the little hole where the side cover holding knob goes in. The other end of the unit (it is basically a rectangular aluminium block with some cooling fins) is lashed to the bike frame right under the carbs using a black nylon zip-tie. The mount is strong but flexible enough that the thing won't shake itself,to pieces and it gets lots of cooling air.
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Thanks everyone for your take on my electric/battery thoughts. I will be going with the stock tray, intakes. Now... Looks like one last trip to the powder coater for that battery box. While I am at it, nay last odds and ends. Thanks guys!
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
A question about cam chain installation. I've. Been reading and watching all I can about buttoning up the top end.
Does the cam chain split or master link need to be in a specific position? Here in this photo (thank you iamcarbon) his master link is above the timing mark. If you're one link to either side, still at TDC, would there be any issue?
Does the cam chain split or master link need to be in a specific position? Here in this photo (thank you iamcarbon) his master link is above the timing mark. If you're one link to either side, still at TDC, would there be any issue?
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No, the chain doesn't need to be in a certain exact spot when you connect it. Yes, the timing mark needs to be correct, that's all. Basically, you just position the chain ends somewhere on the top of the cam sprocket so you can get at them to rivet the link. If they're off a tooth or two either way from straight up or directly above the timing mark, that's fine, as long as the timing mark is correctly pointing straight up. In fact, once the chain ends are laid in the sprocket, if they're not exactly on top, you can rotate the crank/cam a little to make it so and ease the riveting operation.
