charging system dead

The part you broke and have now gotten a replacement for actually consists of 4 parts, #1 - 4 in the diagram below .....

wmr3Gdb.jpg


It should stay mounted in the cover. #3 is a small oil seal inside #1 to seal around the top of the tach drive shaft #7. #4 is a threaded sleeve insert that the cable will attach to. Note the slots in the top of it. That's so you can screw it down into the sleeve (#1) tight. Then it should stay there and not come out when you remove the cable.

I realize parts wear out and get broken but I have to admit, this is the first time I've seen someone break this one, lol.
 
That threaded section being pretty well stuck in the sleeve is common, the seals being shot is near universal. Part #7 being corroded and worn at the seal making even new new seals dicey Yeah that too.
 
I welded a tool to fit the slot in the threaded section to a 3/8" socket so I can use a hand impact wrench.
OP; odds are good some PO used a vice grips and tightened the crap out of the old cable trying to stop the leak.
 
I welded a tool to fit the slot in the threaded section to a 3/8" socket so I can use a hand impact wrench.
OP; odds are good some PO used a vice grips and tightened the crap out of the old cable trying to stop the leak.
:agree:
Yeah........................you can't cure stupid. Many lads don't even understand there is an oil seal in there!
 
....and PLEASE put the damned vise-grips away fer cryin' in a bucket!!!

You're not working on a Hogley Ferguson.

:mad:
 
No but I rebuilt the magneto on the farmall this week. No vice grips needed. With the impulse coupling it will make an easy half inch spark twisting the shaft with my fingers. Downside is that the points are buried pretty deep inside it.
 
I guess i have to wait until that piece i ordered comes back before closing up the crankcase.

I got rid of the rock hard cracking gasket and will RTV it when I close it up.

Question: why did a bunch of oil come out when I removed the right crankcase? I wasn't expecting that. Oil was very dark so an oil change is in order once the crankcase goes back on.
 

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You CANNOT do away with that gasket!!!!!! It must be replaced with a new gasket, the oil pump, tach drive, kick start shaft and seals, and some years the clutch won't disengage without the gasket being there. Go REAL easy on the RTV, juss sayin'
 
Silicone or bust, lol. There are very few places on a bike I consider silicone sealer acceptable to use on. Any covers or cases sealing internals are definitely not on that list. Any excess that squeezes out internally can break away and then you have little balls of rubber roaming around inside your motor. They can and do plug oil ports and passages. Please, don't use that stuff or we may need to start calling you Bob Kelly IV.
 
The electric start spring tension? Clutch has to come off to do that. That's a bit tricky, lots of pieces, order is critical. Watch the kick start reinstall there is a thin spacer and the spring is a bit tricky to get back right.
 
Regarding the need for a gasket - it sounds like you may be a bit mixed up:
  • the LEFT side engine case cover does NOT contain oil (but it still uses a gasket);
  • the RIGHT side engine case cover DOES contain oil and you MUST use a gasket on it.
 
Silicone or bust, lol. There are very few places on a bike I consider silicone sealer acceptable to use on. Any covers or cases sealing internals are definitely not on that list. Any excess that squeezes out internally can break away and then you have little balls of rubber roaming around inside your motor. They can and do plug oil ports and passages. Please, don't use that stuff or we may need to start calling you Bob Kelly IV.

Hay I heard that ! I don't use RTV on sideplates... I use Coppercoat on both sides of the gasket ! LOL
I don't need a reputation I don't deserve ! HAHAHAHAHA!
Bob........
 
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