colebrooker
XS650E US import
Looks good, I bet you are pleased. How did you get it that clean or is it painted?
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79 xs650 Special - No Spark... But 12v. help?
- Thread starter dhx78
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical engine
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
I'm feelin pretty good about it...HOPEFULLY it will run.........first attempt at something like this (engine rebuild) Thanks for the positive comments colebrooker!
The lower half is cleaned with Zep Purple, then acetone and then painted with with VHT chemical resistant silver engine paint. The jugs are painted with a brush using Rust O Leum high temp satin black in a can. Then the edges of the fins were filed. They say the paint it's good to 1000 degrees.......we will see. It seems to stick pretty well to the aluminum. The head and rocker arm covers are just cleaned as above.
The lower half is cleaned with Zep Purple, then acetone and then painted with with VHT chemical resistant silver engine paint. The jugs are painted with a brush using Rust O Leum high temp satin black in a can. Then the edges of the fins were filed. They say the paint it's good to 1000 degrees.......we will see. It seems to stick pretty well to the aluminum. The head and rocker arm covers are just cleaned as above.
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I'm glad you figured this out. For those reading this that don't know.
When installing a cam you use both the notch in the boss on the left by the sprocket and the dimple on the right by the teeth. With the timing marks lined up on the stator/rotor. The notch goes straight up and the dimple goes flush with the sealing surface of the head.
As covered in the repair manuals.
Leo
When installing a cam you use both the notch in the boss on the left by the sprocket and the dimple on the right by the teeth. With the timing marks lined up on the stator/rotor. The notch goes straight up and the dimple goes flush with the sealing surface of the head.
As covered in the repair manuals.
Leo
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
ROGER THAT Leo!
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
A NEW PROBLEM.......
As told earlier...motor back together.....cam chain adjusted, valves adjusted point gap done.
Now time to do static timing ............using a light hooked up to the points looking to get the light to go at the "F" on the alternator housing. I have it set up so the light goes out just as the points open.
NOW THE PROBLEM.....even with the points plate rotated as far as it will go counter clockwise while trying to adjust the timing for the right cylinder, the light goes out at the TDC mark NOT at the "F"mark. If I rotate the points plate the other way (clockwise ) it gets worse. The points plate is at it's stopping point so I can not move it further. It is the same situation for the left cylinder adjustment. Note: the engine is not in the frame, no coils etc hooked up. I have the static light hooked up to a battery.
Any ideas??............any assistance will be appreciated.
As told earlier...motor back together.....cam chain adjusted, valves adjusted point gap done.
Now time to do static timing ............using a light hooked up to the points looking to get the light to go at the "F" on the alternator housing. I have it set up so the light goes out just as the points open.
NOW THE PROBLEM.....even with the points plate rotated as far as it will go counter clockwise while trying to adjust the timing for the right cylinder, the light goes out at the TDC mark NOT at the "F"mark. If I rotate the points plate the other way (clockwise ) it gets worse. The points plate is at it's stopping point so I can not move it further. It is the same situation for the left cylinder adjustment. Note: the engine is not in the frame, no coils etc hooked up. I have the static light hooked up to a battery.
Any ideas??............any assistance will be appreciated.
Well, that sounds backwards, maybe like trying to set the points on the trailing edge of the points cam for the wrong cylinder..?..?
Set the RIGHT cylinder at top of compression stroke, slightly return the crank to the 'F' mark, examine the relationship of the RIGHT points cam-follower and the points cam. The high lobe of the cam should be just below the right points cam-follower, ready to crack that point open as the cam rotates CCW.
If not, may need to review the points-cam/advance-rod/advancer/indexing-pins assembly procedure.
Set the RIGHT cylinder at top of compression stroke, slightly return the crank to the 'F' mark, examine the relationship of the RIGHT points cam-follower and the points cam. The high lobe of the cam should be just below the right points cam-follower, ready to crack that point open as the cam rotates CCW.
If not, may need to review the points-cam/advance-rod/advancer/indexing-pins assembly procedure.
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
Thanks for the reply TMXSB.........I think my "panic" MIGHT have been due to a misunderstanding of the procedure. I THINK I have it sorted out now.......I do appreciate your input, and should I need to I will check out the install procedure you suggested.
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
I have to say i'm a bit disappointed. I put the engine back into the frame hooked up the bare minimum of wires and gave it a shot. I used the same test bottle set up I had used when I first got the bike but it was a no go. All I got was some backfires. I did check for spark at the plugs and there was spark. I also pulled the plugs and looked to see if they were wet from gas BUT they did not seem to be, even tried a bit of starter fluid spray...just more back fires. I did not mess with the carbs since it ran ( all be it on ONE cylinder ) Except for that adjustment screw on the side. I'm not sure where a good starting point for that is. Oh, well, it was 32 degrees here today, maybe that was part of the problem..... 
Try swapping over the plug leads or the points wires, just in case you have the plugs firing on the wrong cylinders.
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
Thanks RG.........I'll give that a try!
With points you need the wire from the coil to the points hooked up right or you will have them firing 180 out. The upper set of points needs to be wired to the coil firing the right cylinder.
Lower to the left.
Backwards and all you get is backfires.
Leo
Lower to the left.
Backwards and all you get is backfires.
Leo
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
Right about that Leo, and Retired Gentleman YOU ARE A GENIUS!!! I am humbled by your knowledge!
I switched the plug wires and GUESS WHAT it fired up like a champ! One small problem, the right side is not firing although there is spark to the plug, so I guess it is either not getting fuel or the timing is off..........here is the proof that it runs thought all be it on one cylinder.
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Now the question is 1) why is the right side not firing...and 2) what did I do backwards and how do i correct it! Thanks in advance as always!
OH, and Mr Retired Gentleman...THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! 
I switched the plug wires and GUESS WHAT it fired up like a champ! One small problem, the right side is not firing although there is spark to the plug, so I guess it is either not getting fuel or the timing is off..........here is the proof that it runs thought all be it on one cylinder.
Now the question is 1) why is the right side not firing...and 2) what did I do backwards and how do i correct it! Thanks in advance as always!
OH, and Mr Retired Gentleman...THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
NONclow
Confirmed Laquer Breather
Does the right cyl kick in when revved? The right side not firing could be the throttle butterfly is closed too much, or out of sync, and/or possibly the pilot circuit, or at the very least an intake leak, a loose or cracked hose barb/cap or carb boot, or even a loose clamp. As for the swapped plug wires temporary fix, the advance rod/unit/cam could be 180 deg out. To test this, remove the advance weights and spin shaft half a turn and reinstall the weights... don't forget to change the wires back 
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
Thanks for your input NON....will look into that stuff tomorrow!.........
Right about that Leo, and Retired Gentleman YOU ARE A GENIUS!!! I am humbled by your knowledge!
I switched the plug wires and GUESS WHAT it fired up like a champ! One small problem, the right side is not firing although there is spark to the plug, so I guess it is either not getting fuel or the timing is off..........here is the proof that it runs thought all be it on one cylinder.
"]
[/URL]
Now the question is 1) why is the right side not firing...and 2) what did I do backwards and how do i correct it! Thanks in advance as always!
OH, and Mr Retired Gentleman...THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
The wires coming from the points have an orange and a grey wire. Orange to one coil and grey to the other coil.Reverse those 2 wires. Then return the plug wires back to there normal path.
Right side not running:
Could be the pilot circuit................is the pilot jet plugged, its a very small orifice? Is the mixture screw set correctly?
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
Me. Retired Gentleman, SIR..........I am once again indebted to you. You are TWO FOR TWO!!
Even though I labeled the wires when I took 'er apart, I must have messed something up...I switched the wires as per your suggestion and all is good.......plug wires can now be connected to their proper sides.
The not so good news...right side is still not getting "hot"
The symptoms.......
Compression on both sides is about 150.........good I think
Spray starting fluid on the right side ( the one that is not getting hot ) and the RPM increases.
Hold a rag gently over the tight side carb ( creating a "choke situation) on the air intake side and the RPM increases and I THINK the plug fires.
If I grab a lot of throttle ( with the engine warm ) she dies. Happens with either a fast or slow advance of throttle.
I am still encouraged, as I THINK these things are just "adjustments". Your input and advice appreciated as usual!
Even though I labeled the wires when I took 'er apart, I must have messed something up...I switched the wires as per your suggestion and all is good.......plug wires can now be connected to their proper sides.
The not so good news...right side is still not getting "hot"
The symptoms.......
Compression on both sides is about 150.........good I think
Spray starting fluid on the right side ( the one that is not getting hot ) and the RPM increases.
Hold a rag gently over the tight side carb ( creating a "choke situation) on the air intake side and the RPM increases and I THINK the plug fires.
If I grab a lot of throttle ( with the engine warm ) she dies. Happens with either a fast or slow advance of throttle.
I am still encouraged, as I THINK these things are just "adjustments". Your input and advice appreciated as usual!
Me. Retired Gentleman, SIR..........I am once again indebted to you. You are TWO FOR TWO!!
Even though I labeled the wires when I took 'er apart, I must have messed something up...I switched the wires as per your suggestion and all is good.......plug wires can now be connected to their proper sides.
The not so good news...right side is still not getting "hot"
The symptoms.......
Compression on both sides is about 150.........good I think
Spray starting fluid on the right side ( the one that is not getting hot ) and the RPM increases.
Hold a rag gently over the tight side carb ( creating a "choke situation) on the air intake side and the RPM increases and I THINK the plug fires.
If I grab a lot of throttle ( with the engine warm ) she dies. Happens with either a fast or slow advance of throttle.
I am still encouraged, as I THINK these things are just "adjustments". Your input and advice appreciated as usual!
I'm thinking its the pilot circuit; its not supplying any fuel/air mixture. Usual suspects are pilot jet plugged, internal pilot passageways plugged, mixture screw not set correctly. Try blowing carb cleaner followed by compressed air through from the mixture screw and from the pilot jet. Should be able to feel air blowing out from the small holes in the carb throat, near the butterfly.
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Pabeye
Older than Dirt
Thanks as always RG...gonna take a day or two, but I will follow up on your suggestions.
Along with RG's suggestions I might recommend you read the carb guide. www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf read it, print it out, read it.
Now read it as you tear down the carbs to clean, inspect, replace any bad parts, adjust and reassemble the carbs.
Leo
Now read it as you tear down the carbs to clean, inspect, replace any bad parts, adjust and reassemble the carbs.
Leo
Pabeye
Older than Dirt
Thanks Leo, will do...and than you RG. I think you are three for three...........I shot carb cleaner into the pilot hole and the compressed air. Some yellow gunk came out of the hole in the carb throat. I fired it up using the choke and I sure do think she was firing on both cylinders as the right piipe got as warm as the left.
After warming it up a bit I tried advancing the throttle and she died. After restart I put the choke on again and both sides were firing. I know this because I pulled the plug wires off as she was running and she continued to run with one plug off on either side.
All this I THINK is good news as I THINK the problems right now are carb related. I have taken them off the engine and will either try to clean them myself ( AFTER READING the carb guide )or I'll send them to my buddy in North Carolina who has an ultra sonic cleaner.
Any opinions on that process?
Thank you one and all for your continues patience, interest and advice.
After warming it up a bit I tried advancing the throttle and she died. After restart I put the choke on again and both sides were firing. I know this because I pulled the plug wires off as she was running and she continued to run with one plug off on either side.
All this I THINK is good news as I THINK the problems right now are carb related. I have taken them off the engine and will either try to clean them myself ( AFTER READING the carb guide )or I'll send them to my buddy in North Carolina who has an ultra sonic cleaner.
Any opinions on that process?
Thank you one and all for your continues patience, interest and advice.
