charging system dead

This is why pics can be so helpful.

Signs of some pretty serious scraping.

RotorScraping01.jpg
RotorScraping02.jpg
 
^Time to turn off the why am I not charging expressway onto the damn, I have to replace the crank secluded dirt road along the cemetery.
 
At this point, I'm leaning towards sending the old rotor to Alabama for Gary to fix.
I'll order the rotor pulling tool and accessories Pete mentioned.
Buy new brushes.
Wait for the rotor to come back and reinstall.

The scraping is nothing to worry about..... right? :(
 
The scraping is nothing to worry about..... right? :(

At this point put it in neutral and disconnect your ignition and turn the crank with the starter and see if you see any wobbling of the nut on the end of the crank where the rotor is. The cranks have been known to start separating -- they're made of several parts. I had to replace mine, but it was wobbling on the other end. The one in the video is wobbling on both ends. Cranks are plentiful and under a hundred bucks.

Ggggary's video:
 
^Easiest way might be to unplug the two little wires on the coil. You could also pull the wires off the plugs and jumper them to the frame.
 
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So, Bad rotor, misaligned stator, weak spring on brush. That Oregon reg/rec has a lifetime warranty. If the reg/rec is bad and will not be covered by the warranty........that is a Fiat regulator, covered on this forum, and the rectifier part of that reg/rec can be replaced by an ebay rectifier, also covered on this forum.

You still need to test the STATOR, covered on this forum.

Scott
 
He mentions not getting the pin aligned with the stator slot that will cause scraping (just like that).
That's probably it then. Maybe the little taste of it can always be worse will raise his spirits.
 
sorry for changing the subject briefly, but since I'm buying a bunch of tools/nuts from mikesxs, I wanted to get feedback on the calipher he sells. Mine is leaking on the right front calipher.
2nd question: been having problems with the tachometer for a while. Slow needle response to revving. I tried WD40 in the tach and blow air into it. I think it helped a little bit, but now the tachometer doesn't move at all. Completely dead. I've been told to simply buy a new tach cable. Any reviews/feedback on the mikes xs tach cable?
PM me if you prefer not to publicly speak bad about the products I'm inquiring about.
 
^wd-40 has it's uses, but it will eventually become gummy film. The tach movement is very delicate stuff inside and no doubt that could gum it up. If a tach or speedo (they're similar inside) quit working from natural causes, they will often free themselves up with use. Also, when you're lubing the cables and so on, it's best to avoid getting lube on the cable end and the place it fits into on the instrument.

It would be better, probably, if you rebuilt the old caliper. I used Mike's kit for that and it's been fantastic. Used master cyl. kit as well, also good. I don't know anything about a complete caliper he sells, though.
 
normally calipers rebuild pretty simple, maybe needing a piston if the rust pits are too bad to reuse it. Follow the thread on here about doing it, blow by blow. Do the master cylinder also it ALWAYS needs it. most times I get a good working brake system with no parts but the occasional piston. Read up on front brake upgrades before you buy partz. Do you have dual disks? SSlines are a good thing. The banggood.com brake lines are good even if they are stupid cheap. I have 3 bikes stopping with banggood lines now and a couple more in the works.
 
^That reminds me I also used Mike's caliper piston (if it wasn't included in the kit), and it's been good. I did all the brake stuff I mentioned about seven years ago.
 
I'll try the calipher rebuild. My bike is not dual disk, just one disk.
I upgraded my master cylinder last month to the Mikes Xs one. Looks much better.
SS brake lines look nice and I did install them on my xs1100 for safety, but they were expensive.
 
They're only like $6 from Banggood, like Gary said, stupid cheap. No excuse now for anyone to still be running originals. Replace the 2 originals with one long line and eliminate that junction block on the triple tree.

The brushes linked to by Pete are not originals, they are the aftermarket Emgo brand, probably the same thing Mike's sells. But, originals are readily available on eBay for about the same, or not much more, than the repros. Personally, I prefer originals. Worn out brushes are kinda common on these bikes but I kinda think many that are found that way are aftermarket replacements. I say this because my originals are still fine after 39 years and just over 30K miles, they're hardly worn at all. The new length spec is 14.5mm, wear limit 7mm. Last time I checked (a couple thousand miles ago), my inner was 14, outer around 12, still lots of life left. I have taken the precaution of acquiring a couple N.O.S. sets from eBay for future use, if need be.
 
5twins.......................I'm amazed:bow:
I knew OEM brushes would be good, but that shows that they are extremely long lived.
I have found that Mikesxs brushes are good for at least 17,000 kms or 10,500 miles.
Your experience indicates the OEM brushes could last for 100,000 miles, or 10 times the aftermarket repros:cool:
 
I might suggest it's another part that gets unusual wear due to excessive loads placed on the charging system, trying to charge a bad battery. While a well maintained bike that starts easily and has a good battery puts little load on those parts.
 
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